PART-B CHAPTER-1 KNITTING SECTION This chapter begins with the fundamentals of knitting, then it goes with different types of fabrics produced in the Cotton Club and machines used fo
Trang 1INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF
COTTON CLUB (BD) LTD.
Trang 2PART-A
INTRODUCTION
Bangladesh is one of the leading readymade garments exporters of the world Every year Bangladesh exports more than one third of the total garments requirement of the RMG market of the world Every year Bangladesh earns more than 76% of its foreign currency from this sector That is why the study of garments technology does deserve well practical practice So our university provides 6 weeks industrial training in a
RMG factory As a student of garment technology I have completed this industrial training in COTTON CLUB
(BD) LTD From garments making to decorating garments with embroidery is a truly Exclusive fashion house
that deals with lots of stuff like fabric quality, garments quality, dyeing quality, washing quality The Garments Division has the capability to offer a complete product range for the 100% export to EU & USA market The vision of the Garment Division is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality value added garments from Bangladesh With an urge to developing local human resource, the Garments Division has the potential to make an important contribution to the nation’s growing RMG export sector to make it more competitive
Trang 3Chapter One
Training Background
This chapter begins with explaining the purpose of the report; followed by its scope and limitations It ends by mentioning the students’ responsibilities in training program and institution partnership with the company
Background Training Program
After successfully completing the B.Sc in Textile Engineering course from Primeasia University, every student have to take part in 42 days Industrial Attachment Training Program For this training program the students are divided into several groups and the groups of students are sent to the large and famous Textile Industries for practical training
Purpose
The Industrial Attachment program fulfills part of the requirement in pursuing the degree of Bachelor of Applied Science (B.Sc in Textile Engineering) in Primeasia University This report serves to summaries the activities and experiences gained with Cotton Club (BD) Ltd
Scope and Limitations
During the industrial attachment training, we, a group of two students of Primeasia University & other
University were involved in training through the whole factory This report will only cover parts of the
project, which were done by the students The experience gained during the attachment had helped the students to fulfill the objectives of the attachment However, due to unforeseen circumstances, the commencement of the attachment was delayed This resulted in a shortage of time for the completion of the project Therefore, this report will be limited to the stages of implementation prior to the date of reporting Further work and research that done after the date of reporting is not described fully in this report The emphasis of this report will be on the research done by the students, in addition to the experience that they gained during the attachment Frequent references will be made with regards to these concepts
Students’ Responsibilities
With the four years education in the institution students gain much theoretical knowledge For the fulfillment
of B.sc in Textile Engineering course the Industrial Attachment Training program plays a vital role It gives the students a lot of practical knowledge and introduces with the factory environment In this training program the students has much responsibilities They have to learn about all the process going on in the factory, all the machineries used, faults and remedies in the different sections, administrations, utilities, costing of the products Finally students have to make a report on whole training program
Institution Partnerships
Cotton Club (BD) Ltd has an extensive network of relationships with selected departments in leading academic institutions in Bangladesh, and invests considerable resources to support them They are important to Primeasia University because it shares with the academic community a concern to foster innovative research, and to develop the skills and experience of the people involved in its generation and transfer Over the past 10
years CCL has built up a portfolio of programs to encourage collaboration with universities across a broad spectrum of mutually beneficial activities Every year CCL hosts the students of PAU who work as internee to
gain industrial experience for their academic qualifications It is hoped that this relationship will be increased day by day
Trang 4Chapter Two
Company Details
This chapter will give a brief introduction on the history of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd., the attached company, Factory profile, No of Employers and workers, their responsibilities, Organogram of different sections of the factory and Head office, types of production and marketing, etc
Trang 5History of Cotton Club Ltd
Cotton Club Ltd established in the year 2006, the quality standards and is engaged in manufacturing of all kinds of knitted garments Under the profound guidance of their mentor Haji Abdul Majid Mondol (Chairman
of Mondol Group, established in 1991), their company has gained an immense success and has earned goodwill with twenty years of experience in the garments industries The Chairman is guiding their team with his wide experience and skill Their product is made using top quality yarn that is procured from reliable sources across world They make use of world class in-house infrastructure and modern machines as well as simple hand tools that helps in producing high quality fabric in large volumes and varieties They are dedicated to offer timely delivery of goods and services at affordable prices
