Cách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho bé

Cách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho bé

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Giraffe

called

Flick

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Finished measurement: 17”/43cm

You will need :

Hook

3.5mm or hook size appropriate for your

yarn selection

Yarn

Main color: 100gms/283m/309yds of DK/light

worsted/8ply acrylic

Chin color: 30gms/85m/93yds DK/light

worsted/8ply acrylic

Hooves and horns color: 30gms/85m/93yards

of DK/light worsted/8ply acrylic

Gauge:

Gauge is not important for this project however; there should not be any ‘holes’ in your crochet fabric

Embroidery Floss

1x skein of embroidery floss to match chin color for use around top of eyelids and to attach eyelashes (2 strands used)

1x skein embroidery floss in complimentary contrast ‘spot’ color for use around spots and lower eyes (3 strands used) Choose a color that is a complimentary contrast to your spot colors (i.e orange embroidery floss on brown felt)

Beads 2x 3mm beads matching spot color

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You will need (cont.) :

Eyes

2x 30mm/1.1” safety eyes 1x pair of false eyelashes (available in the beauty department of your drug-store)

Felt

I x sheet white felt

Cut 2 x 35mm/1.3” inch white felt circles for under eyes

1 x sheet felt for spots and eyelids in your choice of color

*You can add as many or as few spots as you like

Other

Small scissors for cutting yarn and thread Embroidery needle

Darning needle 300gms/10oz of polyfill for stuffing

Templates

Eyelids – Cut 2

Spots – cut according to your preference

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Abbreviations

Ch: Chain – yarn over, pull up a loop

Dec: Decrease – insert hook into front loop of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn

over, pull through 2 loops Alternatively, (sc2tog) insert hook into next stitch, pull up

a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 3 loops Inc: Increase – 2 sc into same stitch

Sc: Single crochet – insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over,

pull through 2 loops

[] Work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

() Additional information and stitch counts for each round

* Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why don’t you specify a brand of yarn?

A: There are several reasons Firstly because

amigurumi does not need a specific brand of

yarn to achieve a good result; secondly, This

project has not been sponsored by a yarn

company, if you would like to know specific

details of the yarn and other items used for

this project, see the back of the book The

final reason is this: all crafters are

artisans; you are creatively free to choose

your favorite brand, fiber content and weight

of yarn to achieve YOUR desired effect I

would love to see your projects!

I encourage you to share images of your

finished projects on Ravelry and my Facebook

page www.facebook.com/thecrochetcase

www.facebook.com/MerakiCraftInc

Pattern support is always available on the

Facebook page Just send me a message

Q: That hook is too small for my yarn! Can I use a different hook size?

A: Of course! If your tension is particularly tight, or you are using a heavier weight yarn,

a larger hook size may be needed Use what you feel is appropriate to achieve the best results for YOU

Q: My stuffing is showing through the crochet fabric! How can I prevent that from happening?

A: To prevent the polyfill from showing through your work, use a slightly smaller hook than is necessary for the yarn you have selected Also, do NOT overstuff your amigurumi pieces For best results, fill FIRMLY, but not so much that you overstretch the crochet fabric

6

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Instructions

Important!

This project is worked in a continuous spiral

without joining at the end of each round To

mark the end of each round, use a piece of

contrasting colored yarn or a stitch marker

If you leave your yarn marker in, moving the

tail forward and back for each subsequent row,

take care not to crochet through the yarn It

can be easily removed when your item is

complete by simply pulling it out

To make filling your amigurumi easier, stuff

as you go Start stuffing with polyfill when

your item is a few inches in length

Some manipulation of stuffing may be needed to

ensure the correct shape is achieved

Body

Worked from the neck down

1 Using your 3.5mm hook and main color,

start with a magic ring, 6sc into ring (6)

2 Inc into each st around (12)

3 Working in blo for this row ONLY, sc

into each st around (12) Note: the back loops on this row are utilized to assist sewing the head to the neck

4 Sc into each st around (12)

5 Repeat row 4 (12)

6 *inc, sc into next 3 st’s, repeat from *

twice more (15)

7-21 Sc into each st around (15)

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Body (cont.)

22 Inc into next 3 st’s, sc into next 12

st’s (18)

23 [Sc into next st, 3sc into the next st]

3 times, sc into next 12 st’s (24)

24 [Sc into next 3 st’s, 3sc into next st]

25 [Sc into next 5 st’s, 3sc into next

st], 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s

(36)

26 [Sc into next 7 st’s, 3sc into the next

st] 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s (42)

27 [Sc into next 9 st’s, 3sc into next st]

st] 3 times, sc into next 12 st’s (54)

32 [sc into next 19 st’s, 3sc into next

st] 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s (84) 34-37 Sc into each st around (84)

Now without cutting yarn, we are going

to work on the belly

Belly

1 [Skip next 18 st’s, sc into next 3

st’s] 4 times (12)

2 Working only into stitches made on

previous round, dec x 6 (6) fasten off, stitch hole closed with whip stitch, pulling each stitch firmly as you go

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Legs

Each leg is made individually, each utilizing

18 skipped stitches from the previous section

Start each leg by attaching your main color

yarn with a slipstitch into the skipped stitch

closest to the belly section

There will be 4 small holes near the belly

that will need closing with a few whip

stitches Leave at least one yarn tail 8

inches in length at the beginning of any leg

to complete this step Do NOT stuff legs until

all four are made

1 Attach yarn with slst in first skipped

st of previous section, sc into same

st, sc into next 17 st’s (18)

20 [inc into next st, sc into next 5 st’s]

3 times (21)

3 times (24)

3 times (27)

3 times(30)

3 times (33)

35 [inc into next st, sc into next 10

st’s] 3 times, change to hooves and horn color on the last stitch (36)

