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At least a man must make a double effort of moral humility and imaginative energy to prevent it from narrowing his mind.Indeed there is something touching andeven tragic about the though

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of What I Saw

in America, by G K Chesterton

This eBook is for the use of anyone

anywhere at no cost and with

almost no restrictions whatsoever You may copy it, give it away or

re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

with this eBook or online at

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Produced by Irma pehar, Martin Pettit and the Online

Distributed Proofreading Team at

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America

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Printed in Great Britain by T and A.

Constable Ltd.

at the Edinburgh University Press

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IN THE AMERICAN COUNTRYTHE AMERICAN BUSINESS MAN

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PRESIDENTS AND PROBLEMS

PROHIBITION IN FACT AND FANCYFADS AND PUBLIC OPINION

THE EXTRAORDINARY AMERICANTHE REPUBLICAN IN THE RUINS

IS THE ATLANTIC NARROWING?LINCOLN AND LOST CAUSES

WELLS AND THE WORLD STATE

A NEW MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT

THE SPIRIT OF AMERICA

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THE SPIRIT OF ENGLANDTHE FUTURE OF DEMOCRACY

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What is America?

I have never managed to lose my oldconviction that travel narrows the mind

At least a man must make a double effort

of moral humility and imaginative energy

to prevent it from narrowing his mind.Indeed there is something touching andeven tragic about the thought of thethoughtless tourist, who might have stayed

at home loving Laplanders, embracingChinamen, and clasping Patagonians to hisheart in Hampstead or Surbiton, but for hisblind and suicidal impulse to go and seewhat they looked like This is not meantfor nonsense; still less is it meant for thesilliest sort of nonsense, which is

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cynicism The human bond that he feels athome is not an illusion On the contrary, it

is rather an inner reality Man is inside allmen In a real sense any man may beinside any men But to travel is to leavethe inside and draw dangerously near theoutside So long as he thought of men inthe abstract, like naked toiling figures insome classic frieze, merely as those wholabour and love their children and die, hewas thinking the fundamental truth aboutthem By going to look at their unfamiliarmanners and customs he is inviting them todisguise themselves in fantastic masks andcostumes Many modern internationaliststalk as if men of different nationalities hadonly to meet and mix and understand eachother In reality that is the moment ofsupreme danger—the moment when they

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meet We might shiver, as at the oldeuphemism by which a meeting meant aduel.

Travel ought to combine amusement withinstruction; but most travellers are somuch amused that they refuse to beinstructed I do not blame them for beingamused; it is perfectly natural to beamused at a Dutchman for being Dutch or

a Chinaman for being Chinese Where theyare wrong is that they take their ownamusement seriously They base on it theirserious ideas of international instruction

It was said that the Englishman takes hispleasures sadly; and the pleasure ofdespising foreigners is one which he takesmost sadly of all He comes to scoff anddoes not remain to pray, but rather to

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excommunicate Hence in internationalrelations there is far too little laughing,and far too much sneering But I believethat there is a better way which largelyconsists of laughter; a form of friendshipbetween nations which is actually founded

on differences To hint at some such betterway is the only excuse of this book

Let me begin my American impressionswith two impressions I had before I went

to America One was an incident and theother an idea; and when taken togetherthey illustrate the attitude I mean The firstprinciple is that nobody should beashamed of thinking a thing funny because

it is foreign; the second is that he should

be ashamed of thinking it wrong because it

is funny The reaction of his senses and

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superficial habits of mind againstsomething new, and to him abnormal, is aperfectly healthy reaction But the mindwhich imagines that mere unfamiliaritycan possibly prove anything aboutinferiority is a very inadequate mind It isinadequate even in criticising things thatmay really be inferior to the thingsinvolved here It is far better to laugh at anegro for having a black face than to sneer

at him for having a sloping skull It isproportionally even more preferable tolaugh rather than judge in dealing withhighly civilised peoples Therefore I put

at the beginning two working examples ofwhat I felt about America before I saw it;the sort of thing that a man has a right toenjoy as a joke, and the sort of thing hehas a duty to understand and respect,

