great places to stay in europe a

Each place to stay – whether a hotel, a bed-and-breakfast or a country inn – has been chosen because it is in some way special, an experience worth seeking out in its own right and mor

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T HE G UIDES T HAT S HOW Y OU W HAT O THERS O NLY T ELL Y OU

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D ORLING K INDERSLEY T RAVEL G UIDES

D E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L G U I D E S ORLING K INDERSLEY T T RAVEL G UIDES

GREAT PLACES TO

STAY IN EUROPE

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4 Cley Mill, Great Britain; 5 Hotel Real, Spain; 6 Verbano, Italy; 7 Wald & Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe,

Germany; 8 Château de Vault de Lugny, France.

Edited and produced for Dorling Kindersley by Duncan Petersen

Publishing Ltd, 31 Ceylon Road, London W14 OPY

PROJECTEDITORS Marion Moisy (1st edition),

Chris Barstow (updates)

ASSISTANTEDITORS Nicola Davies, Zoe Ross

DESIGNERS Beverley Stewart, Chris Foley

EDITORIALASSISTANTS Catherine Iszard, Mark Adcock

EDITORIALDIRECTOR Andrew Duncan

ARTDIRECTOR Mel PetersenDorling Kindersley LtdLouise B Lang, Nick Inman, Nancy Jones, Kate Poole, Dave Pugh

MAIN CONTRIBUTORS

Fiona Duncan and Leonie Glass

CONTRIBUTORS

Philip Lee, Judith Hampson, David Sandhu, Jenny Rees,

Dorine Scherpel, Celia Woolfrey, Sarah Toynbee, Kathy Arnold,

Paul Wade, Robin Gauldie

MAPS

Colourmap Scanning LtdReproduced by Colourscan (Singapore)Printed and bound by South China Printing Co., Ltd, China

First American Edition, 2000

Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2002, 2004

04 05 10 9 8 7 6 5 4Published in the United States by

CONVENTIONS NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED,STORED

IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM,OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS,

ELECTRONIC,MECHANICAL,PHOTOCOPYING,RECORDING OR OTHERWISE WITHOUT

THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER

PUBLISHED INGREATBRITAIN BYDORLINGKINDERSLEYLIMITED

ISSN 1542-1554ISBN 0-7894-9731-X

THROUGHOUT THIS BOOK,FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO INACCORDANCE WITHEUROPEAN

USAGE,I.E.,THE“FIRST FLOOR”IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL

The information in every

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible

at the time of going to press Some details, however, such as telephone

numbers, e-mail addresses, and prices are liable to change The publishers

cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this

book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that

any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information

We would be delighted to receive any corrections and suggestions for

incorporation in the next edition; on page 432 you will find a reader’s

response form Or write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,

Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

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THIS GUIDEis designed to help

you get the most from your

travels in Europe Each place

to stay – whether a hotel, a

bed-and-breakfast or a country inn – has been

chosen because it is in some way

special, an experience worth

seeking out in its own right and

more than just a bed for the night.

There are 15 sections, each devoted

to a single country The sections run

in loose geographical order, starting

in Northern Europe and ending in Southern Europe.

Within each section there are always three parts: introductory pages, describing the accommodation scene overall; maps, showing where the hotels are located; and the hotel entries (‘listings’) themselves.

H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

O UR E IGHT S ELECTION C RITERIA

•Character – in the buildings, and the

interior decoration.

•Atmosphere or ambience – often

influenced by other guests.

•Style and taste not only in the

interior decoration but in the details –

the placing of furniture, the

presentation of menus, and so on.

•An interesting, attractive location.

•A personal welcome – genuine, not forced – from staff or proprietor.

•Bedrooms like real bedrooms, not hotel rooms.

•Interesting food, prepared with care from fresh ingredients.

•Size: generally not very large, but some large hotels are included – see the qualifications below.

A Question of Balance

As you would expect, our

main entries – the ones

illustrated with

photo-graphs – tend to score five,

six, seven or even eight out

of eight on the list

des-cribed above But, and you

will find this clearly stated

in the text where

appro-priate, a significant number

of our main selections are

especially strong on just

one or two of the points,

and weak on the others It

is very often the case for

example that a lovely old

building, in a magical

set-ting, makes a truly special

hotel, despite the fact that

the bedrooms may be dull,

possibly small, and the

service not as some would

wish This is especially true

of Venice hotels, but you’ll

find such places

through-out the guide

Generally speaking, our

inspectors have rated

setting, atmosphere and a

personal welcome more

important than service,

food and sophisticated

facilities But, of course,

they have rejected

anywhere that doesn’t

reach their basic standards

of comfort We believe thatthis philosophy will giveour readers more mem-orable experiences on theirtravels than a cushioning

of standardized comfortand facilities

Please do use the form

on page 432 to let us knowyour views on the placeswhere you have stayed, or

to recommend others forthe next edition

Food

We don‘t underestimate itsimportance, and someentries would not havemade it in to this guide,were it not for their food

However, it is increasinglytrue, especially in Britain,France and Italy, that goodfood is the norm In thesecountries, hotels generallyneed to have more goingfor them than food alone to

be featured in this guide

inspectors favoured theprivately-owned, smallerhotels, guesthouses or innsbecause it’s so much easierfor them to offer a gen-uinely personal welcomeand an atmosphere inwhich you feel like anindividual, rather than one

in a crowd

Variety

Above all, our contributorshave tried to provide var-iety There are more than2,000 entries in the guide,and among them there isevery sort of lodging: bed-and-breakfasts in historicprivate houses; hotels instately homes andchâteaux; self-cateringapartments in Venetianpalaces; there is even aguest house in a windmill

And if you really need aretreat, try one of themonasteries in Spain thatopen their door to trav-ellers We’ve deliberatelymixed the unusual with themore conventional rest-aurants-with-rooms,country inns, smart townhouses and crumbling butbeautiful farmhouses

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0 kilometres 50 50

Northern England

Newcastle is home to one of the Malmaison chain (page included in this section – which is noted for its somewhat unconventional ambience and affordable prices In the northwest, the Lake District is packed out with tourists in summer, but

it is easy enough to escape the crowds if you like hill walking or if you visit in autumn when the weather can be clear and warm

There are many B&Bs which don’t mind muddy walking boots, and some special country house hotels too, including Old Church at Watermillock on the edge of Ullswater (page 108) Other famous areas of outstanding beauty in the north include Peak District Nearby are country hotels such as Amerdale House at Arncliffe

a former cotton mill.

Scotland

Country hotels in Scotland are memorable for location, character and food: many occupy imposing positions

on peaceful lochs, and employ chefs who make full use of the local specialities and have a loyal clientele who rearrange their itinerary Wykham Arms at Winchester, page 92, the archetypal pub-with-character kh h h l h h

West Usk Lighthouse, page 119

H IGHLIGHTS

H OTELS ILLUSTRATED on these introductory pages are by

no means our only highlights.

Other favourites include:

Cornwall (page 90) for ing sophistication with seaside fun; still in Cornwall, Trebea Lodge at Tintagel (page 91), for an excep- tionally warm welcome and personal touch; and Hambleton Hall (page 96), for offering stylish pampering in

marry-an away-from-it-all location

on Rutland Water, near Oakham in the Midlands In

to be sure of getting a room.

Glasgow and Edinburgh are obvious centres for their art galleries and architecture (and assured townhouse hotels), as well as the annual Edinburgh Festival (and associated Fringe) in August.

The High-lands and Islands offer some of the most remote and peaceful places to stay

in Britain, one such favourite being the Altnaharrie Inn on Loch Broom (page 115), accessible only by boat, and with perhaps one of the best restaurants in Britain.

Wales

The walking is superb in the Brecon Beacons, Snowdonia and along Offa’s Dyke The Pembrokeshire coastline, with its crumbling medieval castles, and seaside resorts such as Tenby and St David’s

is well worth a detour.

Potential overnight stops include many family-run hotels offering good food –

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326 319

H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

The towns and villages in which our entries

are located are shown in a box marked by a

star, accompanied by a page number Simply

turn to the page, and you will find the entry

for that particular place to stay You may also

find the maps useful for planning holiday routes

linking places to stay.

These pages provide an

overview of the country’s

different types of

accom-modation, highlight some

of the most interesting places

to stay, and offer practical

information on topics such

as tipping and meal times

Thumb tabs Each country

has a different-coloured thumb tab.

Highlights We use this

section to single out a few of the outstanding places to stay

in each country.

This book has been created

by a team of specialist

hotel writers, most with

many years’ experience of

inspecting hotels None

of the places featured in the book have paid to be

in the guide Those hotelswhich we did not alreadyknow were visited by

inspectors Most inspectionvisits were anonymous

For every hotel that appears in the guide, many were rejected

II NDEPENDENTLY II NSPECTED

T HE C OUNTRY I NTRODUCTIONS

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1 1 6

A

waterfront, this is a land best suited to the traditional country house establishment: warm, welcoming and above all, restful.

Many places take advantage of the superb landscape of Wales, with views across tidal estuaries or of distant mountains Some of the hotels we list – including a smattering

F I S H G UA R D

Three Main Street Excellent, easy-going

restaurant which serves light lunches and teas during the day Three good bedrooms.

N 3 Main Street, Fishguard, Pembrokeshire SA65 9HG.

Map p74 A3 § (01348) 874275 ` (01348) 874017.

0 b,l,d Rooms 3 ]]

C R I C K H OW E L L

Bear Hotel Bustling traditional inn situated in the

centre of town Well-run, with good food, comfortable bedrooms and warm atmosphere.

