Workmanship and handling defects: These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the cutting and sewing section.. Seam Puckering Causes: This
Trang 1Garment Faults
Trang 2Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008
13th Batch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com
Blog : www Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)
Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Banglade sh
Prepared By :
©right
Trang 3Garment defects:
Any abnormality in the Garment that hinders its acceptability by the consumer ,is called Garment defect These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are caused by the sewing lines
Garment defects
Trang 4Garment defects can be separated into three categories:
1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines E.g running shade, selvedge-to-selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub , hairiness etc
2 Workmanship and handling defects:
These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the cutting and sewing section Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect workmanship
3 Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
Garment defect categories
Trang 51. Machine feed mechanism must be better quality
2. Sewing thread must be selected properly
3. Thread tension must be kept in limit
Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance
Seam Puckering
Causes: This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric
during sewing , improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection ,
dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc
Trang 6Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam
Remedies:
1. Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped
2. Placing of needle properly
3. The tension of thread should be adjusted
4. Needle size & thread size must be adjusted
5. The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately
Drop stitch/Skipped stitch
Causes: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or
machine usage
Trang 7Wavy/staggered stitching: Stitches are not straight.
Remedies:
1. Needle to be changed
2. Needle size and thread size should be changed
3. Feed mechanism to be changed
Causes: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces, faulty feed
mechanism, needle deflection or wrong needle etc
Wavy/staggered stitching
Trang 8Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread.
Remedies:
1. Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook
2. Proper handling of the parts of garments
Causes:
This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments , improper
setting and timing between needle and looper or hook etc
Open seam or broken seam
Trang 9Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread.
Remedies:
1. Proper machine usage
2. proper trimming
Broken Stitch
Causes: It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage
Trang 10Uncut/ loose thread: Extra thread or loose thread on seam line
Remedies:
1. Garments finishing should be checked properly
Uncut/ loose thread
Causes: It appears due to improper trimming or finishing
Trang 11Holes: Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the other side.
Remedy:
Better inspection of fabric and cut piece Ensure that fabric and cut pieces that are not up to standard are not put into line and production is wasted Replace not standard cut pieces with usable ones before input
Cause:
Holes can come from fabric or it could be caused by the production side,
either by improper trimming or broken needle puncturing the fabric
Holes
Trang 12Shading Variations within different parts: Seams appear to be lighter or darker than the other seams surrounding it.
Remedies: After cutting the garment parts must be kept in proper bundle with number
Causes: It arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering
Shading Variations within different parts
Trang 13Seams not aligned at crossing of seams: Seams are not lined up at intersection of seams.
Remedy: When these defects starts to appear at close to 2% or 5 pieces, the production must be informed and the operator must re-trained in the proper usage of the machine
Seams not aligned at crossing of seams
Cause: Defects generally come about either from improper
handling of the cut piece
Trang 14Others: Misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding ,
improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section
Others
Trang 15Sizing defects:
(Difference in measurement of various parts of garments), wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurement discrepancy- all these problems come from pattern section
Poor ironing:
if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment
misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section
Others
Trang 16Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims
Defects are given below:
1. Unmatched color of thread
2. Broken button and zipper tape
3. Short zippers
4. Faulty zippers
5. Wrong labels
6. Improper size of the labels
7. Printing mistake of labels and cartons
8. Broken poly bag
9. Wrong hanger
10.Improper embroideries and prints Etc
Remedy:
This type of defects occurred due to unawareness That is why during production the garments should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims &accessories must be given as like as artwork
Trims , accessories and embellishment defects:
Trang 173 Trims, accessories and embellishment defects :
These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print , embroidery
designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of trims.
Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects.
1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of defects (0%).
2 Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%) depending on buyers requirements
3 Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%) depending on buyers requirements
Trims , accessories and embellishment defects: