There are eleven chapters: Fibres, Yarns, Fabrics, Textile Finishing, Fabric Descriptions, Leather and Fur, Clothing Manufacture, Organisation of Clothing Manufacture, Product Design, Pr
Trang 1H Eberle M Hornberger R Kupke A Moll
VERLAG EUROPA-LEHRMITTEL · Nourney, Vollmer GmbH & Co KG Düsselberger Straße 23 · 42781 Haan-Gruiten
Europa-Nr 62218
Clothing Technology ffrro om m ffiib brre e tto o ffa as sh hiio on n Fifth Edition
Trang 2Hermann Hermeling Dipl.-Ing (FH), Principal Frankfurt Marianne Hornberger Diplom-Modellistin, Lecturer Munich
Werner Ring Dipl.-Ing (FH), Director of Studies Metzingen
Editor and Team Leader: Roland Kilgus, Principal, Neckartenzlingen Fashion Drawings: Studio Salo-Döllel, Aufkirchen bei Erding Picture Processing: Design Department, Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel, Leinfelden-Echterdingen
This book was produced according to the latest German Industrial Standards (DIN-Blätter) Conformance is strictly limited
to the DIN-Blätter The DIN-Blätter are published by: Beuth-Verlag GmbH, Burggrafenstrasse 6, 10787 Berlin
Ninth German Edition 2007 Print 5 4 3 2 1
All prints of the same edition are interchangeable, excepting correction of printing errors
Fifth English Edition 2008 Translation: Cotton Technology International, 27 Winnington Road, Marple, Stockport SK6 6PD, England http://www.cottontech.co.uk
ISBN 978-3-8085-6225-3
All rights reserved This work is subject to copyright Utilisation for any purpose other than those legally permitted must be approved by the publisher in writing
© 2008 Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel, Nourney, Vollmer GmbH & Co KG, D-42781 Haan-Gruiten http://www.europa-lehrmittel.de
Cover design: Grafic & Sound, Klaus Gierden, D-50679 Köln, after an illustration by Barbara Spannagel, D-72768 Reutlingen Setting & layout: Satz+Layout Werkstatt Kluth GmbH, D-50374 Erftstadt
Printing: B.o.s.s Druck und Medien GmbH, D-47574 Goch
Trang 3This is a vocational book, directed primarily at students of the clothing industry: cutting, sewing, and assembly for fashion and mass markets However, it will also be found useful in courses for managers and technologists, and as a general reference work
A key feature of the book is its concise and compact design – a prerequisite for summarising such
a wide range of material in a single volume Each page is complete in itself Particular emphasis has been laid on providing a simple layout and straightforward language, which students will find easy to grasp Numerous colour diagrams are an effective aid to the comprehension of some of the more difficult topics These coloured illustrations are a particularly useful feature of the chap-ters on Fabric Descriptions and the History of Clothing
The book is organised largely according to the different technological sectors, but teaching re-quirements have also been kept in mind There are eleven chapters:
Fibres, Yarns, Fabrics, Textile Finishing, Fabric Descriptions, Leather and Fur, Clothing Manufacture, Organisation of Clothing Manufacture, Product Design, Product Groups, History of Clothing
The arrangement of topics conforms to the educational guidelines and the current curricula for courses in vocational technology in the German Federal States An important objective of this publication was to present the extensive body of knowledge as a coherent whole At all stages, account is taken of the latest scientific findings and the practical experience of the industry, as well
as any relevant DIN standards
Improvements for the 9th Edition: The sections on Textile Aftercare, Functional Clothing, Ecology,
Seam Types, Health & Safety, and Fusing have been rewritten or extended according to the latest technical developments Many illustrations have been enhanced by the use of colour or changed
to reflect current fashion trends