N High Street, Crickhowell, Powys NP8 1BW

Map p 74 C3 § (01873) 810408 ` (01873) 811696

$ bearhotel@aol.com 0 b,l,d Rooms 34 ]]

B R E C H FA

Ty Mawr Smart farmhouse hotel Bedrooms

overlook garden Good home cooking.

N Brechfa, Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire SA32 7RA.

Map p74 B3.§ (01267) 202332/202330.

` (01267) 202437 $ tymawr@tymawrcountry hotel.co.uk0 b,l,d Rooms 5 ]

A B E R G AV E N N Y

Llanwenarth House The Weatherill’s home

has spacious bedrooms and displays a love of horse and hound Dinner party-style dining.

N Govilon, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire NP7 9SF.

Map p74 C4.§ (01873) 830289 ` (01873) 832199.

0 b,d Rooms 5 ]]

St David’s Spa This swish waterfront

establishment, which features a hydrotherapy centre and spa, is a five-star oasis, particularly for businessmen The imposing structure is topped suitably nautical, cool and curvacious Every room has a private bay-view deck

N Havannah St, Cardiff CF10 5SD Map p74 C4 § (029)

2045 4045 ` (029) 2031 3075 $ reservations@

thestdavidshotel.com0 b,l,d Rooms 136.

z S ÷ ¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V ]]]]

Porth Tocyn For 50 years, the Fletcher-Brewer

hotel with magnificent views across Cardigan Bay and Snowdonia The plain building was fashioned from a group of lead-miners’ cottages Inside is a series of homely sitting rooms, and simple bedrooms, some interconnecting.

N Abersoch, Gwynedd LL53 7BU Map p74 B2.

§ (01758) 713303 ` (01758) 713538.

$ porthtocyn.hotel@virgin.net 0 b,l,d Rooms 17 S

of fine historic mansions – are in rolling border country Others are along the beautiful coastline;

others by the peaks of Snowdonia.

Accommodation in Wales ranges from private ancestral homes, with a mere handful of rooms set aside for guests, Hearty Welsh breakfasts and good local cooking (with Welsh cheese a speciality) are often a feature

N O R T H E R N E N G L A N D

1 0 4

G R E AT L A N G DA L E

Old Dungeon Ghyll At the heart of the Lake

District, a slate-and-stone walkers’ hostelry:

N Great Langdale, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9JY

Map p77 D5§ ` (015394) 37272.

$ neil.odg@lineone.net 0 b,l,d Rooms 14 ]

G R A S S I N G TO N

Ashfield House Simple guesthouse (originally

village’s main square, with a large walled garden

N 3 Summers Fold, Grassington, Skipton, North Yorkshire

BD23 5AE Map p75 D1.§ ` (01756) 752584.

$ info@ashfieldhouse.co.uk 0 b,d Rooms 7 ]]

G R A S M E R E

White Moss House Renowned for its cuisine,

with pretty bedrooms (two in a secluded cottage).

In the Wordsworth family until the 1930s.

N Rydal Water, Grasmere, Cumbria LA22 9SE

Map p77 D5.§ (015394) 35295 ` (015394) 35516.

$ sue@whitemoss.com 0 b,d Rooms 7 ]]

D U R H A M

Georgian Town House Town-centre Georgian

house decorated with flair (and a profusion of stencils) Breakfasts are taken in the conservatory.

N 10-11 Crossgate, Durham, Co Durham DH1 4PS

Map p77 E5 § ` (0191) 386 8070 $ enquiries@

georgian-townhouse.fsnet.com0 b Rooms 6 ]]

Leathes Head Previous owners Patricia Brady

and Mark Payne breathed new life into this Edwardian house, refurbishing it in traditional across the fells Dinner is a four-course affair with plenty of choice and delicious puddings Now

N Borrowdale, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5UY.

Map p77 D5.§ (017687) 77247 ` (017687) 77363.

$ email@leatheshead.co.uk 0 b,l,d Rooms 11.

∂ ¢ Dec to mid-Feb / V ]

Pheasant Inn The old oak bar, full of dark nooks

and crannies, is a gem, little changed from its with generous sitting space Bedrooms are modern and light, without TV or telephone The food makes few concessions to fashion – a simple characterful inn, recently refurbished.

N Bassenthwaite Lake, Cockermouth, Cumbria

CA13 9YE Map p77 D5 § (017687) 76234.

` (017687) 76002 $ pheasant@easynet.co.uk 0 b,l,d.

Rooms 18.∂ ¢ Christmas Day / MC, V ]]

Lindeth Fell Large mature gardens glowing with

azaleas and rhododendrons in spring, tremendous views, and a warm, courteous welcome from Pat and Diana Kennedy at this comfortable country house Wood-panelled hall, two sitting rooms, and pleasingly decorated bedrooms Drinks and tea can be taken on the terrace.

N Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3JP

Map p77 D5.§ (01539) 443286 ` (01539) 447455

$ kennedy@lindethfell.co.uk 0 b,l,d Rooms 14 ∂

¢ Jan to early Feb / MC, V ]]

B OW N E S S - O N -W W I N D E R M E R E

Devonshire Arms This glossy, go-ahead country

hotel is owned by the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, and furnished largely with objects rooms, the formal Burlington Restaurant and the themed four-poster rooms in the Old Wing

N Bolton Abbey, Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 6AJ.

Old Dungeon Ghyll At the heart of the Lake

District, a slate-and-stone walkers’ hostelry:

N Great Langdale, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9JY

Map p77 D5§ ` (015394) 37272.

$ neil.odg@lineone.net 0 b,l,d Rooms 14 ]

G R A S S I N G TO N

Ashfield House Simple guesthouse (originally

village’s main square, with a large walled garden

N 3 Summers Fold, Grassington, Skipton, North Yorkshire

BD23 5AE Map p75 D1.§ ` (01756) 752584.

$ info@ashfieldhouse.co.uk 0 b,d Rooms 7 ]]

G R A S M E R E

White Moss House Renowned for its cuisine,

with pretty bedrooms (two in a secluded cottage).

In the Wordsworth family until the 1930s.

N Rydal Water, Grasmere, Cumbria LA22 9SE

Map p77 D5.§ (015394) 35295 ` (015394) 35516.

$ sue@whitemoss.com 0 b,d Rooms 7 ]]

D U R H A M

Georgian Town House Town-centre Georgian

house decorated with flair (and a profusion of

stencils) Breakfasts are taken in the conservatory.

N 10-11 Crossgate, Durham, Co Durham DH1 4PS

Map p77 E5 § ` (0191) 386 8070 $ enquiries@

georgian-townhouse.fsnet.com0 b Rooms 6 ]]

O R ROW DA L E

B A S S E N T H WA I T E

Leathes Head Previous owners Patricia Brady

and Mark Payne breathed new life into this Edwardian house, refurbishing it in traditional across the fells Dinner is a four-course affair with plenty of choice and delicious puddings Now under the ownership of Roy and Janice Smith

N Borrowdale, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5UY.

Map p77 D5.§ (017687) 77247 ` (017687) 77363.

$ email@leatheshead.co.uk 0 b,l,d Rooms 11.

∂ ¢ Dec to mid-Feb / V ]

Pheasant Inn The old oak bar, full of dark nooks

and crannies, is a gem, little changed from its

with generous sitting space Bedrooms are

modern and light, without TV or telephone The

food makes few concessions to fashion – a simple

characterful inn, recently refurbished.

N Bassenthwaite Lake, Cockermouth, Cumbria

CA13 9YE Map p77 D5 § (017687) 76234

` (017687) 76002 $ pheasant@easynet.co.uk 0 b,l,d.

Rooms 18.∂ ¢ Christmas Day / MC, V ]]

Lindeth Fell Large mature gardens glowing with

azaleas and rhododendrons in spring, tremendous views, and a warm, courteous welcome from Pat and Diana Kennedy at this comfortable country house Wood-panelled hall, two sitting rooms, and pleasingly decorated bedrooms Drinks and tea can be taken on the terrace.

N Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3JP

Map p77 D5.§ (01539) 443286 ` (01539) 447455.

$ kennedy@lindethfell.co.uk 0 b,l,d Rooms 14 ∂

¢ Jan to early Feb / MC, V ]]

B OW N E S S - O N -W W I N D E R M E R E

Devonshire Arms This glossy, go-ahead country

hotel is owned by the Duke and Duchess of

Devonshire, and furnished largely with objects

rooms, the formal Burlington Restaurant and the

themed four-poster rooms in the Old Wing.

N Bolton Abbey, Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 6AJ

Map p75 D1.§ (01756) 710441 ` (01756) 710564.

$ dev.arms@legend.co.uk 0 b,l,d Rooms 41.

S ÷ ∂ ¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V ]]]

B O LTO N A B B E Y

First-time visitors are often

surprised by the following

features of European hotels

and other places to stay:

Adaptors (adapters) The

electricity points vary from

country to country so you

will find it useful to take a

universal adaptor

Tipping varies widely from

country to country See the

advice given on the

introductory pages for each

country

Face cloths and Kleenex

provided

Private bathrooms You’ll

mostly, but not always, getyour own bathroom

Floor numbers What

Americans call the first floor

is known as the ground floor(or “0”) in Europe In Britain,

“elevators” are “lifts”

Breakfasts (especially in

France and Italy) are often

minimal compared withwhat’s served in the US –often no more than breadrolls, butter, jam and possibly

a choice of coffee or tea

Passport as security Many

of the places featured in thisguide will ask for this whenyou check in It will bereturned when you leave

Markings on hot and cold taps may be confusing In

France, for example, ‘C’

•The factual information

All you need to finalize your choice and book For

an explanation of the symbols, see page 9.