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because it is the explanation of the joke.When I went to the American consulate toregularise my passports, I was capable ofexpecting the American consulate to beAmerican Embassies and consulates are

by tradition like islands of the soil forwhich they stand; and I have often foundthe tradition corresponding to a truth Ihave seen the unmistakable French officialliving on omelettes and a little wine andserving his sacred abstractions under thelast palm-trees fringing a desert In theheat and noise of quarrelling Turks andEgyptians, I have come suddenly, as withthe cool shock of his own shower-bath, onthe listless amiability of the Englishgentleman The officials I interviewedwere very American, especially in being

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very polite; for whatever may have beenthe mood or meaning of MartinChuzzlewit, I have always foundAmericans by far the politest people in theworld They put in my hands a form to befilled up, to all appearance like otherforms I had filled up in other passportoffices But in reality it was very differentfrom any form I had ever filled up in mylife At least it was a little like a freerform of the game called 'Confessions'which my friends and I invented in ouryouth; an examination paper containingquestions like, 'If you saw a rhinoceros inthe front garden, what would you do?' One

of my friends, I remember, wrote, 'Takethe pledge.' But that is another story, andmight bring Mr Pussyfoot Johnson on thescene before his time

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One of the questions on the paper was,'Are you an anarchist?' To which adetached philosopher would naturally feelinclined to answer, 'What the devil hasthat to do with you? Are you an atheist?'along with some playful efforts to cross-examine the official about what constitutes

an ρχη [Greek: archê] Then there wasthe question, 'Are you in favour ofsubverting the government of the UnitedStates by force?' Against this I shouldwrite, 'I prefer to answer that question atthe end of my tour and not the beginning.'The inquisitor, in his more than morbidcuriosity, had then written down, 'Are you

a polygamist?' The answer to this is, 'Nosuch luck' or 'Not such a fool,' according

to our experience of the other sex Butperhaps a better answer would be that

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given to W T Stead when he circulatedthe rhetorical question, 'Shall I slay mybrother Boer?'—the answer that ran,'Never interfere in family matters.' Butamong many things that amused me almost

to the point of treating the form thusdisrespectfully, the most amusing was thethought of the ruthless outlaw who shouldfeel compelled to treat it respectfully Ilike to think of the foreign desperado,seeking to slip into America with officialpapers under official protection, andsitting down to write with a beautifulgravity, 'I am an anarchist I hate you alland wish to destroy you.' Or, 'I intend tosubvert by force the government of theUnited States as soon as possible, stickingthe long sheath-knife in my left trouser-pocket into Mr Harding at the earliest

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opportunity.' Or again, 'Yes, I am apolygamist all right, and my forty-sevenwives are accompanying me on the voyagedisguised as secretaries.' There seems to

be a certain simplicity of mind about theseanswers; and it is reassuring to know thatanarchists and polygamists are so pureand good that the police have only to askthem questions and they are certain to tell

no lies

Now that is a model of the sort of foreignpractice, founded on foreign problems, atwhich a man's first impulse is naturally tolaugh Nor have I any intention ofapologising for my laughter A man isperfectly entitled to laugh at a thingbecause he happens to find itincomprehensible What he has no right to

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do is to laugh at it as incomprehensible,and then criticise it as if he comprehended

it The very fact of its unfamiliarity andmystery ought to set him thinking about thedeeper causes that make people sodifferent from himself, and that withoutmerely assuming that they must be inferior

to himself

Superficially this is rather a queerbusiness It would be easy enough tosuggest that in this America has introduced

a quite abnormal spirit of inquisition; aninterference with liberty unknown amongall the ancient despotisms andaristocracies About that there will besomething to be said later; butsuperficially it is true that this degree ofofficialism is comparatively unique In a

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journey which I took only the year before Ihad occasion to have my papers passed bygovernments which many worthy people

in the West would vaguely identify withcorsairs and assassins; I have stood on theother side of Jordan, in the land ruled by arude Arab chief, where the police looked

so like brigands that one wondered whatthe brigands looked like But they did notask me whether I had come to subvert thepower of the Shereef; and they did notexhibit the faintest curiosity about mypersonal views on the ethical basis ofcivil authority These ministers of ancientMoslem despotism did not care aboutwhether I was an anarchist; and naturallywould not have minded if I had been apolygamist The Arab chief was probably

a polygamist himself These slaves of

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Asiatic autocracy were content, in the oldliberal fashion, to judge me by my actions;they did not inquire into my thoughts Theyheld their power as limited to thelimitation of practice; they did not forbid

me to hold a theory It would be easy toargue here that Western democracypersecutes where even Eastern despotismtolerates or emancipates It would be easy

to develop the fancy that, as comparedwith the sultans of Turkey or Egypt, theAmerican Constitution is a thing like theSpanish Inquisition

Only the traveller who stops at that point

is totally wrong; and the traveller only toooften does stop at that point He has foundsomething to make him laugh, and he willnot suffer it to make him think And the

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remedy is not to unsay what he has said,not even, so to speak, to unlaugh what hehas laughed, not to deny that there issomething unique and curious about thisAmerican inquisition into our abstractopinions, but rather to continue the train ofthought, and follow the admirable advice

of Mr H G Wells, who said, 'It is notmuch good thinking of a thing unless youthink it out.' It is not to deny that Americanofficialism is rather peculiar on this point,but to inquire what it really is whichmakes America peculiar, or which ispeculiar to America In short, it is to get

some ultimate idea of what America is;

and the answer to that question will revealsomething much deeper and grander andmore worthy of our intelligent interest

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It may have seemed something less than acompliment to compare the AmericanConstitution to the Spanish Inquisition Butoddly enough, it does involve a truth; andstill more oddly perhaps, it does involve acompliment The American Constitutiondoes resemble the Spanish Inquisition inthis: that it is founded on a creed America

is the only nation in the world that isfounded on a creed That creed is set forthwith dogmatic and even theologicallucidity in the Declaration ofIndependence; perhaps the only piece ofpractical politics that is also theoreticalpolitics and also great literature Itenunciates that all men are equal in theirclaim to justice, that governments exist togive them that justice, and that theirauthority is for that reason just It certainly

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does condemn anarchism, and it does also

by inference condemn atheism, since itclearly names the Creator as the ultimateauthority from whom these equal rights arederived Nobody expects a modernpolitical system to proceed logically inthe application of such dogmas, and in thematter of God and Government it isnaturally God whose claim is taken morelightly The point is that there is a creed, ifnot about divine, at least about humanthings

Now a creed is at once the broadest andthe narrowest thing in the world In itsnature it is as broad as its scheme for abrotherhood of all men In its nature it islimited by its definition of the nature of allmen This was true of the Christian

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Church, which was truly said to excludeneither Jew nor Greek, but which diddefinitely substitute something else forJewish religion or Greek philosophy Itwas truly said to be a net drawing in of allkinds; but a net of a certain pattern, thepattern of Peter the Fisherman And this istrue even of the most disastrousdistortions or degradations of that creed;and true among others of the SpanishInquisition It may have been narrowtouching theology, it could not confess tobeing narrow about nationality orethnology The Spanish Inquisition might

be admittedly Inquisitorial; but theSpanish Inquisition could not be merelySpanish Such a Spaniard, even when hewas narrower than his own creed, had to

be broader than his own empire He might

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burn a philosopher because he washeterodox; but he must accept a barbarianbecause he was orthodox And we see,even in modern times, that the sameChurch which is blamed for making sagesheretics is also blamed for makingsavages priests Now in a much vaguerand more evolutionary fashion, there issomething of the same idea at the back ofthe great American experiment; theexperiment of a democracy of diverseraces which has been compared to amelting-pot But even that metaphorimplies that the pot itself is of a certainshape and a certain substance; a prettysolid substance The melting-pot must notmelt The original shape was traced on thelines of Jeffersonian democracy; and itwill remain in that shape until it becomes

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shapeless America invites all men tobecome citizens; but it implies the dogmathat there is such a thing as citizenship.Only, so far as its primary ideal isconcerned, its exclusiveness is religiousbecause it is not racial The missionarycan condemn a cannibal, preciselybecause he cannot condemn a SandwichIslander And in something of the samespirit the American may exclude apolygamist, precisely because he cannotexclude a Turk.

