SAMPLE, PATTERN, MARKER SAMPLE Sample making is one of the most important activities in the garment manufacturing process.. Original sample: This type of sample made of original fabri
Trang 1INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF
SEA MOSS KNITWEAR LTD.
Trang 2At a glance SEA MOSS KNITWEAR LTD
Year of Establishment : 2004
Status (Legal Structure) : Private Limited Company
Export Market : Europe
Sales Turnover : 22 Million USD
Annual GMT production : 1 Million Pcs/ Year
etc
PRODUCT : LADIS :BRIEF, BIKINI, BOYSHORT, PANTY, THONG,
HI-CUT, STRING, BRA, KAMISOL, AND OTHER LINGERIES
: MENS : MEN’S BOXER, UNDER GARMENTS KIDS : BODY SUIT
:GIRLS/BOYS : ALL TYPES UNDERGARMENTS, SLEEPWEAR & DRESSES
Trang 3
TRADE TERMS : CMT/ F.O.B/ CNF
MODE OF PAYMENT : IRREVOCALE LETTER OF CREDIT AT SIGHT
T/T
BAZAR BRANCH, DHAKA, BANGLADESH
1229, Bangladesh
Trang 5INTRODUCTION
In Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd there consists a Training Center which is
exceptional from the other factory It is seen that majority percent of
factories has no Training center This center trains the fresh worker This is
help for bulk production and increase the efficiency and ultimately
production is increased There consists all type of sewing machine for
practice For supervision a manager and two supervisor trains the worker
They guide all day long It is added here that some time a worker who
trains for someday has to give for making local garments and with the
concentration of the factory those sell in local market By this practice a
worker can get the proper idea about the floor level production
This training section also helps the worker to-
operation of a sewing machine
Familiar with the different parts of a sewing machine
Give a brief idea about the adjustable portion of a sewing
Trang 6FACTORY PROFILE
Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd based in Bangladesh, is a woven factory with sustained
goodwill and expertise in exports oriented ready-made garment manufacturing
Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd has earned unrivalled success and remarkable distinction
in the field of ready made garments local and international trading The company
started their ready-made garment manufacturing unit in the year of 2000 At the
beginning they started with two lines of garments production unit with 200
manpower But now a day they have 10 garments production lines with 700
manpower Coming soon they started a largest Textile Composite unit For this
they purchases 170 acres land area Dhakkinkhan, Dhaka Industrial Area
Trang 7
Mission and Vision:
Mission:
Starting from the beginning, Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd has put emphasis
on quality and credibility which helped a lot in earning buyers
confidence upholding a customer centered perspective Highly
professionals of Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd are working consistently to
ensure best support to the valuable clients For regular buyers
dedicated lines of production and specific merchandisers are
there to customize the service and ensure successful execution of
order
Vision:
1 To build up an organization that runs with a motivated work
force, beliefs in customer satisfaction, posse’s good
marketing strategy
2 To be one of the leading composite factory in Asia
subcontinent within ten years
3 To create & recruit 1 lac employee in Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd within
the year of 2030
Trang 8The Merchandiser
An individual, who acts as a coordinator, follows-up and takes
total responsibility of an order form booking to shipment and
beyond, for the customer who placed it and for his company’s
management
Merchandising
The Merchandising is known to the persons specially involved
in garments trade The term merchandising has been derived
from the merchandise Merchandise means goods that are
bought & sold
The term merchandising may be defined as person who
merchandises good ,specially for
export purposes Garments merchandising means buying
raw materials & accessories, producing garments, maintaining
required quality level & exporting the garments within schedule
time
Trang 9Merchandising Management system:
Buyer sends an order copy by e-mail or sometimes swatch also
E-mail is taken hand from (Order copy)
The measurement of various parameters are inserted by coding
number in the order copy like-
Shipment date etc
Before ultimate order a development sample is sent to buyer
Lab-dip is approved
Sampling is carried out
The sample is sent to buying house to check
After approved the sample then accessories
and fabrics are booked
Finally shipment is done after all clearance
The merchandiser basically follows up with all concern
production departments for their ordered products
The major functions/steps of a merchandiser:
Procuring the garments order
Procuring the raw materials
Production of garments
Shipments of garments
Receiving of payment for garments
Trang 10 Negotiation with Buyer
Order Received
Purchase Order Sheet Received
L.C Opening
Purchase Fabric & Accessories
Trang 11The steps are shown as diagramacally :
a Buyer confirms a order to a factory
Trang 12Production planning and pre production meeting:
Initial planning is prepared by the merchandising department
when the order confirmed
Based on the sample approval and shipment date, the
production department makes the planning of the production
only
The planning is done following the styling of the product and
the machine lay out to calculate the number of pieces
production per hour
Before production commence, pre production meeting is
necessary with all concerned departments to get the correct
productions
Production: sample development, planning, quality control
and inspection (AQL)
Quality Control and Inspection [AQL]:
Customer wise the quality requirement will get vary and
merchandisers are responsible to communicate with
customers to get the correct quality requirements and need to
co-ordinate with factory quality control department so that
they will well understand the requirement and can take care of
the bulk productions
Inspections are done during production which is called in line
inspection Later the final inspection done by the factory QC
as well as buying office QC to make sure that the final
products is shipping with right quality
Mentioned that, the right quality not good quality as the
‘quality’ refers to customer’s requirement
Trang 13 Also below cost elements need to consider during costing
~ Pricing for Fibers & Yarns
~ Pricing for fabric manufacturing
~ Pricing for garment manufacturing
~ Cost of accessories
~ Commercial cost
~ Break even point
~ Consumption of fabric and accessories with wastage
percentage
~ Total cost analysis [how much does it cost to provide
merchandise to end customer
Commercial
LC: Letter of Credit- Once the order is confirmed, buyer’s
bank issues a Letter of Credit (LC) to the manufactures Bank
With this LC, manufactures can start procurement of yarn,
fabric, accessories etc necessary for particular order
execution
If the LC delayed from buyers end, it will impact on the
delivery date and merchandisers need to follow this up with
buyer to get the LC for on time delivery
Back to Back L/C: To procure the yarn, fabric and
accessories, suppliers need to open another LC for secondary
suppliers bank based on the master LC This secondary
suppliers LC is called back to back LC
Trang 14j Draw string and stopper etc
Order follow-up and execution:
They do it during running the production As a result if any fault occurring it
rectified in the primary stage
Trang 15Here, a example is given below how way a order is follow-up and done
Buyer Development Process:
1) Reports & exports documents
Trang 16Arranging final inspection:
After completion the garment making merchandiser arrange final inspection date
with quality department Inspection is also depending on the wishes of buyer
Now a days most of the buyer follow 2.5% AQL.Here given Bellow 2.5% AQL
Trang 17STORE OR INVENTORY SYSTEM
Inventory:
Inventory is the stock of any item or resources used in an Organization
Fabric storage:
Supplied Grey fabrics are first subjected to the 4 point inspection system and fabric
allowance point is 28 per 100 yards Only those goods are stored here which are
passed from the quality control department And defected fabrics are back to the
Trang 18FIG: FABRIC STORE
4- Point inspection system:
Defects (length wise): Penalty point:
1 0-3 inch………1
2 3-6 inch………2
3 6-9 inch………3
4 9 inch & above……… 4
5 Any hole& miss pick……… 4
Example: Suppose inspected fabric length=100 yds, fabric width=50 inch, and following faults are found Faults length No of faults 0-3 inch 3
3-6 inch 5
6-9 inch 3
9 inch & above 2
Trang 19
We know,
Points/100 yds= Total penalty points*100*36
Fabric length*Fabric width
13 3
Points /100 yds = -×100× -
= 09.36 per 100 sq/yds
Fabric inventory:
Various types of fabric and accessories such as sewing tread, button,
interlining, label etc are stored in central room Here also machine sparse
parts and stationary are stored in store room
The flow sequence of fabric inventory is given below:
Received the fabric
Pre-inspection
Physical inventory
Make the swatch card
Prepare blanket shade
Shade segregation Issue fabric to cutting room
Fabric is separated and according to lot number
Accessories inventory:
Trang 20Flow sequence of accessories inventory is given below
Import receive
Physical inventory
Swatch making
Swatch approval from buyer
Register/Record the entry
Supply to sub store according to demand
Issue to bulk production
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Accessories inventory item:
Hanger size: Identify the size of the garment by hanger
Label: Labels are the most important trimmings by which customer
easily, know about the product Here two types of label are
available:
1 Main label: It contains the name of buyer and country Ex
Wal-Mart, USA etc
2 Sub label:
i Size label: It contains the size of the garment
ii Care label: It contains care construction Different types
of care label are given below
iv Composition: It contains fiber composition of the fabric
Ex 65% cotton, 35%polyester
Sewing thread:
Different types of sewing treads are available in store room Such as
Trang 22Many types of button are available in store room Some examples of button
are given below
Amount determination of button:
There are two systems of determination the amount of amount These are
Trang 23SAMPLE, PATTERN, MARKER
SAMPLE
Sample making is one of the most important activities in the
garment manufacturing process The manufacturer always
needs at least a sketch of the garment, original patterns,
specification and the designer’s sample to make high quality
sample garments at the contractor’s factories Garments
factories are used different name used for different types of
samples In the sample departments of garment factories
different type of sample are made for different purposes
Flow sequence of sample section is given below:
Receive developed sheet from buyer
Develop the sample
Send the sample to buyer for approval
Approval of sample/comments about the sample (if necessary)
Send pre-production sample to buyer
Start bulk production
Trang 24Types of sample produce by Sample Section according to buyer demand:
There is various type of sample those are given below:
1 Original sample:
This type of sample made of original fabric and accessories according to buyer sketch
and measurement
2 Photo/ Develop sample:
Here measurement is very important but need not to match the fabric and accessories
For advertising of the product buyer want this type of sample
8 Sales man sample:
To supply the new product in different showroom, buyer wants this sample
9 Photo sample:
Only photograph of the product is send to buyer
10 Shipment/ Reference sample:
After completion the shipment of the garment some garment are kept in sample room
which are known as shipment or reference sample
11 Pre-line sample:
This type of sample is collected from anyone line during production
Trang 2512 Lab-test sample:
Sample is tested by third party or buyer’s nominated lab
Pattern making
This department provides patterns of different design for sample preparation
Samples are not large scale production, they are small in quality So plotting
machines are not used for samples Patterns are made by drawing the design on
drawing papers and then cutting them manually A sequence can be shown:
Design → pattern → sample preparation
Generally, finished pattern is provided by buyer Then allowance is added and
patterns are graded
Pattern making process:
By Computer:
With Digitizing System - where master pattern is made manual on hard pattern
paper
-Patterns are laid-out on the sensitized table &placed cursor around the pattern
-Modified and graded them directly on screen
Trang 26CAD Section work flow
CAD section Block pattern Pattern Digitizing by Digitizer machine Pattern Grading pointwaise
Marker Making Costing consumption marker
Booking Cutting
Go to bulk production
Marker making:
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment It is made just
before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages The width of a marker is
equal to the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric
i.e the width of the marker is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric
The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously
minimize wastages
Objects of marker making:
- To reduce cost;
- To improve the quality of the garments;
- To reduce the cutting time;
- To facilitate large scale production
Trang 27Possibilities of marker making:
Generally there are two methods by which marker can be made –
MANUAL METHOD:
The man performs it by himself using his hands It is a conventional system and
requires more time Manually two types of marker are made –
1 Full size marker:
Full size marker is made for production purpose
2 Miniature type marker:
Miniature type marker is sometime made and its purposes are to plan or schedule and
learn or study i.e for planning and learning purposes
COMPUTERIZED METHOD:
Now the commonly used system of marker making is computerized
method In this system, a man performs it by himself using computer
software (CAD and CAM) and it requires considerably less time than
manual system Two types of marker are generally made using
computerized system –
1.Full size marker:
Using ‘Digitalizing Board’ the pattern pieces are input into the computer
Computer uses software and a marker paper is printed out that will be used
in the production
Trang 282.Miniature type marker:
Only for learning, practicing, and planning purposes this type of marker is
printed from the computer
Factors considered during marker making:
The important factors considered during marker making are –
Nature of the Fabric:
The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric Thus the nature of the
fabric should be
considered during marker making
Lay planning of patterns:
Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage Thus it should
be taken under consideration
Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line:
It is also another important factor that must be considered The warp
direction of a fabric is very much important for a garment and the grain line
indicates the warp or wale direction
Trang 29Requirements of cutting:
Before placing the pattern pieces on to the marker or during marker making
the cutting allowances are considered where necessary and where is not It
may produce more wastage and may reduce the dimensions of patterns
Production planning:
Different types and sizes if garments manufacturing may un at a time in an
industry So during marker making it should be considered
Size of marker:
During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of the fabric,
etc
Marker Efficiency:
The ratio between the total areas of the pattern pieces to the total area of the
maker paper is technically termed as Marker Efficiency It is expressed in
percentage If it is denoted by the symbol ή then –
Marker Efficiency (ή) = (Total areas of the pattern pieces/Total area
of the Marker paper) * 100
The factors which influence the Marker Efficiency –
Manufacturers of the marker;
Size of pattern pieces;
Length of the marker;
Pattern Engineering;
Trang 30 Nature of the fabric;
Method of marker making;
Marker width;
Kinds or design of garments
The hinders of marker making are –
Grain Line:
Grain line is a more effective constraint of marker making Because of grain
line sometimes it is tough to place the pattern pieces on to the marker,
even though it is possible the wastage become higher
Design of Garments:
Sometimes the designs and repeats of the fabric are regarded as
constraints of marker making The patterns may miss the designs or may
overlap the designs
Nature of the Fabric:
Nature of the fabric may sometimes be regarded as a constraint of marker
making Nature of the fabric includes symmetric and asymmetric
Trang 31Fabric wastages inside and outside of the marker
INSIDE WASTAGE:
That wastage that is obtained from the inter-spaces of the pattern pieces in the
marker paper It depends on the efficiency of the marker maker and on the size of
the patterns as well
OUTSIDE WASTAGE:
Besides the inside wastages, some fabric is wasted outside of the marker –
Ends of the ply losses:
Generally each ply of the fabric losses up to 4 cm at both sides (Two sides * 2 cm)
End of fabric losses:
The length of fabric may sometimes not cover the ply, it may finish its end at less
than 5 yards (cut piece) This piece of fabric goes through wastage and is called
end of fabric losses
Selvedge losses:
Generally selvedge losses are 2% to 3%
Purchase losses:
Sometimes losses may arise from purchase Wrong consumption calculation may
cause huge wastage
Trang 32
Fabric inspection CUTTING SECTION
Fabric Inspection:
When the fabrics are received from the dyeing and finishing
section, it needs to be checked, because, faulty fabrics can be
supplied from dyeing and finishing But the cutting section has
to check it Otherwise the end products will be faulty For this,
the fabric is being inspected by the quality inspector of the
cutting section They check the fabric fully and find out the
faults Then mark it so that, these faulty portion of the fabric can
be rejected during spreading and cutting Then the fabric is
being stored for relaxation
.
Fig: Finished Fabric Inspection
Trang 335 Four point system calculation
6 Prepared fabric inspection report
7 Prepared weight sheet
8 Send to store (With Weight Sheet)