These are all great places to stay – each and every one of them a useful address – but for one reason or another our inspectors could not rate them

as high as the entries with photos Don’t be surprised to find some well-known, luxurious places among these short entries They may be top-class hotels, but our inspectors were briefed to look for places that offered the traveller something special, rather than places that follow

a formula – however luxurious.

THEL LISTINGS

These follow in

alphabetical order by

nearest town or city

Long entries follow their

own alpha order, as do

shorts

•Regional introduction

Britain, France, Italy, Germany and Spain have been divided into regional sub-sections, each with a short introduction The other countries in the guide are not sub-divided.

•Entries with a photo

These are our favourite places Each conforms to a large number of our selection criteria (see panel on page 6).

Don’t expect them all to charge the same price or to conform to a rigid standard.

In order to make the guide interesting, many different types of accommodation have been included, at every price level Not just hotels, but guest houses, bed-and-breakfasts, inns and even a few self- catering places.

F OR V V ISITORS FROM O UTSIDE E UROPE

H OW TO R EAD THE E NTRIES

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available when we went to

press Some hotels will

have acquired e-mail after

this edition of the guide

was printed Note, too, that

many change their e-mail

address from time to time

Many hotels with e-mail

also have a website – you

may find it worthwhile to

search for this on the

Internet – it is highly

convenient to book through

the Web

0Meals generally served

in the establishment‘s own

restaurant or eating area:

b – breakfast, l – lunch,

d – dinner Some places

serve a light lunch (or even

provide a picnic) on

request Remember that

restaurants may be closed

on certain days of the week

– enquire when booking

We do not show whether

room service is available ornot

Number of rooms We

give the total number,including singles, doublesand suites

∂Garden, terrace or any

¢Closed

/Credit cards We note

only whether AmericanExpress (AE), Diners Club(DC), Mastercard (MC) orVisa (V) are accepted

Other cards may beaccepted too

]]]Price bands in the

local currency, referring tothe price of a standarddouble room in highseason These prices werequoted to our contibutorsand were correct at time

of going to press – there

is, however, no guaranteethat you will be offeredexactly the same prices

(Some hotels in touristcentres will raise theirprices when demandlooks as if it will exceedspace.) The price band istherefore only an indication

of the cost of staying in ahotel Please note that ourentries often offer a widerange of rooms, from cheap

to expensive: enquire whenbooking The price may ormay not include breakfast

Depending on the country,breakfast is either included,

or an extra, but the price

of breakfast rarely makes

a significant difference tothe price band The pricebands differ for eachcountry, and their actualvalues are given on therelevant introductory pages

Malt House In a tiny hamlet comprising little

more than church and pub, is this delightful17th-century Cotswold house There are low,beamed ceilings and leaded windowsoverlooking a dream garden The attractivebedrooms include a garden suite The owners’

son, Julian Brown, is the accomplished cook

N Broad Campden, Gloucestershire GL55 6UU

Garden When closed Credit cards Price band

Description ofhotel

A N E XPLANATION OF THE S YMBOLS

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N O R WA Y

I N T R O D U C I N G N O R WA Y 1 2 - 1 3

C O U N T R Y M A P 1 4 - 1 5

N O R WA Y 1 6 - 2 3

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N O R W A Y

1 2

Fairytale architecture at The Dalen at Dalen i Telemark, page 17

THERE’S SOMETHING about the pale

Norwegian light that makes

more southerly climes seem

flat and slightly jaded It gives the

landscape a clean, gentle quality,

and makes the locations of

many of the hotels in this

section particularly idyllic.

The places themselves are

often simple clapboard

houses on, say, a harbour

front or a spit of land next

to a still fjord Many are family run – some for

as far back as three or four generations Using our recommendations, you could construct an itinerary taking you from the islands of the south, via Oslo, through the western fjords to north of the Arctic circle, staying in unique places each night, without once having to resort to one of the many bland chain hotels.

NORWAY CANbe divided into

Eastern Norway, Southern

Norway, the Western fjords

and Northern Norway

Eastern Norway

Some of Europe’s finest

museums can be found in

Oslo, the capital of Norway,

but the city is also stirred by

plenty of interesting street life

and late night bars Its

19th-century boulevards are also

home to a number of

handsome hotels

Southern Norway

This is Norway’s holidayland –

an area of flat countryside, long

beaches and small islands just

off the coast The town of

Kristiansand’s water-front is

the closest Norway has to a

beach resort It also has a

ferry link to Copenhagen, and

many small family-run hotels

The Western Fjords

At the southern end of the

Western fjords is Stavanger, an

old town with a maritime feel

In the narrow lanes areattractive tall, white woodenhouses where seamen andmerchants once lived

Ferries chugging up the coasttake thousands of visitors tothe fjords in summer Manyhead for Bergen, an old tradingcentre with restored woodenhouses and a lively quayside

There’s a wide choice of places

to stay here, as well as in thesurrounding countryside

The rail route betweenBergen and Oslo goes throughgreat scenery This is a finejourney at any time, but inwinter it offers the bonus ofviewing the mountains undersnow and waterfalls frozensolid A branch line – one ofthe steepest in the world –plunges down to Flåm, on theedge of the serene SogneFjord In this area there areseveral of the remarkableNorwegian stave churches

Northern Norway

Around Trondheim, northbecomes far north Thelandscape, driving conditions

and weather alltoughen up Youcross the Arctic circlebetween Mo-i-Ranaand Bodø, beforearriving at the biggestsettlement in NorthernNorway, theuniversity city ofTromsø By the timeyou get to theNorthern Cape, andperhaps sail out toSpitsbergen, hotelstend to be functionaland cosy, but notmuch more

PLACES ILLUSTRATEDon theseintroductory pages are by

no means the only highlights

Among our other favouritesare Hotel Mundal in Fjaerland(page 17), an imposingVictorian building in a greatsetting; Frogner House Hotel

in Oslo (page 20), a smarttown hotel with style andindividuality; the KongsvoldFjeldstue inn in Kongsvold(page 18), a 17th-century innformerly used by pilgrims;

and the Sygard Grytting nearHundorp (page 18), a beauti-ful hotel, open for only acouple of months in summer,with a simple wooden interiordating from the 17th century

MUCHNORWEGIAN FOODisheavy and filling, perfectafter a day’s cross-countryskiing Some of the besttraditional cooking is onlyavailable at Christmas, when

special dishes like pinnekjøtt –

smoked mutton steamed over

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N O R W A Y 1 3

Oslo’s Nobel House Hotel, page 21

something you have to master

to get around English iswidely spoken – and,moreover, spoken well

Currency The Norwegian

krone, written NKR.

Shops Open 9am–5pm Mon–

Wed & Fri; 9am–6pm or 7pmThu; 9am–2pm or 3pm Sat

Tipping No extra charge is

made for service on the bill,but it’s normal to leave a tip

of around 10 per cent inrestaurants, and 5 to 10 percent in bars

Telephoning Inside Norway,

dial all 8 digits of a number,wherever you are calling from

If you wish to call Norwayfrom the UK, dial 00 47followed by the number,leaving out the initial 0 fromthe area code; from the US,dial 011 47

Public holidays 1 January,

Maundy Thursday and GoodFriday, Easter Monday, 1 May,

17 May (Constitution Day),Ascension Day, Whit Mondayand Tuesday, 15 August,

THERE IS NOstar (or anyother symbol) system toclassify the comfort level ofNorwegian hotels, so if youare booking a room from along list of hotels withoutdescriptions, the only thing to

go on is price

Our price bands as usualrefer to the price of astandard double room in highseason Prices quoted byhotels usually includebreakfast and all taxes

served with cabbage –

appear on the menu, along

with ribbe, julepølse and filling

medisterkake – pork ribs,

sausage and dumplings

Reindeer steaks are available

throughout the year, either

served with boiled potatoes

and cranberry sauce, or as the

main component of a rich

stew Venison, elk and seal

meat – the latter marinaded

until it is almost black and

tasting slightly of the sea – are

also occasionally offered

seems to be served with

anything meaty, but you can

get away from this if you opt

for fish such as pickled

herring or salmon, which are

particularly good Lutefisk is

preserved cod reconstituted to

a jellylike consistency It is

good with potatoes and often

served alongside herring

dishes as part of a traditional

feast Dried cod fish – soaked

to plump it up, but always

slightly chewy – is also tasty

when served in broth Some

of the simpler foods are the

most memorable, and include

different kinds of ‘black’

breads, fresh goat’s cheese,

and wild cloudberries – from

north of the Arctic circle –

served with cream

Beers are classed as I, II or

III, III being the strongest and

available in bars and shops

Wine and spirits including the

local 40 per cent proof akevitt

can only be bought from the

state-controlled Vinmonopol

shops, or in bars All alcoholic

drink in Norway is

surpris-ingly expensive

Drinking is not a

main-stream social activity during

the week, but at weekends

people kick over the traces

and indulge in drinking

sessions complete with

drink-ing songs and other ‘Vikdrink-ing’

behaviour Drinking in Oslo

is more urbane, with a fickle

bar scene and some

‘micro-breweries’ serving real ale

IF YOU WANTtwin beds, ask

for them specifically when

booking Doubles are

stan-dard size – it’s not usual to

come across king size or extra king size beds Bath-rooms are en-suite and manyhotels have shared saunas(mixed-sex)

help-Smoking has been banned

in all public places (includingrestaurants and the publicareas of hotels) since 1988