We would like to give special thanks to the companies and associations listed on page 304 for their assistance in the clarification of questions and for the provision of pictorial material We are especially indebted to Sonja Langer-Korschand Susanne Kolb-Wachtel(leather and fur), and Han-nes Döllel(fashion drawings) for their helpful suggestions
Many clothing companies today employ offshore manufacturing Therefore, it is useful to note that “Fachwissen Bekleidung” has been translated into English (“Clothing Technology”) and from there into several other European languages Maybe this can provide some stimulus to intra- and extra-European communication via the language of technology The new generation will need competence in both language and technology to succeed in an era of global market competition
We would welcome any suggestions for improving or supplementing the material in this book
“Fachwissen Bekleidung” is now in its ninth edition and has been a firm favourite in the German-speaking area of Europe since it first appeared in 1989 So far as we are aware, the book is uni-que in its scope and presentation, so it was perhaps natural that a demand should arise for an English-language version
Although this English edition follows quite faithfully the general content and layout of the Ger-man, it is not always a precise translation There are several instances in the original where the treatment of the subject matter naturally has a distinctively central-European bias In the English,
an attempt has been made to present a more international perspective Wherever possible, ISO
or ASTM standards have been referenced rather than DIN For an international readership, there
is always the problem of whether to use British or North American terminology For this edition, wherever there is a conflict between the British and American traditions, the British has generally been selected, although the American is often acknowledged and occasionally preferred The German approach to Work Measurement has been retained, as a valid and comprehensive ex-ample of the technique Sections 9.6 to 9.9 of Product Design have been completely rewritten for the English edition
Stockport, Autumn 2008 Allan Heap & Jill Stevens
Cotton Technology International
Preface 9th German Edition
Preface 5th English Edition
Trang 41 Fibres 6
1.1 Overview 6
1.2 Natural Fibres 8
1.2.1 Cotton 8
1.2.2 Flax 12
1.2.3 Other Vegetable Fibres 15
1.2.4 Wool 16
1.2.5 Hair Fibres 20
1.2.6 Silk 21
1.3 Man-made Fibres 25
1.3.1 Composition of Textile Fibres 25
1.3.2 Fibre-forming Materials 26
1.3.3 Spinning Man-made Fibres 27
1.3.4 Natural Polymer Fibres 28
1.3.5 Viscose, Modal 29
1.3.6 Lyocell 31
1.3.7 Cupro, Acetate, Triacetate 32
1.3.8 Synthetic Polymer Fibres 33
1.3.9 Polyamide, Nylon 34
1.3.10 Polyester 36
1.3.11 Acrylic, Modacrylic 38
1.3.12 Elastane, Fluoro, Chloro, Olefin, Vinylal 39
1.3.13 Glass, Carbon, Metal 40
1.4 Fibre Properties, Fibre Identification 41
1.5 Fibre Blending 44
1.6 Textile Labelling 45
1.7 Textile Aftercare 46
1.8 Functions of Clothing 48
1.8.1 Basic Functions and Requirements 48
1.8.2 Clothing Physiology 49
1.8.3 Functional Textiles 50
1.9 Ecology and the Textile Pipeline 55
2 Yarns 58
2.1 Fundamentals 58
2.2 Spinning Systems 60
2.2.1 Overview 60
2.2.2 Wool Spinning 60
2.2.3 Cotton Spinning 62
2.2.4 Other Spinning Systems 63
2.3 Folded Yarns, Plied Yarns 64
2.4 Fancy Yarns 65
2.5 Textured Yarns 66
2.6 Review of Yarn Types 67
2.7 Yarn Numbering 68
2.8 Yarn Properties 70
2.9 Sewing Threads 70
3 Textile Fabrics 71
3.1 Overview 71
3.2 Woven Fabrics 71
3.2.1 Woven Fabric Manufacture 71
3.2.2 Principles of Cloth Construction 74
3.2.3 Basic Weaves and Variations 75
3.2.4 Colour Woven Fabrics 79
3.2.5 Crêpe Fabrics 80
3.2.6 Fabrics with Three Yarn Systems 81
3.2.7 Fabrics with Four or More Yarn Systems 83
3.2.8 Piqué Fabrics 84
3.3 Knitted Fabrics 85
3.3.1 Classification of Knitted Fabrics 85
3.3.2 Weft Knitted Fabrics 86
3.3.3 Warp Knitted Fabrics 92
3.4 Special Fabrics 94
3.4.1 Open-work Fabrics 94
3.4.2 Nonwoven Fabrics 95
3.4.3 Stitch-bonded and Tufted Fabrics 97
3.5 Comparison of Textile Fabrics 98
4 Dyeing and Finishing 99
4.1 Fundamentals 99
4.2 Preparation 100
4.3 Coloration 101
4.3.1 Dyeing 101
4.3.2 Dyestuffs, Colour Fastness 102
4.3.3 Printing 103
4.4 Intermediate Processes 105
4.5 Finishing 106
4.5.1 Mechanical Finishing 106
4.5.2 Chemical Finishing 108
4.6 Coating and Lamination 109
5 Fabric Descriptions 110
5.1 Fabric Inspection 110
5.2 Commercial Names of Fabrics 111
5.3 Accessories, Trimmings 131
5.3.1 Interlinings 131
5.3.2 Linings 132
5.3.3 Ribbons and Decorations 133
5.3.4 Fastenings 134
6 Leather and Fur 135
6.1 Leather Manufacture 135
6.2 Leather Types 137
6.3 Leather Garment Manufacture 138
6.4 Fur Types 139
6.5 Pelt Preparation 140
6.6 Pelt Finishing 141
6.7 From Pelt to Fur Clothing 141
7 Clothing Manufacture 144
7.1 Equipment and Methods for Design and Cutting 144 7.1.1 Design, Pattern Construction 144
7.1.2 Pattern Grading 145
7.1.3 Making a Lay Plan 147
7.1.4 Types of Lay Plan 149
7.1.5 Spreading 150
7.1.6 Cutting 152
7.1.7 Preparation for Sewing 153
7.1.8 Drawing and Measuring Tools 154
7.1.9 Hand Sewing Tools 155
7.1.10 Cutting Tools 156
Contents
Trang 52
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
7.2 Equipment and Methods for Design
and Cutting 158
7.2.1 Types of Sewing Machine 158
7.2.2 Sewing Machines, Overview 159
7.2.3 Construction of a Sewing Machine 160
7.2.4 Moving Parts of a Sewing Machine 161
7.2.5 Sewing Machine Needles 162
7.2.6 Feeding Systems 164
7.2.7 Presser Feet and Fabric Guides 166
7.2.8 Shuttles, Hooks and Loopers 168
7.2.9 Stitch Types 169
7.2.10 Lockstitch 170
7.2.11 Chain Stitch 172
7.2.12 Multi-thread Chain Stitch 173
7.2.13 Overedge Chain Stitch 174
7.2.14 Flat Seam Stitches, Covering Stitches 176
7.2.15 Blind Stitching 177
7.2.16 Seam Types 178
7.2.17 Sewing Machine Drives 183
7.2.18 Ancillary Mechanisms for High-speed Sewing Machines 184
7.2.19 Automatic Sewing Machines 185
7.2.20 Automated Sewing Equipment 186
7.2.21 Welded Seams, Seam Sealing 187
7.3 Problems in Sewing 188
7.3.1 Seam Puckering 188
7.3.2 Fabric Damage, Sewing Faults 189
7.4 Equipment and Methods for Pressing and Fusing 190 7.4.1 Pressing 190
7.4.2 Fusing 195
7.5 Health and Safety 197
8 Organisation of Clothing Manufacture 202
8.1 Overview 202
8.2 Material Flow 203
8.3 Industry Sectors and Product Groups 204
8.4 Garment Production Systems 205
8.5 Method Study 206
8.6 Systems and Processes 209
8.7 Company Structure and Organisation 210
8.8 Organisational Structure 211
8.9 Production Management 212
8.10 Work Measurement 215
8.11 Quality Assurance 218
8.12 Use of Computers 220
9 Product Design 223
9.1 Target Groups and Quality Levels 223
9.2 Planning a Collection 224
9.3 Developing a Collection 225
9.4 Elements of Clothing Design 226
9.5 Design Influences 227
9.6 Proportion 228
9.7 Control Dimensions 229
9.8 Body Types, Size Intervals 230
9.9 Size Charts, Size Codes 231
10 Product Groups 232
10.1 Underwear, Nightwear 232
10.2 Foundation Garments, Swimwear 234
10.3 Babywear, Childrenswear 235
10.4 Men’s Shirts 236
10.5 Workwear, Career Apparel 237
10.6 Skirts 238
10.7 Blouses 240
10.8 Dresses 241
10.9 Knitted Outerwear 242
10.10 Trousers 243
10.11 Jackets 244
10.12 Coats 245
10.13 Women's Outfits 246
10.14 Men's Outfits 247
10.15 Formal Dress 248
10.16 Sport and Leisure Clothing 249
10.17 Accessories 252
11 History of Clothing 254
11.1 Chronological Summary 254
11.2 Fashion 255
11.3 Ancient Egypt 256
11.4 Ancient Greece 258
11.5 Ancient Rome 260
11.6 Germanic Prehistory and Early Times 262
11.7 Byzantine Middle Ages 264
11.8 Romanesque 266
11.9 Gothic 268
11.10 Renaissance 271
11.11 Baroque 274
11.12 Rococo 276
11.13 Neo-classicism: English Fashion, Directoire and Empire 278
11.14 Neo-classicism: Biedermeier 280
11.15 Romanticism, Neo-rococo, and the Victorian Era 282
11.16 Belle Époque, Reform, Art Nouveau 284
11.17 The Twenties 286
11.18 The Thirties 288
11.19 The Forties 289
11.20 The Fifties 290
11.21 The Sixties 291
11.22 The Seventies 292
11.23 The Eighties 293
11.24 The Nineties 294
11.25 The New Millennium 295
11.26 Glossary of Special Terms 296
Bibliography 298
Index of Technical Terms 299
Acknowledgements 304
Trang 6protein macromolecule
fibrillar bundles
bilateral structure fibrils
scales
spindle
cells
1 Fibres
1.2 Natural Fibres
1.2.4 Animal Fibres: Wool (2)
Classification of Wool
There are hundreds of different types and breeds of sheep They are classified according to their wool into five basic types: Fine, Medium, Crossbred, Long, and Coarse
Construction of the Wool Fibre The wool fibre is made of protein molecules (keratin) It is rather similar to
human hair The long-chain protein molecules are formed into fibrils These combine into fibrillar bundles which form the mass of the spindle cells This construction gives the wool fibre an extraordinary elasticity The bulk of the fibre is made from two separate components These have different chemical constitutions, and they wind in a spiral around each other (bilateral structure) Moisture and temperature have different effects upon the two components, which swell to different extents, causing changes in the overall fibre shape
It is the bilateral structure which causes the fibres to be crimped; finer fibres develop more crimp Heat and moisture can relax bonds between the protein chains The bonds are re-formed during cooling and drying, and this is the source of the good smoothing and shaping properties of wool
Wool absorbs moisture (is hygroscopic) It can absorb about 1/3of its mass of water vapour without feeling wet The moisture is released only slowly In spite of the strong affinity for water of the fibre interior, its surface is water repellent (hydrophobic) because it is covered by an extremely thin skin, the epicuticle This skin causes liquid water to roll up into droplets whilst allowing the passage of water vapour
The scales on the fibre surfaces are capable of hooking onto one another to
cause felting, under the influence of water, heat, and mechanical action
1: Model of the wool fibre
1) 1 µm = 1 millionth of a metre = 10¯ 6 m
Fine
Merino, Rambouillet finest wools, 15 23 µm1)
50 … 120 mm
highly crimped Australia, South Africa, ex USSR fine outerwear, knitted and woven, shawls, socks
Medium, Crossbred
Southdown, Corriedale medium fine, 24 30 µm
120 … 150 mm
normal crimp Argentina, Uruguay heavier, more robust, sporting clothing
Long, Coarse
Lincoln, Romney, Karakul coarse, over 30 µm
over 150 mm
low crimp, straight New Zealand, Great Britain carpets, traditional furniture coverings
Wool Type
Breed (examples)
Fineness,
Diameter
Length
Crimp, Waviness
Sources (examples)
Applications
Apart from its fineness, length, crimp, and breed, wool can also be classified according to:
• Shearing: Lambswool is from the first shearing, after six months, whilst Yearling wool is from the first or second shear after 10-12 months They are fine, soft, not very strong, with fine tips Six-month, Eight-month, Twelve-month wools are from
sheep shorn at intervals of 6, 8 or 12 months
• Source: Australian, New Zealand, etc Cape wool is from South Africa; Shetland is typical coarse wool from Scotland.
• Extraction: Virgin wool is from living, healthy sheep or lambs Dead wool, Fallen wool is from sheep that have died from natural causes Skin wool has been taken from the skins of slaughtered sheep.
• Spinning: Worsted wool is usually fine Merino, spun into fine, smooth, uniform, combed yarns The very finest and most ex-pensive wools are made into extra-fine combed yarns designated as super 100s to super 200s Woollens are heavier, more voluminous yarns prepared on the woollen spinning system Carpet wool is long, coarse wools for carpet yarns.
• Recycling: Recovered Wool is wool that has been recovered mechanically by teasing apart production waste and
second-hand clothing Recovered wool is damaged and is of low quality
Trang 71 Fibres
1.9 Ecology and the Textile Pipeline (3)
There is a demand from some consumer groups that textile labels should give information about any potentially harmful sub-stances which may be contained in the product In various countries, governmental or private organisations have developed sets of criteria which can be embodied in a labelling scheme to satisfy these demands Typically, such labels guarantee that:
• no potentially carcinogenic dyestuffs have been used
• heavy metals are present in such small quantities that their concentration, when dissolved in perspiration, would be lower than the permitted levels for drinking water
• pesticides are present in concentrations lower than those permitted for foodstuffs
• formaldehyde shall not exceed a certain concentration
• the pH value is neutral or slightly acid (like human skin)
• textiles intended for babies and small children shall not release any dyestuff on contact with saliva
Manufacturers or distributors of textile products can apply to these organisations for the right to use promotional and marketing materials (labels, hang tags etc.) subject to their products being included in a stringent testing regime
Eco-labelling
Eco-Tex Standard 100 is a label
of the Hohenstein Test Institute, in Germany It guarantees that the concentrations of potentially harmful chemicals shall not be greater than certain published values Random samples are submitted to laboratory testing in one of a number of associated institutes
The Eco-Tex Standard 1000
guarantees that the whole manufacturing chain, including working conditions, effluent disposal, environmental management, storage and transportation, all meet certain social and ecological standards
The Eco-Tex Standard 100 plus label guarantees that all
products and operations of a given manufacturer, conform
to the requirements of both the Eco-Tex 100 and 1000 standards
Ecolog is a trademark of a
German company that specialises in weatherproof clothing They have developed garments in which every component – fabrics, linings, membranes, zippers, padding, buttons – is made from pure polyester This means that at the end of its life, the garment can be reduced to polyester chips for re-use, e.g in bottles
GREEN-COTTON is a trademark
of a Danish textile company specialising in environmentally friendly and socially responsible production The cotton is either certified “organic” or “sustainable”
It is hand-picked and contains
no pesticide residues The latest technology is used at all stages
of manufacture to minimise environmental impacts
NATURTEXTIL is a label of a
German industry association It embodies strict ecological and social requirements throughout the manufacturing chain Only natural fibres or animal products that have been produced under strictly organic regimes are allowed Organic certification is required at all stages
designation devised by a German research institute, based on a specific series of laboratory tests based on challenging human cells with an extract from the textile to give an assessment of
“skin tolerance”
The EU Flower is a symbol
created and supported by the European Union Any manufacturer may apply to use the symbol to identify products that comply with strict eco-logical and performance criteria The label is overseen, and the products are tested, by independent organisations such
as Ecolabelling Denmark
Trang 82 Yarns
2.5 Textured Yarns Texturing
Important Texturing Processes
Applications for Textured Yarns Types of Textured Yarns
Flat continuous filament yarns made from thermoplastic (heat-formable) materials can be made permanently bulky by various processes This is called texturing and it results in:
• increased volume • better thermal insulation due to the enclosed air
• increased extensibility and elasticity • higher vapour permeability and moisture transport
• lower lustre • softer and more comfortable fabrics
Whatever the texturing process used, textured yarns can be classified into three groups:
Stretch yarns: Highly elastic yarns with a crimp extension of 150 to 300%.