Mission
Cotton Club Ltd mission is to enrich the quality of life of people through responsible application of knowledge, skills and technology Cotton Club Ltd is committed to the pursuit of excellence through world-class products, innovative processes and empowered employees to provide the highest level of satisfaction to its customers
Trang 6General Information of Factory:
Board of Directors of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd
Trang 7Man Power
Cotton Club (BD) Ltd Staffs of all section’s
Trang 8Cotton Club (BD) Ltd Workers of all section:
Total Manpower of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd
Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd Staffs of all section’s
Trang 9Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd Workers of all section:
Total Manpower of Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd
Grand Total:
Trang 10Organogram of all division:
Organogram of Head Office:
Trang 11ORGANOGRAM OF ADMIN AND PRODUCTION:
Trang 12ORGANOGRAM OF GARMENTS DIVISION:
Trang 13ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING DIVISION:
Trang 14ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING DIVISION:
Trang 15Duties and Responsibilities of Different Working Personnel:
Trang 18Machine Details in all sections:
Knitting Machines:
Dyeing Machines:
Trang 19Sewing, Cutting and Finishing Machines:
Trang 20Embroidery and Printing Machinery:
Power/ Utility:
Production Related Information:
Trang 21Buyer and Exporting Country:
Certificate Gain:
Bank Details:
Trang 22Sister Concerns of Mondol Group:
Tropical Knit Composite Ltd
Trang 23PART-B
CHAPTER-1
KNITTING SECTION
This chapter begins with the fundamentals of knitting, then it goes with
different types of fabrics produced in the Cotton Club and machines used
for preparation of those and specification, manufacturing country and uses Here different knitting terms, notation of fabric with cam arrangement are briefly discussed This chapter ends with the faults of knitting and their remedie
Definition of Knitting Technology:
Weaving and knitting is different for the interlacing techniques of yarn In weaving it needs warp and weft yarn for produce woven fabric but in knitting, fabrics are produced from a series of yarn
in warp or weft directions Knitting techniques can be defined as follow
The processes in which fabrics are produced by set of connect loops from a series of yarns in warp or weft direction is defined as knitting Different knitting machines are use to perform this techniques
Types of Knitted Fabrics:
Mainly two types of knitted fabrics are produced They are as follow:
Warp knitted fabrics:
In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from different thread and the number of thread used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the numbers of loops in horizontal row
Weft knitted fabrics:
A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread runs in horizontal direction The fabric structure is different from one from another Weft knitted fabrics are widely use
Trang 24Knitted Fabrics Produced in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.:
The following types of fabrics are generally produced in Cotton Club
1 Single Jersey
a) Plain Single Jersey
b) Single Jersey with Lycra
Trang 25Different Types Knitted Fabric:
Trang 26Process Flow Chart of Knitting:
Fabric manufacturing methods are divided into three types; they are as weaving, knitting and non-weaving Yarns use to produce different types of fabric Knitted fabrics are one of them Knitting technology is one of the interesting methods for producing knitted fabrics Knitted fabrics are produced as the following flow chart
Yarn in cone form
↓ Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
↓ Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip tape positive arrangement and tension device
↓ Knitting
↓ Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
↓ Inspection
↓ Numbering Knitted fabrics have world wide popularity Different designed knitted fabrics are produced by this above techniques
Classification of Knitting Machine:
Knitting machines are use to produce knit fabric Knitted fabrics are produced by the interlocking
of one or more yarns through a series of loops by the use of hooked needle Knitted fabrics are differing from one to another depending on their fabric design Specific fabrics are produced from specific knitting machine
Knitting machines are classified as follows:
A Weft Knitting Machine
1 Flat Bar Knitting Machine
3 Circular Knitting machine
a) Revolving Cylinder; Sinker Top or Open Top Single Jersey Knitting Machine
b) Revolving Cylinder; Cylinder and Dial Double Jersey Knitting Machine
4 Circular Bearded Single
a) Sinker Wheel Knitting Machine
b) Loop Wheel Knitting Machine
B Warp Knitting Machine
a) Rachel Knitting Machine
b) Tricot Knitting Machine
In modern times knit fabrics have a large verity Verities type of knit fabrics is the demand of modern time Such types of fabrics are produced in the knitting mill
Trang 27Profile of Knitting Machines of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd
Circular Machine (Single Jersey)
Sl.No Machine
Descriptio
n
M/C Dia
Trang 28Sl.No Machine
Descriptio
n
M/C Dia
26‖ 24 4 LYCRA 78 1 FUKAHARA JAPAN
Circular Machine (Rib/Interlock)
Sl.No Machine
Description
M/C Dia
Gauge Truck
No Attach Feeder Qty Brand Origin
1 RIB/INTERLOCK 24‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 48 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
2 RIB/INTERLOCK 26‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 52 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
3 RIB/INTERLOCK 28‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 56 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
4 RIB/INTERLOCK 30‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 60 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
5 RIB/INTERLOCK 32‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 64 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
6 RIB/INTERLOCK 34‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 68 2 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
7 RIB/INTERLOCK 36‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 72 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
8 RIB/INTERLOCK 38‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 76 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
9 RIB/INTERLOCK 40‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 80 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
10 RIB/INTERLOCK 42‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 84 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
11 RIB/INTERLOCK 44‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 88 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
Trang 29Different Parts of Knitting Machine & Functions of Machine Parts
Knitting machines are mainly two types; they are circular knitting machine and flat bed knitting machine This two types are hugely use in knitting machine A knitting machine is composed of lots of parts Every parts of a machine are important for run the machine smoothly Every part has a specific function during operation
Different knitting machine parts and their functions are given below:
1 Creel: Creel is called the holder of cone Cone is placed in a creel for feeding the yarn to the
feeder
2 Feeder: Yarn is feed through the feeder No of feeder is depends on the design of the fabric
3 VDQ Pulley: G.S.M of the knit fabric is controlled by VDQ pulley VDQ pulley is used for
controlling the stitch length of the fabric
4 Guide: Guide is called the supporting element Guide is used to guide the yarn
5 Sensor: Sensor is an automatic controlling system When a yarn pass through this sensor
than if any yarn break down or any problem occur than it automatically stop by this sensoring system
6 Cylinder: Cylinder is the main parts of a knitting machine Adjustment of a cylinder is
important Cylinder carries needle, sinker, cam and many more
7 Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller Knit fabrics may
be tube or open type Spreader is adjusted as need
8 Fixation Feeder: This type of feeder is used in electrical auto striper knitting machine to feed
the yarn at specific finger
Trang 309 Rethom: Rethom is used in electrical auto stripper knitting machine
10 Needle:
of knitted loops but all of them can be grouped in three main needle types:
In Cotton Club (BD) Ltd., Latch Needles are used for construction of weft knitted fabrics
Main Parts of Latch Needle:
Trang 3111 Needle Bed:
The needles are disposed in the slots of needle beds which can be flat or circular (dial and cylinder) A flat needle bed consists of a steel plate with grooves In the grooves the latch
needles are inserted in such a way that their butts protrude above the plate of the steel plate
In a cylinder needle bed the knitting needles are placed between the tricks inserted in cuts along the cylinder surface generated
Trang 32Function of Knitting Cam:
individual or seriatim movement in the tricks of latch needle weft knitting machines as the butts pass through the stationary cam system (revolving cylinder machines)
upon machine design, are fixed, exchangeable or adjustable
Trang 33Knitting Action of Latch Needle Circular Knitting Machine:
Knitting actions are:
Considerable Points for Producing Knit Fabrics
Knit fabrics are the fashion of new age Various designed fabrics are produced in knitting machine Knitting flow chart should follow during operation During production processes following machine parameters are considered
rpm (revolution per minute)
Trang 34Considerable points to produce knit fabrics:
Generally knit fabric production runs according to the order of buyer When a buyer orders for fabric, they mention some points related to production and end product quality Before production
of knitted fabrics, these factors are needed to consider Those are as follow:
a) Type of fabric or design of fabric: Knitted fabrics are various in design When a buyer order
for a product they give a sample or give the specification of the end product Different designed fabrics are produced by changing the cam setting, needle setting and size of loop shape
b) Finished G.S.M: It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter In
knitting section grey fabrics are produced but the programmer should make his program for getting the finished G.S.M after dyeing Some points are considered while setting grey G.S.M; they are enzyme level, color and suided or non suided G.S.M of the fabric is controlled by the following way:
bric can be changed If pulley moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M is decrease and in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase This also depends on the machine type
c) Yarn Count: Yarn count differ on the finished G.S.M Higher the yarn count higher the G.S.M
of the fabric Sometimes spandex or lycra is used with the cotton in that‘s case yarn count of cotton select with the combination of lycra
d) Type of yarn: Different types of yarn are used for knit production Cotton yarns may be
combed or carded Also synthetic fiber like lycra is used with cotton for some special case All depends on the buyer requirement
e) Diameter of fabric: Diameter of the fabric is another factor Fabric may be open diameter or