If you are deterred by theprice of evening meals, try

the lunchtime koldtbord that

many restaurants offer (theNorwegian rendition of

smörgåsbord) – all you can d

eat for a set price Another

good deal is the dagens rett –

a daily special menu

During the summer,businesses shut down fromJuly onwards, and hotel pricesdrop considerably BetweenOctober and June, too, luxuryhotels suddenly becomemuch more affordable at theweekends, when substantialdiscounts (often 40–50 percent on the usual room rate)come into effect

It is always worth asking whatthe ‘special prices’ are

Language Norwegians

have two mother tongues,

Bokmål (book language)

and Landsmål or Nyorsk

(based on Old Norse

dialects) Bokmål is the

commonest, but it’s not

Trang 15

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Sandnes n S

Flåm åm m

ter Øst Ø

16

22 2 22 2

17 22

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KragerøKr

nesdal

Kviin iiiiin

mstad Griim s

istiansand K Kristi

K ss isti K Kr K Kri

Lillehammerrrrr

N Nu N

OppdalO

H

H mmelvikHeimdal

Støren

Undersåker

Hjerkinn Hj Kongsvold K

OsO

SärnaSÄlvrosÄ

Hedevikenedeevikeeve kekHedeFunäsdalen

FlatmarkF

KvamHarpefossRingebu

olldal

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Otta

oa a Sjo oa Hundorp orp p Lå gg

22

6

16 6

16 6 19

18

21

17 18 19

18 19

19

Y A

urdal Au Aur

6 16 1 16

S W E D E N

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N O R W A Y

BA L E S T R A N D

Kvikne’s Hotel This long-established hotel, by

the fjord in the resort of Balestrand, is a plushaffair distinguished by an ornate woodcarvedlounge in the Viking style

N Postbox 24, N-6898 Balestrand Map p14 C3 § 57

` 57 69 42 01 0 b,l,d Rooms 210 kkk

AU R DA L

Danebu Kongsgård & Hytter Deep in the

countryside, this is a great place to unwind, withrooms in the lodge and in 14 surrounding cabins

N N-2910 Aurdal Map p15 E3 § 61 35 76 00

Rooms 32.kkALTA

Altafjord Hotell This sprawling modern complex

incorporates traditional turf-roofed buildings and

Å Rorbu At the southern tip of the Lofoten

Islands, the beautiful village of Å boasts this

group of old and new fishing huts with

stupendous sea views Prior booking essential

N Å i Lofoten, N-8392 Sørvågen Map p14 A2 § 76 09

Grand Hotel Bellevue Despite its austere

modern exterior, this long-established hotel,surrounded by mountains and almost on the bank

of the Romdalsfjord, has a well-justifiedreputation as one of the premier places to stay infjord Norway The best rooms are on the upperfloors and offer spectacular views

N N-6301 Åndalsnes Map p15 D1 § 71 22 75 00.

` 71 22 60 38 $ booking@grandhotel.no 0 b,l

/ AE, DC, MC, V kk

Brosundet Gjestehus One of the most popular

places to stay in the Art Nouveau town of

Ålesund is this charming hotel-cum-guesthouse,

which occupies an old wharfside warehouse

down by the main harbour The rooms boast

beamed ceilings, white drapes and pine floors, all

part of a bright and cheerful house style

N Apotekergata 5, N-6004 Ålesund Map p14 C1.

§ 70 12 10 00 ` 70 12 12 95 $ post@

Midtnes Pensjonat Blessed with a lovely

location, on the brow of a hill overlooking the

Sognefjord, this friendly pension is an agreeable

base for exploring the fjords Breakfast, the bestmeal of the day here, is a sumptuous affair witheverything from pickled herring, gherkins andfresh fish through to cornflakes and orange juice

A very popular place for summer weddings

N N-6898 Balestrand Map p14 C3 § 57 69 11 33.

` 57 69 15 84 $ booking@midtnes.no 0 b,d

Rooms 31.∂ ¢ mid-Dec to 3 Jan / Not accepted kk

BA L E S T R A N D

Quality Vica Hotell This cosy hotel has been

decorated in the style of a mountain lodge, with

acres of pine panelling, animal heads on the walls

and a scattering of pretty curios In the restaurant,

the waiters wear national costume and serve up

a tempting range of Lapland delicacies including

cloudberries and caribou, as well as what is

probably the best apple pie in town

N Bossekop, N-9500 Alta Map p14 B2 § 78 43 47 11.

` 78 43 42 99 $ booking@vica.no 0 b,l,d Rooms

ALTA

1 6

Trang 18

N O R W A Y

DO M B Å S

Dombås Hotell This long-established hotel has

gracious public rooms, attentive service and afirst-rate restaurant

N N-2660 Dombås Map p15 E2 § 61 24 10 01.

` 61 24 14 61 $ dombas.hotel@online.nl 0 b,l,d

Rooms 78.kkk

BE R G E N

Skansen Pensjonat A pretty pension in an old

townhouse just above the funicular, providingsimple accommodation at reasonable rates

N Vetrlidsallmenningen 29, N-5014 Bergen

Map p14 C3 § 55 31 90 80 ` 55 31 15 27

$ mail@skansen-pensjonat.no 0 b Rooms 11 kk

BE R G E N

Grand Hotel Terminus Charming 1920s hotel

by the train station, complete with period

furnishings and acres of wood panelling

N Zander Kaaesgate 6, PO Box 1100, N-5809 Bergen

Map p14 C3 § 55 21 25 01 ` 55 31 85 76

0 b,l,d (groups only, in July) Rooms 131 kkk

BE R G E N

Crowded House The liveliest of Bergen’s

guesthouses, close to the city centre Guests have

access to self-catering facilities

N Håkonsgaten 27, N-5015 Bergen Map p14 C3 § 55

23 13 10 ` 55 90 72 01 $ info@crowded-house.com

0 self-catering Rooms 34 kk

Hotel Mundal Few hotels can match the instant

appeal of the Mundal, whose Victorian façadenestles beside the fjord with the mountains risingsteeply behind Inside are nooks and cranniesdripping with antiques and fishing memorabilia

Tasty meals are served in a spacious dining roomthat appears to have changed little in decades

N N-6848 Fjærland Map p14 C2 § 57 69 31 01.

` 57 69 31 79 $ hotelmundal@fjordinfo.no

0 b,l,d Rooms 35 ∂ ¢ mid-Sept to mid-May.

/ AE, DC, MC, V kk

Fjærland Fjordstue Hotell Tiny, unspoilt

Fjærland was one of the last of the fjord villages

to be connected to the road system The publicrooms and bedrooms of this attractive guesthouseare smart and cheerful The loggia doubles as asun-lounge and fjord vantage point Breakfastfeatures the best of Norwegian ingredients

Hotel Dalen The fairytale-like Dalen, one of

southern Norway’s finest country hotels, was built

in 1894 in the so-called ‘dragon-style’ inspired by

Norway’s medieval stave churches Outside are

gables and galleries, dragon heads and gargoyles;

the period interior, with its leather upholstery and

stained glass, is splendid too

N Box 123, N-3880, Dalen, Telemark Map p15 D4.

§ 35 07 70 00 ` 35 07 70 11 $ dalenhaa@

/ AE, DC, MC, V kkk

Hotel Park Pension Long-established small hotel

in two buildings on the edge of Bergen’s town

centre, and especially handy for the university

Everything is well-considered, from the attractive

façade with its high-pitched gables and iron

balconies, through to the pastel colours of the

plush interior A popular place, so book ahead

N Harald Hårfagresgate 35, N-5007 Bergen

Trang 19

Hjerkinn Fjellstue In the remote windswept

moors of central Norway is this homely lodge,

a comforting place of open fires and cheerfully

modern pine furniture The restaurant serves

delicious reindeer steak, culled from local

herds, and the seafood is equally tasty Guides

are provided for elk and musk-ox safaris and

there’s horse-riding too

N N-2661 Hjerkinn Map p15 E2 § 61 24 29 27.

` 61 24 29 49 $ anne.ekre@hjerkinn.no 0 b,l,d

Rooms 26.∂ ¢ Christmas / AE, DC, MC, V kk

Kongsvold Fjeldstue The inn at Kongsvold has

been sheltering travellers and pilgrims on thegreat north road between Oslo and Trondheimsince the closing years of the 17th century Thepresent incarnation has discretely and verytastefully adapted the old wooden buildings thatcomprise the complex, even down to the tinkers’

hut beyond the picket fence

N Kongsvold, N-7340 Oppdal Map p15 E2 § 72 40 43

Rooms 32.∂ ¢ Nov to Jan / DC, MC, V kk

GR I M S TA D

Grimstad Hotell A clever conversion of several

old timber buildings makes this a distinctivehotel Ibsen worked at the Grimstad chemists’

N Kirkegaten 3, N-4878 Grimstad Map p15 D5

§ 37 25 25 25 ` 37 25 25 35 0 b,l,d

kk-kkk

GE I L O

Solli Hotel Geilo is Norway’s winter sports

capital and this neat, modern hotel is a veryconvenient place to stay – it is sited just 100mfrom the nearest ski piste

N Skurdalsvegen 25, N-3580 Geilo Map p15 D3 § 32

FL Å M

Fretheim Hotell The Flåm railway provides a

superb introduction to the fjords; this comfortable

hotel is just across from the station

N N-5742 Flåm Map p15 D3 § 57 63 22 00.