Now for America this is no idle theory Itmay have been theoretical, though it wasthoroughly sincere, when that greatVirginian gentleman declared it insurroundings that still had something of thecharacter of an English countryside It is

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not merely theoretical now There isnothing to prevent America being literallyinvaded by Turks, as she is invaded byJews or Bulgars In the most exquisitely

inconsequent of the Bab Ballads, we are

told concerning Pasha Bailey Ben:—One morning knocked at half-past eight

A tall Red Indian at his gate

In Turkey, as you 'r' p'raps aware,

Red Indians are extremely rare

But the converse need by no means betrue There is nothing in the nature ofthings to prevent an emigration of Turksincreasing and multiplying on the plainswhere the Red Indians wandered; there isnothing to necessitate the Turks beingextremely rare The Red Indians, alas, arelikely to be rarer And as I much prefer

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Red Indians to Turks, not to mention Jews,

I speak without prejudice; but the pointhere is that America, partly by originaltheory and partly by historical accident,does lie open to racial admixtures whichmost countries would think incongruous orcomic That is why it is only fair to readany American definitions or rules in acertain light, and relatively to a ratherunique position It is not fair to comparethe position of those who may meet Turks

in the back street with that of those who

have never met Turks except in the Bab

Ballads It is not fair simply to compare

America with England in its regulationsabout the Turk In short, it is not fair to dowhat almost every Englishman probablydoes; to look at the American internationalexamination paper, and laugh and be

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satisfied with saying, 'We don't have any

of that nonsense in England.'

We do not have any of that nonsense inEngland because we have never attempted

to have any of that philosophy in England.And, above all, because we have theenormous advantage of feeling it natural to

be national, because there is nothing else

to be England in these days is not wellgoverned; England is not well educated;England suffers from wealth and povertythat are not well distributed But England

is English; esto perpetua England is

English as France is French or IrelandIrish; the great mass of men taking certainnational traditions for granted Now thisgives us a totally different and a verymuch easier task We have not got an

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inquisition, because we have not got acreed; but it is arguable that we do notneed a creed, because we have got acharacter In any of the old nations thenational unity is preserved by the nationaltype Because we have a type we do notneed to have a test.

Take that innocent question, 'Are you ananarchist?' which is intrinsically quite asimpudent as 'Are you an optimist?' or 'Areyou a philanthropist?' I am not discussinghere whether these things are right, butwhether most of us are in a position toknow them rightly Now it is quite truethat most Englishmen do not find itnecessary to go about all day asking eachother whether they are anarchists It isquite true that the phrase occurs on no

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British forms that I have seen But this isnot only because most of the Englishmenare not anarchists It is even more becauseeven the anarchists are Englishmen Forinstance, it would be easy to make fun ofthe American formula by noting that thecap would fit all sorts of bald academicheads It might well be maintained thatHerbert Spencer was an anarchist It ispractically certain that Auberon Herbertwas an anarchist But Herbert Spencerwas an extraordinarily typical Englishman

of the Nonconformist middle class AndAuberon Herbert was an extraordinarilytypical English aristocrat of the old andgenuine aristocracy Every one knew inhis heart that the squire would not throw abomb at the Queen, and the Nonconformistwould not throw a bomb at anybody

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Every one knew that there was somethingsubconscious in a man like AuberonHerbert, which would have come out only

in throwing bombs at the enemies ofEngland; as it did come out in his son andnamesake, the generous and unforgotten,who fell flinging bombs from the sky farbeyond the German line Every one knowsthat normally, in the last resort, theEnglish gentleman is patriotic Every oneknows that the English Nonconformist isnational even when he denies that he ispatriotic Nothing is more notable indeedthan the fact that nobody is more stampedwith the mark of his own nation than theman who says that there ought to be nonations Somebody called Cobden theInternational Man; but no man could bemore English than Cobden Everybody

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recognises Tolstoy as the iconoclast of allpatriotism; but nobody could be moreRussian than Tolstoy In the old countrieswhere there are these national types, thetypes may be allowed to hold anytheories Even if they hold certaintheories, they are unlikely to do certainthings So the conscientious objector, inthe English sense, may be and is one of thepeculiar by-products of England But theconscientious objector will probably have

a conscientious objection to throwingbombs

Now I am very far from intending to implythat these American tests are good tests, orthat there is no danger of tyrannybecoming the temptation of America Ishall have something to say later on about

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that temptation or tendency Nor do I saythat they apply consistently this conception

of a nation with the soul of a church,protected by religious and not racialselection If they did apply that principleconsistently, they would have to excludepessimists and rich cynics who deny thedemocratic ideal; an excellent thing but arather improbable one What I say is thatwhen we realise that this principle exists

at all, we see the whole position in atotally different perspective We say thatthe Americans are doing something heroic,

or doing something insane, or doing it in

an unworkable or unworthy fashion,instead of simply wondering what thedevil they are doing

When we realise the democratic design of

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such a cosmopolitan commonwealth, andcompare it with our insular reliance orinstincts, we see at once why such a thinghas to be not only democratic butdogmatic We see why in some points ittends to be inquisitive or intolerant Anyone can see the practical point by merelytransferring into private life a problemlike that of the two academic anarchists,who might by a coincidence be called thetwo Herberts Suppose a man said,'Buffle, my old Oxford tutor, wants tomeet you; I wish you'd ask him down for aday or two He has the oddest opinions,but he's very stimulating.' It would notoccur to us that the oddity of the Oxforddon's opinions would lead him to blow upthe house; because the Oxford don is anEnglish type Suppose somebody said, 'Do

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let me bring old Colonel Robinson downfor the week-end; he's a bit of a crank butquite interesting.' We should not anticipatethe colonel running amuck with a carving-knife and offering up human sacrifice inthe garden; for these are not among thedaily habits of an old English colonel; andbecause we know his habits, we do notcare about his opinions But supposesomebody offered to bring a person fromthe interior of Kamskatka to stay with usfor a week or two, and added that hisreligion was a very extraordinary religion,

we should feel a little more inquisitiveabout what kind of religion it was Ifsomebody wished to add a Hairy Ainu tothe family party at Christmas, explainingthat his point of view was so individualand interesting, we should want to know a

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little more about it and him We should betempted to draw up as fantastic anexamination paper as that presented to theemigrant going to America We should askwhat a Hairy Ainu was, and how hairy hewas, and above all what sort of Ainu hewas Would etiquette require us to ask him

to bring his wife? And if we did ask him

to bring his wife, how many wives would

he bring? In short, as in the Americanformula, is he a polygamist? Merely as apoint of housekeeping and accommodationthe question is not irrelevant Is the HairyAinu content with hair, or does he wearany clothes? If the police insist on hiswearing clothes, will he recognise theauthority of the police? In short, as in theAmerican formula, is he an anarchist?

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Of course this generalisation aboutAmerica, like other historical things, issubject to all sorts of cross divisions andexceptions, to be considered in theirplace The negroes are a special problem,because of what white men in the past did

to them The Japanese are a specialproblem, because of what men fear thatthey in the future may do to white men.The Jews are a special problem, because

of what they and the Gentiles, in the past,present, and future, seem to have the habit

of doing to each other But the point is notthat nothing exists in America except thisidea; it is that nothing like this idea existsanywhere except in America This idea isnot internationalism; on the contrary it isdecidedly nationalism The Americans arevery patriotic, and wish to make their new

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