Stabilised yarns: Yarns which have been given an additional setting treatment to reduce their elasticity and crimp extension Bulked yarns: Voluminous yarns with crimps and loops having normal extensibility and elasticity The term bulked yarn is often
used generally to cover all continuous filament textured yarns and bulked staple fibre yarns
High-bulk yarns
Man-made staple fibres can also be made into bulky, voluminous yarns Such high-bulk yarns are usually made by blending acrylic fibres of high and low potential shrinkage During a subsequent heat treatment, the high-shrinkage fibres contract causing the other fibres to buckle A similar effect can be obtained by using bicomponent fibres
Stockings and tights (panty hose), swimwear, sportswear, outerwear, underwear, carpets, sewing and overedge stitching threads for extensible fabrics
The yarn is drawn through a heated zone whilst a pre-determined, high level of false twist is inserted followed
by cooling and untwisting The heat softens the filaments and the deformation imparted by the twist is
permanent-ly set during cooling
This is the most economical, and therefore the most common process
The yarn is fed through a turbulent air stream, created by
a jet Usually the air is cold but occasionally hot air or steam may be used The air jet causes entangled loops to
be formed in the filaments
The resulting textured yarn is very bulky with permanent crimps and loops Can be used for non-thermoplastic filaments
The yarn is fed into a heated chamber where it is com-pressed The zigzag deformations are permanently set by subsequent cooling The filaments can no longer lie close together so the yarn is bulky
The yarn is knitted into a tube on a circular knitting machine The knitted fabric is heat set and then unravelled The shape of the knitted loops is set into the yarn, which develops a bouclé (crinkle yarn) appearance
False-twist texturing
Air-jet texturing
Stuffer-box texturing
Knit-deknit texturing
filaments feed rolls heating zone
twister delivery rolls
yarn feed
delivery rolls
air jet entanglement zone
delivery rolls
heated stuffer box
knitting setting unravelling
Trang 93 Textile Fabrics
3.3 Knitted Fabrics 3.3.3 Warp Knitted Fabrics (2)
Multiple Guide Bar Fabrics
For most warp knitted fabrics, the basic lapping structures are used in combination This means that more than one warp sheet and guide bar must be used
Warp knitted fabrics have only a limited range of applications in apparel fabrics The most important are: leisure and swimwear, foundation and lingerie, extensible linings, laces, ribbons and trimmings
In household textiles, warp knits are used for curtains, bed clothing and furnishings The widest use of warp knits is in technical fabrics
Locknit
Locknit (charmeuse) is a combination
of tricot and 2××1 plain stitches On one side the fabric displays distinct wales of small face loops; the other side shows the zigzag formation of the underlaps
It is made from filament yarns which give the characteristic lustre Applications:
linings, interlinings, lingerie (Figures 1,
2, 3).
Warp Knitted Terry
This is made with an extra warp sheet
of pile yarns which are caused to form loops, bound into a ground fabric Applications include furnishings and
bed sheets (Figure 4).
Warp Knitted Plush, Velour
In this case, the pile loops are cut to give a fleecy or velvet-like surface Applications include beach, leisure and
sportswear, ladies outerwear (Figure 5).
Raschel Net
Nowadays, net fabric is almost always made on raschel machines It is a com-bination of pillar and tricot stitches Raschel net is most popular in bridal
wear (Figure 6).
Raschel Lace
Raschel lace fabrics are often made on
a base of net fabric with a pattern formed from inlay yarns They are used for foundation and lingerie, bridal and
formal wear, and as trimmings (Figure 7).
6: Raschel net 7: Raschel lace
4: Warp knitted terry 5: Warp knitted plush, velour
2: Locknit, face 3: Locknit, back
1: Locknit, schematic
Trang 104 Dyeing and Finishing
4.6 Coating and Lamination Coating
Lamination
Coating is the application of a layer of natural or synthetic polymer to one side of the fabric, followed by fixation in a curing oven
The polymer film can be applied directly to the fabric (Figure 1) However, if the fabric is an open one, or the material to be
applied has a low viscosity, the liquid will first be applied to a carrier paper and then transferred from there to the target
fabric (Figure 2).
The coating imparts new properties to the fabric, which are a combination of the original material (woven, knitted, non-woven) and the coating (polyurethane, polyvinylchloride)
Coated textiles (Figures 3 and 4) have a wide range of uses
from clothing to technical fabrics In clothing uses, it is advantageous if the coating is permeable to air and moisture vapour
Applications
• sporting, protective, working clothing;
• highly-visible (fluorescent) clothing;
• shoe uppers, leather cloth;
• handbags and luggage;
• furniture and automobile seat coverings;
• bookbinding, maps, albums;
• window blinds, shower curtains, table covers;
• floor and wall coverings;
• conveyor belts, tarpaulins, awnings, air-supported structures, inflatable dinghies, textile roofing, etc
Lamination is the superimposition and bonding of two or more fabrics, or a fabric with paper, film, or foam
The bonding can be achieved with an adhesive (Figure 5) or
by heat (Figure 6), whereby a polymer film or foam is melted
onto the surface of one fabric and then the other fabric is
pressed onto it (Figure 7).
5: Adhesive lamination
polymer
blade
fabric
fabric
1: Principle of direct coating
polymer blade
fabric curing chamber
2: Principle of indirect coating
polymer
paper
curing chamber
paper collection fabric
3: Coated fabric
4: Protective clothing
6: Foam lamination
foam
fabric flame heating
7: Foam laminated fabric