` 57 63 64 00 $ mail@fretheim-hotel.no 0 b,l,d

kkk

EI D F J O R D

Eidfjord Hotel No frills, no fuss, in this smart,

modern hotel on a hill in the heart of the fjords

The mountain views are spectacular

N N-5783 Eidfjord Map p15 D3 § 53 66 52 64

` 53 66 52 12 $ eidfjordhotel@produktnett.no

0 b,l,d Rooms 28 kk

Sygard Grytting One would not guess this

antique farmstead nestling among orchardsjust north of Hundorp is a guesthouse The18th-century farm buildings have survived almost intact and have been carefully modified

to accommodate visitors during the summermonths The main house has the best bedrooms

N Harpefoss, N-2647 Sør-Fron Map p15 E2

§ 61 29 85 88 ` 61 29 85 10 $ post@grytting.com

0 b,l (groups only),d (by arrangement) Rooms 7.

∂ ¢ mid-June to mid-Aug / V kkk

Heimly Pensjonat Twisting its way down the

Flåm valley, the narrow-gauge Flåm railway drops

900m (3,000ft) in 20km (14 miles) It’s one of

Europe’s most exhilarating train journeys and, at

the bottom in the hamlet of Flåm, is the Heimly

Pensjonat This unassuming and well-maintained

pension overlooks the fjord and has an informal,

low-key public area

N N-5742 Flåm Map p15 D3 § 57 63 23 00 ` 57 63

Rooms 23.∂ ¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V kk

Trang 20

Ullensvang Gjesteheim Rarely does a hotel

blend into its surroundings as delightfully as thisone, sheltering in a little dell beside a gurglingstream The whitewashed wooden lodge issurrounded by attractive farm buildings Inside,the public rooms are strewn with antiques

Bedrooms are plainer, but entirely satisfactory

N N-5781 Lofthus, Hardanger Map p14 A2.

§ 53 66 12 36 ` 53 66 15 19

$ ullensvang.gjesteheim@czi.net 0 b,l,d / AE, DC,

Villa Frobusdal Hotel Hidden away beside

the town’s ring road, this extraordinary hotel

occupies an appealing shipowner’s mansion

built in 1917 The interior boasts a wonderful

assortment of antiques and some rare wood

panelling alive with dragons and snakes The

light-filled bedrooms are charming

Rafoss Hotel There has been an inn on this spot

since the 1800s The old house is now attached to

a modern annexe, where rooms have river views

N N-4480 Kvinesdal Map p14 C5 § 38 35 03 88

` 38 35 09 66 0 b, d (by arrangement)

Rooms 18.kk

HE L L E S Y LT

Grand Hotel Built in 1871, the Grand is a

well-established favourite of visitors to fjordcountry Recently refurbished

N P.O Box 73, N-6218 Hellesylt Map p15 D2

§ 70 26 51 00 ` 70 26 52 22 $ grandhotel.hellesylt

GU DVA N G E N

Gudvangen Fjordtell Unusual modern hotel

built in traditional Norwegian style Huddle of

circular log buildings roofed with turf

N N-5717 Gudvangen Map p15 D3 § 57 63 39 29.

` 57 63 39 80 $ fjordtel@online.no 0 b,l,d

Rooms 27.kk

GROT L I

Grotli Høyfjellshotel A mountain lodge with a

warm and welcoming pine interior At 900m

(3,000ft) above sea level, there are opportunities

for summer skiing, hiking and whitewater rafting

N N-2695 Grotli Map p15 D2 § 61 21 74 74 ` 61

21 74 75 $ mail@grotli.no 0 b,l,d Rooms 53 kk

Kjøbmandsgaarden Hotel Norway has not

got many long sandy beaches; Mandal, a seasideresort on the south coast, has the country’slongest Cosy and intimate, this friendly family-run hotel is squeezed into the narrow streets atthe heart of the little town Rooms are bright andmodern, and there is a very good restaurantoffering traditional cuisine

N St Elvegate 57, N-4517 Mandal Map p15 D5.

§ 38 26 12 76 ` 38 26 33 02 0 b,l,d Rooms 12.

¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V kk

Hotel Norge This glamorous hotel is one of the

most celebrated on Norway’s peaceful south

coast Decorative highlights include the stained

glass, the elegant banqueting hall and the suite

where the Spanish King Alfonso XIII stayed in

1931 The restaurant serves the freshest of

seafood and breakfasts are lavish banquets

N Strandgaten 3, N-4790 Lillesand Map p15 D5

Trang 21

N O R W A Y

2 0

Hotel Continental One of Oslo’s most

prestigious hotels, the Continental boastssumptuous public rooms furnished in grand stylewith elegant chandeliers and acres of parquetflooring Ideally located, footsteps from Oslo’smain street Of its several bars and restaurants,the Theatercaféen is the most popular

N Stortingsgaten 24/26, N-0117 Oslo Map p15 E4

§ 22 82 40 00 ` 22 42 96 89 $

Repvåg Fjord Hotell og Rorbusenter The long

road to the northern tip of Norway, Nordkapp,

is known to thousands of tourists Few turn down

the country road leading to this remote fishing

and trading station, where ancient wooden shacks

have been turned into an atmospheric hotel

Rooms are in the main building or in cabins

N N-9768 Repvåg, Nordkapp Map p14 B2

§ 78 47 54 40 ` 78 47 27 51

$ post@repvag-fjordhotel.no 0 b,l,d Rooms 77.

¢ Nov to Mar / AE, DC, MC, V kk

Frogner House Hotel This handsome Victorian

building is located in one of Oslo’s smartest areas,2km (1 miles) from the town centre Strippedwood and thick carpets are the order of the day,but each of the bedrooms is different The besthave balconies overlooking the street; the largeattic room is a honeymooners’ favourite

N Skovveien 8, N-0257 Oslo Map p15 E4

§ 22 56 00 56 ` 22 56 05 00

$ mail@ frognerhouse.com 0 b, d Rooms 60.

∂ ¢ Christmas, Easter / AE, DC, MC, V kkk

OS L O

Bårdshaug Herregård In the old copper-mining

town of Orkanger, the erstwhile manor house

of Christian Thams, one of Norway’s most

successful entrepreneurs, has been turned into

this plush hotel A string of Scandinavian

monarchs have spent the night in the all-timber

‘Royal Room’, which dates back to Thams

N N-7300 Orkanger Map p15 E1 § 72 47 99 00.

Fru Haugans Hotel Break the journey on the

long road to northern Norway at this spacioushotel, parts of which date back to the 1790s

N N-8651 Mosjøen Map p14 A3 § 75 11 41 00.

` 75 11 41 01 $ res@fruhaugans.no 0 b,l,d

kk

Meyergården Hotell One of northern Norway’s

most enjoyable hotels: an imaginative mix of oldand new, plus fjord views from the upper floors

N Fr Nansensgt 28, N-8601 Mo-i-Rana Map p14 A3.

§ 75 13 40 00 ` 75 13 40 01 $ meyergarden@meyergarden.no 0 b,l,d Rooms 150 kk

LO M

Fossheim Turisthotell In the small town of Lom

is a wonderful stave church This excellent hotel

has rooms in the main lodge and in cabins

N N-2686 Lom Map p15 D2 § 61 21 95 00.

` 61 21 95 01 $ resepjon@fossheimhotel.no 0 b,l,d

kkk

LO E N

Hotel Alexandra Within easy striking distance of

the Jostedalsbreen glacier, this large, ritzy hotel

offers fine dining and ultra-modern rooms

N N-6789 Loen Map p15 D2 § 57 87 50 50.

` 57 87 50 51 $ alex@alexandra.no 0 b,l,d

Rooms 191.kkkk

Trang 22

N O R W A Y 2 1

Solstrand Fjord Hotel The Schau-Larsen family

run this refined and elegant hotel with an eye todetail The furnishings are smart and modern, thecolours warm and inviting, and the groundsneatly manicured There’s a spa and a choice ofbathing here too, either in the swimming pool or

in the blue-grey waters of the Bjørnefjorden

N Postbox 54, N-5201 Os per Bergen Map p14 C3 §

0 b,l,d Rooms 135 S ÷ ∂ ¢ Christmas, New

Gabelshus Hotell Owned by the same family

since it was opened in 1912, this is a firm

favourite with many regular visitors to Oslo The

hotel’s immaculately maintained interior – a major

expansion is under way – is graced by an eclectic

collection of antiques, such as monks’ seats,

candelabra and ornate fireplaces

N Gabels gate 16, N-0272 Oslo Map p15 E4

§ 23 27 65 00 ` 23 27 65 60.$ reception@

/ AE, DC, MC, V kkk

Østerbo Fjellstove This smart, well-maintained

mountain lodge lies at the start of the celebratedAurlandsdal valley walk and is a favouritewith hikers Most of the rooms are in the mainlodge; there is additional accommodation incabins on the grounds, and in an old medievalstorehouse The last is a charming affair of warmwood and narrow bunkbeds

N Østerbo, N-5745 Aurland Map p15 D3

§ 57 63 11 77 ` 57 63 11 52 $ oesterbo@c2i.net

0 b,l,d Rooms 42 ¢ Nov to Apr / V k

Nobel House Hotell It is close to several of the

city’s best restaurants and museums, and the

decor is superb too – a smooth and eye-catching

blend of tradition and modernity Imaginative

touches include the magnificent fireplace in the

lounge area and the angel painted on the inside

of the lift Lovely roof terrace

N Kongens Gate 5, N-0153 Oslo Map p15 E4.

Rondane Høyfjellshotell Hotel-spa-leisure

complex in the hills around Otta, and near thetreeless steppes of Rondane National Park

N N-2675 Otta Map p15 E2 § 61 23 39 33

` 61 23 39 52 $ hotel@rondane.no 0 b,l,d

Rooms 50.kk-kkk

OS L O

Rica Hotel Bygdøy Alle With its forest of spires

and towers, the High Victorian façade is splendid

N Bygdøy Allé 53, N-0265 Oslo Map p15 E4.

§ 23 08 58 00 ` 22 08 58 08

$ rica.hotel.bygdoy.alle@rica.no 0 b,l,d Rooms 57.

kkk

City Hotel This modest but endearing hotel is

located above shops and offices in a traditional

Oslo apartment block near the train station

Friendly, informal atmosphere; helpful staff

N Skippergaten 19, N-0106 Oslo Map p15 E4.

§ 22 41 36 10 ` 22 42 24 29 0 b Rooms 52 kk

NA RV I K

Breidablikk Gjestehus Narvik is short of good

accommodation; this modest but well-tended

guesthouse offers great views over the harbour

N Tore Hundsgt 41, N-8514 Narvik Map p14 A2

§ 76 94 14 18 ` 76 94 57 86 $ post@breidablikk.no

0 b,l Rooms 22 kk

Trang 23

N O R W A Y

2 2

Sjoa Gjestehus Whitewater rafters keen to brave

the River Sjoa flock to this guesthouse everysummer weekend Some fill the dormitories at thebottom of the hill, others prefer the spacious ensuite chalet rooms and apartments above Theyall meet in the 18th-century farmhouse, where thedining room has an open fire and log walls

N N-2670 Sjoa Map p15 D2 § 61 23 62 00

` 61 23 60 14 0 b, d (by arrangement) Rooms 6,

plus 6 dormitories sleeping 6–10 people

∂ ¢ Oct to mid-May / MC, V k

Hotel Union In the late 19th century, European

aristocrats gathered at the Hotel Union to fish for

salmon and hike the hills These halcyon days are

recalled by the hotel’s interior, in which every

room is crammed with carefully chosen antiques

Fans of novelist Karen Blick, will enjoy seeing a

pair of her lover’s boots

N Øye, N-6196 Norangsfjorden Map p14 C2.

§ 70 06 21 00 ` 70 06 21 16

$ post@unionoye.no 0 b,l,d Rooms 27.

∂ ¢ Oct to Apr / AE, DC, MC, V kkk

Walaker Hotel Facing the exquisite Urnes stave

church across the narrow Lusterfjord is the littleWalaker, owned and operated by the same familysince 1690 In summer, the hotel gallery featuresexhibitions of contemporary art and the delightfulgarden is awash with roses Most of the roomsoverlook the fjord and the garden

N N-6879 Solvorn, Sognefjord Map p15 D3

§ 57 68 20 80 ` 57 68 20 81 $ hotel@walaker.com

0 b,d Rooms 23 ∂ ¢ end Sept to end Apr.

/ DC, MC, V kkk

SO LVO R N

Preikestolen Vandrerhjem Simple lodgings in a

magnificent setting Built in traditional Norwegian

style, these timber chalets, with their turf roofs,

occupy a superb location on a steep hill

overlooking a deep-blue lake A good base for

hiking, the famous Pulpit Rock, which features

sheer 600m drops on three sides, is just two

hours’ walk away

Sjusjøen Høyfjellshotell Located in the rolling,

forest uplands, this dapper hotel has its ownindoor pool Smashing food too

N N-2612, Lillehammer, Sjusjøen Map p15 E3

§ 62 34 76 70 ` 62 34 76 71 $

post@sjusjoen-0 b,l,d Rooms 7post@sjusjoen-0 kk

Selje Hotel If it’s a remote location you’re after,

look no further than Selje, a tiny west coastfishing village This attractive wood and stonehotel is at the heart of the village Health facilities

N N-6740 Selje Map p14 D2 § 57 85 88 80 ` 57 85

SA N D N E S

Kronen Gaard Hotell This venerable hotel

prides itself on its scenic fjord country

surroundings and intimate atmosphere

N Vatne, N-4309 Sandnes Map p14 C5.

§ 51 62 14 00 ` 51 62 20 23 $

galt@kronen-0 b,l,d Rooms 34 kk

Gloppen Hotell Many visitors return to the

Gloppen year after year The 1860s hotel is one

of the most attractive in the fjord region

N N-6823 Sandane Map p14 C2 § 57 86 53 33.

` 57 86 60 02 $ post@gloppenhotell.no 0 b,l,d

Rooms 40.kk

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N O R W A Y 2 3

Ulvik Fjord Pensjonat There’s nothing grand or

pretentious about this welcoming family-runguesthouse The rooms are decorated in simplemodern style (the most appealing overlook theHardangerfjord) and breakfast is served in anopen-plan dining room The best time to visit isthe spring when the orchards on the surroundinghills are engulfed by pinky-white apple blossom

N Postboks 33, N-5731 Ulvik Map p14 C3 § 56 52 61

70.` 56 52 61 60 $ ulvikfjordpensjonat@ulvik.org

0 b,l,d Rooms 19.S ÷ ∂ ¢ Nov / MC, V kk

Skagen Brygge Hotel This first-rate, modern

hotel, perched on the water’s edge in the oil-rich

town of Stavanger, is built in the style of a

wharfside warehouse The rooms are smart and

neat and most provide views over the harbour

Breakfasts are superb and in the early evening a

tasty range of free snacks is available at the bar

N Skagen 30, N-4006 Stavanger Map p14 C5.

§ 51 85 00 00 ` 51 85 00 01 $ booking@

/ AE, DC, MC, V kkk

Fleischer’s Hotel One of Norway’s premier

hotels and an ideal base for exploring the fjords,Fleischer’s is a real delight The lakeside setting ischarming and the restaurant outstanding Themodern rooms are extremely comfortable andcheerfully decorated Supremely helpful andefficient staff make the place even more special

N Evangervegen 13, N-5700 Voss Map p14 C3 § 56

0 b,l,d Rooms 90 S ∂ ¢ Christmas.

/ AE, DC, MC, V kkk

Turtagrø The modest exterior belies its

handsome interior Solid pine walls, decorated

with photos dating from 1900, and furnished in

Scandinavian style The restaurant is a favourite

haunt of mountaineers, who rest up here after

climbing the majestic peaks of the Jotunheimen

National Park Prior booking essential

Utne Hotel Sitting prettily by the jetty in the

Hardangerfjord, this is one of Norway’s oldestand quaintest hotels, dating back to 1722 Nextdoor is an excellent folk museum

N N-5779 Utne Map p14 C3 § 53 66 64 00 ` 53 66

TRO M S Ø

Rica Ishavshotel This stylish, ultra-modern

establishment sits on the harbour’s edge inTromsø centre Magnificent views

N Fr Langesgate 2, N-9252 Tromsø Map p14 B2

§ 77 66 64 00 ` 77 66 64 44 $ rica.ishavshotel

ST RY N

Stryn Hotel Stryn is a place of extraordinary

natural beauty Take a helicopter flight over

Nordfjord or go on a guided glacier walk

N Visnesvegen 1, N-6783 Stryn Map p14 C2

§ 57 87 07 00 ` 57 87 07 01 $ post@strynhotel.no

0 b,l,d Rooms 69 kkk

SN Å S A

Snåsa Hotell Rural, agricultural Norway is seen

to good advantage at the Snåsa, a modern

establishment in a fertile valley at the end of a

lovely lake Bedrooms are spacious

N N-7760 Snåsa Map p14 A3 § 74 15 10 57 ` 74 15

Trang 27

S W E D E N

2 6

Gripsholms Värdshus, page 33, Mariefred’s delightful old inn

SWEDEN IS traditionally regarded

as an expensive country to

visit, but recent changes in

exchange rates means it is

presently more affordable than

usual For many tourists

visiting for the first time, it

may come as a surprise that

the country has so many

beautiful hotels Often these

have been converted from

historic buildings such as castles,

mountain lodges, medieval inns and 18th-century manor houses They can provide excellent accommodation in beautiful surroundings Many of the best places are members of two hotel marketing organisations:

the Countryside Hotels and the Historiska Hotell groups In Stockholm – which was European City of Culture in 1999 – we also have some exceptional entries

SWEDEN CANbe divided

into five regions: south,

southwest, central, north

and far north

South and Southwest

These regions are relatively

flat Apart from the capital, the

main towns are Gothenburg,

Malmö and Helsingborg

Gothenburg has an elegant

city hotel, a useful first stop

before heading for the

region’s attractive beach

resorts, often based around

old, fortified towns The Baltic

islands of Öland and Gotland

are both popular, relaxed

beach holiday places –

relatively uncrowded, with

attractive seaside hotels

Stockholm, Sweden’s

capital, makes a welcome

urban interlude It mixes

brutalist modern design with

medieval and Beaux-Artsarchitecture, and its reputationfor open-mindedness is wellfounded There are woodsand water on its doorstep and

an archipelago of islands aferry ride away

Central and North

The forest and fjords don’tbegin until you get some wayfarther north of the capital,and here there are manyexcellent places to stay –many in beautifully remotesettings – served by the mainhighways or the ‘InlandRailroad’ The choice rangesfrom an inn built on the site

of a Carthusian monastery tomanor houses dating from the16th century and countryhouse hotels in peaceful lake-side settings These last areflourishing concerns, withtremendous atmosphere andvery good food Many have adual personality: in summer

they offer walking,windsurfing, fishingand boating; inwinter, cross-countryskiing The wintermonths, especiallyaround Christmas, are

a sensible time forbreaks if you can put

up with the shortdays, as are May andSeptember, becausethere are fewermosquitoes than inJuly and August