36-40.Sc into each st around (36), fasten off,

leaving an 8” yarn tail for sewing After all four legs are made, its time to stuff legs firmly – this helps Flick to stand alone, then create the soles of the feet

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Soles

Make 4

1 Starting with hooves and horn color and

a magic ring, 6sc into ring (6)

2 inc into each st around (12)

3 [inc, sc into next st] 6 times (18)

4 [inc, sc into next 2 st’s] 6 times

(24)

(30)

(36)

Fasten off and weave in ends Using the yarn

tail from one leg, sew soles to legs with

whipstitch, adding a little more stuffing

before the soles are closed if necessary

Repeat this step on all legs

Tail

Cut 3 x pieces of hooves and horn color yarn, approximately 10cm/4” long and set aside

In main color, work an icord (tutorial here:

5cm/2”, when your tail is long enough, keep all 3 loops on your hook

Take your 3x yarn pieces, fold in half, pull yarn pieces through all 3 loops on your hook until you have a triple stranded loop large enough to loop over the ends (tutorial here

braid) Use a pet brush or comb to fluff the tail

Sew the tail onto the back side of the body, approximately 3 rows above the start of the legs

10

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Eyelids

Make 2

Cut a small hole in the center of the white

felt circle (for safety eyes)

Gather together your felt semicircles, your

white felt 1 & ¼ “ circles, and embroidery

threads Using 2 strands of thread matching

the chin color, whip stitch an eyelash and a

felt semicircle (flat side) together, being

careful to stitch BETWEEN each of the

eyelashes, and over the felt

Line up the white felt circle under the eyelid

(with lashes) and blanket stitch through both

pieces of felt (top section ONLY!) Change to

your contrasting thread and blanket stitch

over the bottom half of the eyelid, being

careful to place your stitches as evenly as

possible

Head

Now, the head is worked from the chin up, still working in a continuous spiral Stuff with polyfil as you go

1 With chin color, ch 13, sc into second

chain from your hook and in each of the next 9 ch, 3sc into last ch Now working on the opposite side of the chain, sc into next 10 ch, 3sc into last (26)

2 [Sc into next 10 st’s, inc into each of

the next 3 st’s] twice (32)

3 *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next

st, sc into next st] 3 times, repeat from * once more (38)

st, sc into next 2 st’s] 3 times, repeat from * once more (44)

st, sc into next 3 st’s] 3 times, repeat from * once more (50)

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Head (cont.)

st, sc into next 4 st’s] 3 times,

repeat from * once more (56)

7-9 Sc into each stitch around (56), change

to main color in last st of row 9

10 sc in each st around (56)

11 sc into next 20 st’s, dec, sc into next

26 st’s, dec, sc into last 6 st’s (54)

12 sc into each st around (54)

13 *sc into next 13 st’s, dec, [sc into

next 4 st’s, dec] twice, repeat from *

once more (48)

14-18 Sc into each st around (48),

Insert eyes (with eyelids) on the opposite

side of the head to your color changes -

between rows 17 and 18 and approximately 14

st’s apart,

19 [dec, sc into next 6 st’s] 6 times

(42)

(36)

(30)

Do not fasten off yet!

Ensure that your eyes are secure by making a few stitches behind your blanket stitch and through the crochet fabric Stitch a bead into the outer corner of each eye

12

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Horns

We are going to start the horns now Do not be

confused by the first row asking you to work 3

st’s before skipping stitches for the second

horn – this is done because of the way spiral

amigurumi twists, and we need the horns to be

side by side on top of the head rather than

lopsided towards the back Move your stitch

marker accordingly

First horn:

1 sc into next 3 st’s, skip 12 st’s, sc

into last 9 st’s (12)

2-5 sc into each st around (ignoring

skipped stitches – they are reserved

for the second horn) change to hooves

and horn color on last st of row 5

(12)

6 [inc into next st, sc into next st] 6

times (18)

7-8 sc into each st around (18)

9 [dec, sc into next st] 6 times (12)

10 [dec] 6 times (6) fasten off, stitch

hole closed with whip stitch, pulling each stitch firmly as you go

Second horn:

1 Attach main color with slst to first

skipped st in row 1 of first horn, sc into same st and in each of the next 11 st’s (12)

times (18)

9 [dec, sc into next st] 6 times (12)

10 [dec] 6 times (6) fasten off, stitch

hole closed with whip stitch, pulling each stitch firmly as you go

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Ears

Make 2

Still working in a continuous spiral, DO NOT

fill ears

1 starting with your main color and a

magic ring, 6 sc into ring (6)

times (9)

3 sc into each st around (9)

3 times (12)

5 inc into next st, sc into next 10 st’s,

inc into last st (14)

11 [dec, sc into next 2 st’s] six times

(18)

12-13 sc into each st around (18), fasten

off, leaving an 8 inch yarn tail for sewing to head – DO NOT stuff

Fold ear lengthways so that your row/stitch markers are the to folded edge of each ear When placing ears, markers should face to the ceiling Ears are placed so the top of the ear (where marker is closest to head) is approximately 2 rows below the start of the horn section and slightly towards the back of the head

14

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Assembly

There is not much assembly left now All you

need to do is attach the head to the neck and

add your spots! Place the neck on the opposite

side of - and in line with - the eyes Use the

exposed loops on the neck as a stitch guide,

whip stitch around the exposed loops, catching

a few stitches on the back of the head as you

go

Randomly place your felt spots on Flick’s

body, neck and legs and pin in place

When you are happy with your spot placement, sew the spots onto your giraffe using blanket stitch, ensuring you catch your crochet fabric and the felt with your needle and thread at the same time

For the nose, embroider two x’s over the color change line, directly below the eyes and slightly towards the center of the face

Congratulations on your new arrival!

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