tube diameter Anyhow grey dia will be selected with response of finished dia of the fabric
f) Stitch length and color depth: If the depth of color of the fabric is high then loop length
should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact In dark shade dye take up% is high so G.S.M is adjusted then Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller Stitch length varies depending on yarn count and shade of the fabric If stitch length is not fixed with respond to finished G.S.M then knitting faults appear
GSM (Gram Square Meter):
Measurement of GSM:
GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric The production
of knitted fabric is calculated in weight The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most knitted factory But the construction of this cutter is very simple It
is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading
GSM=(CPI X WPI X SL(mm)/Ne) X 0.9158
Here,
CPI = Course per Inch
WPI = Wales per Inch
Trang 35Larger stitch length/loop length produces lower GSM & smaller stitch length/loop length has
higher GSM
i.e., stitch length = Course length/ Total no of needle
Machine Gauge:
A term giving a notational indication of the no of needles per unit length along a needle bed or
needle bar of a knitting machine in current practice, a common unit length of one English inch
(25.4mm) is used for all types of warp and weft knitting machine
Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter Yarn diameter depends upon the
following:
Knitting Calculation:
Production of a knitting machine:
Production= (RPM x No of Feeder x No of Needle x SL x Effc x 60 x 8) / (10 x 2.54 x 36 x 840
Trang 36Some Knitted Fabric Stitch Notation, Cam Arrangement
Fabric Name: Single Lacost
1 Stitch Notation:
Fig Looping diagram
2 Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:
i) Using two track cams:
ii) Using three truck cams:
iii) Using four truck
cams:
Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement
Fabric Name: Double Lacost
1 Stitch Notation:
stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
Fig Looping diagram
2 Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:
i) Using two track cams:
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
4 = 4 Butt Needle
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
Trang 371
2 ii) Using three truck cams:
iii) Using four truck cams:
Fig.- Cam arrangement
Fig.- Needle arrangement
Fabric Name: Single Jersey
1 Stitch Notation:
Fig Looping diagram
2 Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:
i) Using two track cams:
ii) Using three truck cams:
iii) Using four truck cams:s
Fig.- Cam arrangement
Fig.- Needle arrangement
3
4
Trang 38Feature of Flat Knitting Machine
Flat knitting machine has two stationary needle beds
Latch needles are used
Angular cam of a bi-directional cam system is used
The cam system is attached to the underside of a carriage, which with its selected yarn carriers
The carriage traverses in a reciprocating manner across the machine width
There is a separate cam system for each needle bed
The two cam systems are linked together by a bridge, which passes across from one needle bed to the other
Normally machine gauge is 3 to 18 needles per inch and machine width up to 79 inches
Machine in Flat Knitting Section
Company Name : Round Star International Co
Trang 394 Programming Parts
Flat/V-Bed Knitting Action
V-BED LOOP IN REST POSITION
BOTH LOOP CLEAR THE LATCH NEW YARN ARE RECEIVED
BOTH LOOPS ARE CAST-OFF AS NEW STITCH
Increasing Production in Knitting Floor
Knit fabrics are produced from circular knitting machine or flat bed knitting machine Circular knitting machines are two types, they are single jersey or double jersey knitting machine This two type‘s machine has different cam arrangement settings, which is responsible for design production
Anyhow, production of knit fabrics depends on various factors By developing the following factors we can increase the production of knit fabrics
1 Machine Speed: Production per hour depends on the speed of the machine Higher the
machine rpm, faster the movement of needle which increase the production But we should make sure that, this higher speed will not impose excess tension on yarn Excess tension on yarn can increase the breakage of yarn which is not desired
Trang 402 Number of Feeder: If the number of feeder increases in the circumference of cylinder, then
the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time This is responsible for increasing the production
3 Machine Gauge: Machine gauge also effect the production of knit fabric Machine gauge vary
depending on the type of machine and Manufacturers Company Higher gauge machine gives higher production
4 Automation System: By imposing automation in the machine, production can be increased
Following automation can be added for higher production
n system for smooth operation
5 By imposing other developments: Following development can increase the production
6 Creel feeding system can increase the production
7 Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage
8 By using yarn feed control device
In modern time different advanced facilities added to the machine features, which will facilities the more production
Knit Fabric Faults, Causes and Ways of Remedies
Knit fabric is produced from loop formation So it needs to be careful during production Different types of faults could be found in knit fabric, which could be the cause of fabric rejection If we can find out the defects of fabric during production, than we can take steps to remove it from the next knitting production process
In practical; following knitting faults could be found in the knit fabric Some knitting faults and their remedies are given bellow: