7 O OH Lilial® 8 Functional groups with therapeutic actions Anti-infectious, immunostimulants Anti-infectious, immunostimulants Anti-infectious, immunostimulants Estrogen-like activity A
Trang 1Basic fragrance
chemistry I
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Objectives:
• Basic element
• Chemical functional group of aroma compounds
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Contents:
• Introduction
• Functional group
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Flower and Chemistry
• Smell a Flower – The Fragrance is Chemistry
• See a Flower – The Colour is Chemistry
• Touch a Flower – The Structure is Chemistry
Carnation
• Flower
• Eugenol
• Perfume & Cosmetics
Vanilla
• Seed
• Vanillin
• Perfume
Trang 27 O
OH
Lilial®
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Functional groups with therapeutic actions
Anti-infectious, immunostimulants Anti-infectious, immunostimulants Anti-infectious, immunostimulants Estrogen-like activity
Anti-infections, calming, litholitic Balancing, calming
Antispasmodic, calming Balancing, calming Cicatrizing (wound healing), mucolitic, litholitic, calming
Expectorant, antispasmodic Anti0infectious, immunostimulants Anti-infectious, antispasmodic Anti-infectious, cortisone-like activity Antihistamines, anti-allergic
Acids Aromatics aldehydes C10 Alcohols C15 & 20 Alcohols Aldehydes Coumarins Esters Lactones Ketones Oxides Phenols Phenyl methyl ethers C10 Terpenes C15 Terpenes
Actions Functional group
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Chemistry/Biology/Physiology/Psychology
- Organic Chemistry – Synthetic, Molecular structure,
Biochemistry, Molecular Biology, Genomics,
Anatomy, Neuroscience, Bioinformatics
- Analytical Chemistry – GC-MS analysis, Quality
Assurance
- Physical Chemistry – Emulsions, Light scattering, etc.
- Psychological aspects of perception – other
influences
Computer Science – for all of the above +
OLFACTION & GUSTATION
Multidisciplinary Fields
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Organic Chemistry
Organic synthesis
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Analytical Chemistry
Physical Chemistry
Trang 3Artificial nose
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Elements for Life
• C : Carbon
• H : Hydrogen
• N : Nitrogen
• O : Oxygen
• P : Phosphorus
• S : Sulfur
Living organisms composed
of the 6 elements in 99.9%
w/w
And trace 17 elements
Pork fired rice
Cheese pizza
Trang 4hemoglobin is bright red containing Iron (Fe)
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Organic and Inorganic substances
• Organic – C, H, N, O, P, S
• Inorganic – Metal – Salt
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Weight & Number
0 Shell -1
Electron
1 Nucleus 0
Neutron
1 Nucleus +1
Proton
Mass Location Charge
Particle
Atomic weight = Proton + Neutron Atomic number = Proton
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Structure
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Chemical bonds : Octet rule
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Chemical bonds : Electronegativity
Trang 5Chemical bonds
Two or more elements combine to form compound
- Covalent bonds
- Ionic bonds
- Hydrogen bonds
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Covalent bonds
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Hydrogen bonds
Fragrance and Chemical functional group
- Hydrocarbon
- Oxygen compounds
- Nitrogen compounds
- Sulfur compounds
- Heterocyclic compounds
- Halogen compounds
Fragrance compound name
Dec Non Oct Hep Hex Pent But Prop Eth Meth
Prefix
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C
-ate -ic -one -al -ol -yle -ene -ane
Suffix
Functional group
Trang 631 32
Structure writing
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Isomers
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Isomers
Cis or Z Trans or E
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Isomers
R, S or (+), (-) or d, l
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Hydrocarbon
Aliphatic alkane : single bond : CnH2n+2 alkene : double bond : CnH2n alkyne : triple bond : CnH2n-2 cycloalkane : CnH2n
alicyclic : aliphatic cyclic
Aromatic
Trang 7Alkane
- 1C to 4C are colorless and odorless,
flammable gases at ambient temp & press.
- 5C to 14C are colorless, flammable
liquids, uninteresting odor
- >15C are colorless, odorless, waxy solid
Hydrocarbon : Aliphatic
Lower alkanes are of no interest in perfumery, needed
to remove as the extraction solvent from the extract
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Hydrocarbon : Aliphatic Alkene
- unsaturated hydrocarbon
- geometric isomers
- molecular parent of terpene
buta-1,3-diene
methylbuta-1,3-diene
Alkane posses odor rather similar to the corresponding alkane but more odor strength due to double bond
Simple alkanes are not used as perfume ingredients.
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Terpene
Hydrocarbon : Aliphatic
Isoprene
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myrcene
Terpene
momoterpene : C10H16
sesquiterpene : C15H24
(one and a half)
Hydrocarbon : Aliphatic
farnesene
Alkyne
- unpleasant, petroleum-like odor
- no application in perfumery
But its derivative recently used as
perfume ingredient give powerful green
character
cycloalkane C n H 2n alicyclic : aliphatic cyclic
Similar odor of those alkane having the same number of carbon
Trang 8Hydrocarbon : Aromatic
-Benzene is the prototype of aromatic compounds
1865 Friedrich August Kekulé
- Bezenoid compound posses sweet and pleasant odor
Dimethylbenzene or Xylene
1,2-dimethylbenzene
ortho-dimethylbenzene
o-dimethylbenzene
1,3-dimethylbenzene
meta-dimethylbenzene
m-dimethylbenzene
1,4-dimethylbenzene
para-dimethylbenzene
Alcohols & Phenols : R-OH
Ethers : R-O-R
Aldehydes : R-CHO Acetals : R-C(OR) 2 Ketones : R-COR
Carboxylic acids : R-COOH
Esters : R-COOR
Lactones : O
O
Oxygen compounds
O O
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Substitute group : R
C
H
H
C H
H C H
H C H
H
H
H
C H
H C H
H C H
H C H
H
H
H Pentyl Pentane
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Alcohols & Phenols
Some alcohol of interest to perfumer
NA Creamy mushroom
3-octen-2-ol
1.2 ppb (H2O) Powerful mushroom
1-octen-3-ol
1550 ppb (H2O) Green, grassy and leafy
E-3-hexen-1-ol
70 ppb (H2O) Herbaceous, green, grassy
Z-3-hexen-1-ol
400 ppb (H2O) Green, leafy
E-2-hexanol
NA Fresh green, leafy
Z-2-hexanol
Odor detection threshold Organoleptics
Alcohol
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Pure phenol is colorless crystal with clean and
antiseptic odor
Phenol was the first antiseptic ever used
Pure phenol is very dangerous cause extremely
painful skin burn
OH
Alcohols & Phenols
O OH
OH
Eugenol
Thymol
Glucoside form in oil of cloves, pale yellow liquid, strong odor Antibacterial, antifungal
Perfumes, Soaps, Cosmetic
Thyme and ajowan oil, white solid, thyme odor
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Aldehydes
Aldehyde = alcohol dehydrogenatum Latin
= dehydrogenated alcohol English
3.0 ppb (H2O) Vinous fruity, coarse, very
powerful
CH3(CH2)5CHO Heptanal
4.5 ppb (H2O) Fruity green, very powerful
CH3(CH2)4CHO Hexanal
12.0 ppb (H2O) Choking, pungent, fruity, oily
CH3(CH2)3CHO Pentanal
0.7 ppb (H2O) Orange peel, fatty, very powerful
CH3(CH2)6CHO Octanal
9.0 ppb (H2O) Choking, pungent, fruity
CH3(CH2)2CHO Butanal
9.5 ppb (H2O) Choking, suffocating, fruity
CH3CH2CHO Propanal
8.7 ppb (H2O) Choking, vinous, fruity
CH3CHO Acetaldehyde
Odor detection threshold Organoleptics
Formula Aldehydes
Important aldehyde in perfumery = C8-C13
Perfume industry tends to speak of aldehyde C12rather than dodecanal
Trang 9Acetals
R
O
R
O
H
R O R
O R
O O
Hemi-acetal Acetal
- Acetal posses interesting and useful odor
- Acetal is alkali stable
PADMA = phenyl-acetaldehyde dimethyl acetal
O
O
acetaldehyde di-cis-3-hexenyl acetal
Perfume, green relates to hyacinth and watercress
Sweet and
Ketones
Acetone (aketon German ) rose to ketone
Acetone has a rather harsh, etheral and unpleasant odor used as a simple and inexpensive nail varnish remover
Fruity, orange like, floral
CH3CO(CH2)7CH3 Decanone
Fruity, floral, herbaceous
CH3CO(CH2)6CH3
Nonanone
Floral, green fruity, herbaceous
CH3CO(CH2)5CH3
Octanone
Sweet, fruity, spearmint
CH3CO(CH2)4CH3 Heptanone
Ethereal, fruity
CH3CO(CH2)3CH3 Hexanone
Fruity, orange like, waxy, floral
CH3CO(CH2)8CH3 Undecanone
Ethereal, not unpleasant
CH3CO(CH2)2CH3 Pentanone
Ethereal, not unpleasant
CH3COCH2CH3
Butanone
Harsh, ethereal
CH3COCH3
Propanone
Organoleptics Formula
Ketones
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Esters
1.0 ppb (H2O) Ethereal, fruity, buttery
EtOOC(CH2)2CH3 Ethyl butyrate
1.5 ppb (H2O) Strong, fruity, apple
EtOOC(CH2)3CH3
Ethyl valerate
1.0 ppb (H2O) Strong, fruity, wine, apple,
banana, pineapple EtOOC(CH2)4CH3
Ethyl hexanoate
2.2 ppb (H2O) Strong, fruity, wine, cognac
EtOOC(CH2)5CH3
Ethyl
heptanoate
15.0 ppb (H2O) Fruity, wine, sweet,
cognac-apricot EtOOC(CH2)6CH3
Ethyl octanoate
850.0 ppb (H2O) Fatty, oily, cognac, nut
EtOOC(CH2)7CH3
Ethyl nonanoate
10.0 ppb (H2O) Strong, ethereal, fruity, rum
EtOOCEt Ethyl propionate
5000.0 ppb (H2O) Ethereal, sharp, wine-brandy like
EtOAc Ethyl acetate
Odor detection threshold Organoleptics
Formula Esters
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Cinnamon
• Bark
• Cinnamaldehyde
• Perfume
Cinnamon
• Leaf
• Eugenol
• Vanillin raw material
Citronella
• Leaf
• Citronellol
• Soap & Cosmetics
Trang 10Clove
• Bud
• Eugenol
• Perfume
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Cumin
• Seed
• Cuminaldehyde
• Perfume
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Eucalyptus
• Leaf
• Cineole
• Fixative
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Fennel
• Seed
• Anethole
• Oral care
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Geranium
• Stem & Leaf
• Geraniol
• Perfume
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Hyacinth
• Flower
• Benzyl acetate
• Fragrant
Trang 11Jasmine
• Flower
• Benzyl acetate
• Floral perfume
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Lavender
• Flower
• Linalool
• Perfume & Soap
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Lemongrass
• Leaf
• Citral
• Soap & Detergent
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Nutmeg
• Seed coat
• i -Camphene
• Oral care
Orange
• Fruit peel
• d -Limonene
• Perfume & Lipstick
Orange
• Flower
• Linalool
• Perfume & Cosmetics
Trang 12Patchouli
• Leaf
• (-)-Patchoulol
• Perfume
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Pennyroyal
• Stem
• d -Pulegone
• Soap
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Peppermint
• Leaf
• i -Menthol
• Oral care
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Rose
• Flower
• i -Citronellol
• Perfume
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Sandalwood
• Wood & Root
• Santalol
• Fixative
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Spearmint
• Leaf
• i -Carvone
• Oral care
Trang 13Star anise
• Fruit
• Anethole
• Perfume
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Thyme
• Leaf & Flower
• Thymol
• Soap
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Wintergreen
• Leaf
• Methyl salicylate
• Oral care
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Ylang ylang
• Flower
• Benzyl acetate
• Perfume
References
1 Butler H, editor Poucher’s Perfume, Cosmetics and
Soaps 10thed Dordrecht: Kluwer; 2000.
2 Curtis T, William DG Introduction to Perfumery 2nded
Trowbridge: Micelle Press; 2001.
3 Arctander S Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma
Chemicals) V 1 Illinois: Allured; 1994
4 Gimelli SP Aroma Science New York: Micelle Press;
2001
5 Nattaya L Fragrance Chemistry in Aromatic Science
1701351 [Lecture handout] Chiangrai: MFU.
6 Ellena C Perfume formulation: words and chats Chem
Biodiv 5: 1147-1153, 2008.
7 Laudamiel C., Hornetz C., Mookherjee BD., Patel S From
Thank you for your attention