Far North

The tundra and forest

of the far north,above the ArcticCircle, is the home ofthe nomadic Sami people InJune and July it neverproperly gets dark Herehotels are few and farbetween; among them is theultimate one-off hotel, the IceHotel near Kiruna, whichoperates in winter, carvedeach year out of ice In fact,it’s more comfortable thanyou might imagine and ispopular for weddings andchristenings Its phonenumber is (0980) 668 00

HOTELS ILLUSTRATEDonthese introductory pages are by no means theonly highlights Other favour-ites include Stockholm’sMälardrottningen, convertedfrom heiress Barbara Hutton’sformer yacht (page 35); and

36), a much-loved familyproperty run, amazingly,

by more than 20 generations

Trang 28

S W E D E N 2 7

BOAR AND BERRIESare the

traditional staples of

Swedish food, the former

roasted or made into sausages,

berry), served with fresh

cream or ice cream Meatballs

with gravy and cranberry

sauce, and gravad lax – raw

salmon marinated with dill

and served with mustard

dressing – are also delicious

The standard of food in the

hotels listed here is generally

very high, and will include

game in season, along with

international dishes

The only drawback is the

expense You may find that

after a few days of hotel

dining that stocking up for

a picnic lunch becomes a

necessity Lunch at a

rest-aurant is usually not as

expensive as dinner,

espec-ially if you go for the set

Another economical option

is the smörgåsbord served at

lunchtime in restaurants or

hotels – a mouthwatering

all-you-can-eat collation of

herring, cooked meats,

hard-boiled eggs, potato, salads,

desserts and fruit

Alcohol is also notoriously

expensive in Sweden The

beer served in bars is classed

according to strength Class

III or starköl is the strongest,

weaker is class II or folköl,

and the class 1 beer, lättöl,

is virtually alcohol-free –

and great for drivers There

is zero tolerance of

drink-driving in this country and

a few glasses of wine with

dinner followed by a brandy

could take you over the

limit to drive, even the

following morning Outside

bars and restaurants, class III

beers can only be bought

from government liquor

stores – whose Swedish

name is Systembolaget

Akvavit, a herb-flavoured

spirit, is traditionally served

ice-cold with beer chasers –

a potent combination

Swedes eat lunch from

11am onwards (generally

finishing by 2pm) Dinner

starts from around 6pm and

restaurants close from

so some hotels,including largerchains, areswitching to anti-allergenicbedding and biodegradeablecleaning products As well assparkling bathrooms, manyplaces will have a sauna(usually open

brown mesost, hams, yogurt,

muesli, an array of rye and

‘black’ breads, crispbreadsand fruit The standard ofhousekeeping is outstanding:

everything is immaculatelyclean, and it works Duringthe summer business shut-down hotel prices dropconsiderably Year-round,luxury hotels become muchmore affordable at theweekend, when substantialdiscounts (often 40–50 percent on the usual room rate)come into effect Ask whatthe ‘special prices’ are

Language Swedes are true

polyglots and often sound likenative speakers of whicheverlanguage they are using –including English

Currency The Swedish

krona, written ‘SEK’.

Shops Open 9am–6pm Mon–

Fri, and 9am–1pm Sat(department stores till 4pm)

Large shops in the cities aresometimes open until 8 or10pm and on Sunday

Tipping Hotel room rates and

restaurant menu prices areinclusive of service charges

Tipping isn’t expected, but ifbills come to an odd amountthey are often rounded up to

the nearest 10Kr, or you canleave a tip of around 10 percent if you want to

Telephoning As well as the

usual call boxes there areTurist Telefon payphones insummer in the major cities,offering half-price calls Tomake a phone call withinSweden, dial the full number

To phone Sweden from the

UK, dial the internationalcode 00 46, then the phonenumber, omitting the initialzero; from the US, dial 011 46

Public holidays 1 January;

6 January; Good Friday andEaster Monday; 1 May;

Ascension Day; Whit Monday;

Midsummer’s Day;

1 November; 24, 25 and 26December

SWEDISH HOTELSare classified

by stars, from one to five,but don’t be too swayed bythis Our price bands aresimpler, and as elsewhere inthe guide refer to the price of

a standard double room inhigh season (but don’t forget

to ask about discounts, whichcan be substantial) Breakfast isusually included in the roomrate; prices include all taxes

Trang 29

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Trang 31

Krägga Herrgård Beauty is the keynote of

this stylish manor house, filled to the brim withfresh flowers and lovely antiques In the diningroom, seasonal dishes echo the surroundings –each plate is a little masterpiece Total seclusion,deep in the forest at the lake’s edge, yet only

40 minutes’ drive from Stockholm and the airport

N SE-746 93 Bålsta Map p29 F2 § (0171) 532 80.

` (0171) 532 65 $ info@kragga.se 0 b,l,d

Rooms 50.z ÷ ∂ ¢ Never

/ AE, DC, MC, V kkkk

Rusthållargården This 17th-century inn, set

in a little fishing hamlet, enjoys stunning sea

v

views Inside is a tasteful mixture of modern and

old-style elegance; rooms are luxurious, and

some have balconies Recent awards include Best

Countryside Hotel, and a place in Sweden’s Best

Table Gorgeous sauna suite, jet-stream Jacuzzi

N SE-260 43 Arild Map p28 C5 § (042) 34 65 30

` (042) 34 67 93 $ receptionen@rusthallargarden.se

0 b,l,d Rooms 63 S ÷ ∂ ¢ Christmas and New

Halltorps Gästgiveri A unique country inn Each

bedroom is designed and decorated by craftsmenfrom the province it represents and has exquisitehand-made furniture Enjoy walks by the sea or inthe nature reserve Return to cosy lounges, openfires and local speciality dishes in one ofSweden’s finest restaurants

N SE-387 92 Borgholm, Öland Map p29 E4.

§ (0485) 85 000 ` (0485) 85 001

$ info@halltorpsgastgiveri.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 41.

÷ ∂ ¢ Never / AE, DC, V kkk

Aspa Herrgård A casual elegance pervades

this unique and exquisitely lovely little manor,

which stands in tranquil parkland by Lake

Vättern In the wings of the house, rooms open

off cosy lounges Superb cuisine and fine wines

are Aspa’s pride, as is attention to every detail for

the comfort of its guests

N SE-696 93 Aspa Bruk Map p29 D2

§ (0583) 502 10 ` (0583) 501 50

$ aspa@edbergs.com 0 b,l,d Rooms 39.

÷ ∂ ¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V kkkk

Sundbyholms Slott Old castle with view over

the marina Baronial dining room, picnics bythe lake, barbecues; sauna on an island

N SE-635 08 Eskilstuna Map p29 E2 § (016) 965 00.

` (016) 965 78 $

hotel.conference@sundbyholms-0 b,l,d Rooms 99 kkk

EK S J Ö

Romantik Hotel Ullinge Traditional style and

pretty, with a main building surrounded bycabins In a forest, on a lake with its own jetty

N SE-575 96, Eksjö Map p29 D3 § (0381) 810 60

` (0381) 810 50 $ info@ ullinge.se 0 b,l,d Rooms

BR Ä C K E

Björknäsgårdens Quaint hotel in northerly

region, rich in history of the old timber trade,

5km (3 miles) from the little town of Bräcke

N Box 188, SE-840 60 Bräcke Map p28 A3

§ (0693) 160 20 ` (0693) 160 80

$ bjorknasgardens@telia.com 0 b,l,d Rooms 27 k

Åhus Gestgivaregård The fine food served

at this rustic canalside inn goes a long way

towards making up for the slight tattiness

N Gamla Skeppsbron 1, SE-296 21 Åhus Map p29 D5.

§ (044) 28 9050 ` (044) 28 9250

$ lasse@ahusgastis.com 0 b,l,d Rooms 17 kkk

Trang 32

Yxtaholm This sumptuous manor stands on a

strip of land between two lakes Patrick Arnekehas built his reputation on the quality andsimplicity of his restaurant Relax in one of thetwo elegant salons with a vintage Calvados fromhis extensive collection, or a refreshing cider,another of the Yxtaholm’s specialities

N SE-6642 91 Flen Map p29 E2 § (0157) 244 40

` (0157) 244 41 $ info@yxtaholmsslott.se 0 b,l,d

Rooms 43.÷ ∂ ¢ Christmas and New Year

/ AE, DC, MC, V kkk

V

Värdshuset i Dala-Floda This wonderful inn has

the air of a Provence farmhouse It boasts its own

painting and dance studios while its corners are

stuffed full of traditional arts and crafts, and

English literature The owners, who’ve travelled

the world, prepare traditional ethnic dishes with

organic local produce – try Cuban elk

N Badvägen 6, SE-780 44 Dala-Floda Map p29 D1.

§ (0241) 220 50 ` (0241) 220 38

$ info@dala-floda.net 0 b,l,d Rooms 17.

÷ ∂ ¢ Jan to Mar / DC, MC, V k.k

Fryksås Hotell och Gestgifveri This unspoilt

mountain inn sits near the small town of Orsa, onthe edge of true wilderness with commandingviews over forest and sea Brown bear, wolves,lynx and elk may all be spotted on arrangedtreks Seasonal game, fish and berries featureheavily on the fine menu Outdoor hot tub

N Fryksås Fäbod, SE-794 98 Orsa Map p28 A3

§ (0250) 460 00 ` (0250) 460 90

$ fryksas.hotell@orsa.mail.utfors.se 0 b,l,d

Rooms 12.÷ ∂ ¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V kk

Stora Hotellet Recently renovated, Stora Hotellet

pays homage to the seafarers of the past –

particularly Captain Klassen, the hotel’s patron

saint This idyllic setting was a favourite of

Swedish actress Ingrid Bergman The bedrooms,

with names such as Mombasa, Sheba and

Columbus, have an international flavour

N Galärbacken SE-450 71 Fjällbacka Map p28 B2

§ (0525) 31003 ` (0525) 31093

$ rec@storahotellet-fjallbacka.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 23.

¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V kkk

GN E S TA

Södertuna Slott Eighteenth-century castle in

idyllic lakeside setting Gorgeous public rooms,afternoon teas and country pursuits

N SE-646 91 Gnesta Map p29 F2 § (0158) 705 00.

` (0158) 705 40 $ info@sodertuna.se 0 b,l,d

Rooms 70.kkkk

FI L I P S TA D

Hennickehammars Herrgård Manor house

jointly owned by two families, with beautiful

grounds and excellent food

N Box 52, SE-682 22 Filipstad Map p29 D1.

§ (0590) 60 85 00 ` (0590) 60 85 05

$ hotel@hennickehammar.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 54 kk

GÖTEBORG

Rederiaktiebolaget Göta Kanal Sail right across

Sweden on one of three charming old steamships

The oldest boat, MS Juno, dates from 1874.

N Tusterviksgatam 13, Box 272, SE-401 24 Göteborg

Map p28 C3.§ (031) 80 63 15 ` (031) 15 83 11

$ bookings@ gotakanal.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 28 kkkk

GE NA R P

Häckeberga Slott An historic castle with a

stupendous setting Packages include a

Trang 33

Hooks Herrgård Elegant golf and leisure

hotel in a manor house where the salons alllook out onto the lake Excellent food

N SE-560 13 Hok Map p29 D3 § (0393) 210 80

` (0393) 215 67 $ hook.herrgard @edberg.com

0 b,l,d Rooms 103 kkkk

HJ Ä R NA R P

Margretetorps Gästgifvaregård Smart, stylish

inn with tasteful rooms off tranquil courtyardwith water garden Noted for its Smörgåsbord

N SE-266 98 Hjärnarp Map p28 C4 § (0431) 45 44 50.

` (0431) 45 48 77 $ info@margretetorp.se

HE S T R A

Hestravikens Wärdshus Country lodge with

excellent food Some rooms have river views

and verandas Pool

N Vik, SE-330 27 Hestra Map p29 D3

§ (0370) 33 68 00 ` (0370) 33 62 90

$ info@hestraviken.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 40 kkk

GRY T H Y T TA N

Loka Brunn This luxurious 18th-century royal

spa is like a little village in the forest, offering

total pampering Museum on spa history

N SE-712 94 Grythyttan Map p29 D1 § (0591) 631

Havsbaden This old spa hotel in a fishing village,

lovingly restored, offers a very warm welcome

Seasonal local food, such as smoked eel, is aspeciality The sea views, space, and tastefulrooms are a delight Explore nature, take a ferry

to the islands, or enjoy a fishing trip

N SE-760 45 Grisslehamn Map p29 F1

§ (0175) 309 30 ` (0175) 330 14

$ info@hotell-havsbaden.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 50.

÷ ∂ ¢ Christmas; some Suns Nov-Jan

/ AE, DC, MC, V kk

Gimo Herrgård A grand hotel occupying an

18th-century manor house set in the forests of

Northern Roslagen, north of Stockholm On or

close to the premises, enjoy golf, clay-pigeon

shooting, wine-tastings, sauna, rowing, canoeing,

cycling and walking – and after all that activity,

just luxuriate in the first-class restaurant

N SE 747 02 Gimo Map p29 F1 § (0173) 889 00

` (0173) 408 38 $ info@gimoherrgard.se 0 b,l,d

Rooms 67.∂ ÷ ¢ 24 to 27 Dec / AE, DC, MC, V

kkk

Grythyttans Gästgivaregård It’s one of the

most atmospheric old inns in all of Sweden – almost like a little village all by itself, with rooms

in several separate buildings and many old salonsand cosy parlours The former dungeon nowhouses more than 450 fine wines to complementthe international gourmet menu

N Prästgatan 2, SE-712 81 Grythyttan Map p29 D1.

§ (0591) 147 00 ` (0591) 141 24

$ info@grythyttan.com 0 b,l,d Rooms 69.

∂ ¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V kkkk

Eggers One of Sweden’s oldest hotels, the Eggers

still evokes a bygone elegance and remains the

stylish place to stay in Göteborg Superb old

double glazing maintains peace in the spacious

rooms, just a stone’s throw from the train, tram

and bus stations

N Drottningtorget, Box 323, SE-401 25 Göteborg

Map p28 C3.§ (031) 80 60 70 ` (031) 15 42 43

$ hotel.eggers@telia.com 0 b,l,d

Rooms 67.¢ Christmas / AE, DC, MC, V

kkkk

Trang 34

Sunds Herrgård An idyllic country retreat in the

heart of the beautiful lakeland scenery ofSmåland, with its own wildlife park

N SE 560 28 Lekeryd Map p29 D3 § (036) 820 06.

` (036) 821 40 $ info@sundsherrgard.se 0 b,l,d

Rooms 60.kkk

LAG A N

Toftaholm Herrgård A warm welcome awaits

in this pretty, 600-year-old family-run manorhouse with lake views, sauna and Jacuzzi

N Toftaholm, SE-340 14 Lagan Map p29 D4

§ (0370) 440 55 ` (0370) 440 45 $ frontoffice@

KA L M A R

Slottshotellet A 19th-century seaman’s house

offering old world charm in historic town with

castle Personal service and good food

N Slottsvägen 7, SE-392 33 Kalmar Map p29 E4.

§ (0480) 882 60 ` (0480) 882 66 $ info@

JÄ RV S Ö

Järvsöbaden A very personal welcome in a

charming family-run hotel with lovely gardens

Good, traditional food; nine-hole golf course

N Box 43, SE-820 40 Järvsö Map p28 A3.

§ (0651) 404 00 ` (0651) 414 37

$ infor@jarvsobaden.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 44 kk

Grand Hotell Marstrand Less than an hour from

Göteborg, leave your car behind and take theferry to this timeless island The porter collectsyou on the quay Sumptuous rooms, some withbalconies looking onto the bandstand andharbour beyond Eat delicious seafood in thepopular veranda restaurant Enchanting

N Rådhusgatan 2, SE-440 30 Marstrand Map p28 B3

§ (0303) 603 22 ` (0303) 600 53

$ info@grandmarstrand.se 0 b,d Rooms 22 ∂ ¢

Gripsholms Värdshus and Hotel In the tranquil

old town of Mariefred, enjoy unashamed luxuryand informal hospitality at this divine old inn

Exquisite food, and wine tastings in the oldmonastery below In summer, old steam trainsand boats from Stockholm stop here; at Christmasthere are log fires and skating on the lake

N Kyrkogatan 1, Box 114, SE-647 23 Mariefred

Map p29 E2.§ (0159) 347 50 ` (0159) 347 77

$ info@gripsholms-vardshus.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 45.

÷ ∂ ¢ part of Jan / AE, DC, MC, V kkkk

Thorskogs Slott This gorgeous old castle offers a

totally homely welcome Numerous heads of state

have enjoyed its exquisite Gustavian salons and

dishes from its famous kitchen After drinks in the

flower room, step out onto the terrace for a

barbecue, then enjoy boules on the lawn One of

the best breakfasts in Sweden is served here

N SE-463 93, Västerlanda Map p28 C3

§ (0520) 66 10 00 ` (0520) 66 09 18

$ info@thorskogsslott.se 0 b,l,d Rooms 36.

∂ ¢ July / AE, DC, MC, V kkk

W

Wreta Gestgifveri Cancel all other plans in order

to visit this delightful little pearl, in a hamlet near

Nyköping You are welcomed into the home of

someone who understands the meaning of beauty

and comfort No detail is neglected Delight in

V

Vivaldi on the CD in your room before drinks and

a dinner that lives up to the surroundings

N Wreta Gård H, SE-610 50 Jönåker Map p29 E2

§ (0155) 720 22 ` (0155) 720 32

$ wreta@wreta.com 0 b,l,d Rooms 21.

∂ ¢ Never / AE, MC, V kkkk

Trang 35

Lady Hamilton Just a few steps from the royal

palace in Stockholm’s old town, a friendlyatmosphere, and many fine antiques

N Storkyrkobrinken 5, SE-111 28 Stockholm Map p29

0 b,l,d Rooms, 34 kkkk

STO C K H O L M

Esplanade Faithfully preserved, this Art

Nouveau haven of peace is set back off themain street in a quiet courtyard

N Strandvägen 7A, SE-114 56 Stockholm

Map p29 F2 § (08) 663 07 40 ` (08) 662 59 92

$ hotel@hotelesplanade.se 0 b Rooms 34 kkkk

STO C K H O L M

Clas På Hörnet Old-world style in the heart of

the city Busy dining room, quiet terrace

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