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Copeland Method, by Vanness Copeland

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Title: The Copeland Method

A Complete Manual for Cleaning, Repairing, Altering and

Pressing All Kinds of Garments for Men and Women, at Home

or for Busines

Author: Vanness Copeland

Release Date: November 3, 2010 [EBook

#34186]

The Copeland METHOD

The Copeland METHOD

A Complete Manual for

Cleaning, Repairing, Alteringand Pressing all kinds

of Garments for Men and

Women, at home or for

business

Copyrighted 1908

BY

VANNESS COPELAND,

BUFFALO, N Y.

High birth and good breeding are theprivileges of the few; but the habits of agentleman may be acquired by any man.Neatness is not an art requiring the study

of a life time; on the contrary it'sprinciples are simple, and their practicalapplication involves only ordinary care

To gain the good opinion of those whosurround us is the first interest and thesecond duty of men in every profession oflife First impressions are apt to bepermanent; it is therefore of importancethat they should be favorable Frequentlythe dress of an individual is that

circumstance from which you first formyour opinion It is even more prominentthan manner It is indeed one of the firstthings noticed in a casual encounter orduring the first interview Chesterfield hassaid that "He could not help conceivingsome idea of the people's sense andcharacter from the appearance of theirdress which they appeared when firstintroduced to him."

In the preparation of this book, it has beenthe aim of the maker to give in a conciseform, all that is properly embraced in acomprehensive work on not only keepingour wardrobes in such a state as to cause

us to appear to the best advantage, butalso to give a complete instruction in themanipulation of garments and tools used in

the process of properly cleaning, pressingand repairing all kinds of garments formen and women.

A few hints may be helpful to the beginner

as well as to those in the business

Observe a well dressed man or woman onthe street or elsewhere, note the make upand fitting points of their garments, thiswill help the student to know good work,and try to do as well when doing the workhimself

When learning the method of cleaning,repairing and pressing all kinds ofgarments for men and women, it is a goodidea, if possible, to have a garment of thesame sort as one is studying close at hand,following closely the instructions over all

parts of the garment; therebyunderstanding the teachings better andbecome more familiar with the work.Should a garment need repairing of anykind or a button sewed on, do it andcharge accordingly.

Never give a customer clothes that aredamp from pressing, allow them to drybefore wearing or delivering

LESSON I.

EQUIPMENT.

Introduction: A few hints to the beginner

as well as to those now in the business.The tools required and the best method ofusing same, for work at home or forbusiness

TOOLS REQUIRED AND

THEIR USE:

The tools required for cleaning, repairingand pressing at home, or for business are

a tailor's bench The balance of the toolsare the same for work at home or forbusiness.

The kitchen table or tailor's bench may beused for several purposes; the first ofwhich is to place the iron, press-jack,sponge cloth, and garment while cleaningand pressing Also for men to sit on whilesewing

THE IRON.

One may use an ordinary laundry iron (butwould advise the purchase of a solid iron

or tailor's goose, weighing from fourteen

to twenty-two pounds, or according toone's strength), one may heat the iron on acoal range, gas or oil stove; or one mayuse a gas or electric iron, which are beingused with great satisfaction, and are easilyhandled, being of little trouble to operate,also doing the work well However, it isbest to use whatever one considers mostconvenient, cheapest and best for thelocality in which one resides

The iron is heated and placed on the ironrest, which has been placed on the tablefor that purpose, to the right of the presser,

and is applied to the sponge cloth (that hasbeen wrung out almost dry), causing steam

to penetrate that part of the garment beingpressed, thereby refreshing the cloth

The presser should have control of theiron at all times, also see that the iron isnot too hot before using by testing it on apiece of light colored woolen material If

it scorches it is too hot for use, wait for afew minutes to cool

When pressing move the iron from place

to place, on the part to be pressed, bylifting it clear each time, instead ofshoving it along as some do (To shove theiron along on the work is apt to stretchgarments where not required, and alsocause wrinkles) Keep the face of ironsmooth by rubbing wax over the surface

frequently, thereby removing any lint ordirt that may accumulate from time to time.

THE PRESS-JACK.

A press-jack such as the tailors use, ismade of two hardwood boards, thirty-fiveinches long, one inch thick, planed bothsides and edges and cut egg-shape; thewide end being eight inches in width, andthe narrow or small end, four inches wide,one forming the top and the other thebottom

Between the top and bottom are screwedtwo blocks of solid wood, four by fourinches, and six inches high The first one

is screwed to the top and bottom, threeinches from the large end, and the second

block is screwed to the top and bottom,seven inches from the large end, therebyleaving a space to the small end, oftwenty-eight inches, for convenience inhandling the garments while pressing.The top of the press-jack is left perfectlyplain and smooth; the bottom, however, ispadded for convenience for pressing withten-ply of wadding, cut the same shape ofboard or bottom of press-jack Over thisplace a piece of white heavy drilling,drawn tight over the wadding to keep inplace and tacked all around the edges withbrass head tacks Cut cotton off evenlyaround the edges beyond the tacks Thiscompletes the press-jack and is ready foruse.

The press-jack as tailors term it, is used

for the pressing of clothes, and is alsouseful to lay clothes on while cleaning.

THE BRUSH.

A brush with a plain back and handle.(Never use a whisk broom to brushclothes as it injures the fibre of the cloth.)The brush is used to brush garmentsthoroughly before cleaning and is used inconnection with the pressing of garments,

to slap with the back the part pressed,thereby keeping the steam in, and makingthe cloth sweat The face to brush the nap

of cloth, thereby refreshing the garment,making it look like new

THE SPONGE CLOTH.

A sponge cloth is made of heavyunbleached cotton, one yard and a halflong, boiled in soap and water for onehour, then rinse in clean water, thusremoving the lint

The sponge cloth should be dipped inwarm water, and wrung out almost dry byhand, (or one may use a clothes wringer ifpreferred) thereby keeping it clean andfree from grease and dirt that may stick to

it from time to time

The sponge cloth is used to lay over the

"woolen press cloth" that has been placedover that part of the garment to be pressed,also it is the cloth which is to be

dampened and when iron is appliedcauses steam to be forced into the garmentthereby instilling new life into the cloth as

Place this under woolen press cloth overthat part of garment to be pressed, then laythe sponge cloth on top of this, and applythe iron

By using these two press cloths together,prevents glossing the garment to a great

extent, and may be used when pressing allkinds of garments for men and women.

COAT AND TROUSER HANGERS, ETC.

Coat and trouser hangers are used to placethe several garments on to retain theirshape after cleaning and pressing Theyare also very essential in the home toplace garments on that are not in use orbeing worn, it is better to place garments

on forms than to hang up by loops that areplaced on garments by tailors

Other necessities used in the cleaning,repairing and pressing of garments, are thesponge, tape measure, scissors, tailor's

chalk, needles, thimble, bodkin for pullingbastings, a sewing machine, a largemirror, fashion plates, chairs, desk andsafe, if one wishes.

Afterward one may add as many tools asnecessity requires and their businesspermits

LESSON II.

CLEANING.

Consists of several formulas for makingStandard cleaning fluids, and the bestmethod of using same, in the cleaning ofall kinds of garments How to preparegarments to be cleaned How to steamclean How to dry clean The secret ofsuccess in cleaning To clean velvet andvelveteen To remove paint, tar, greaseand ink from garments How to washwoolens How to wash black woolendresses How to clean silk, satin and lace

To remove grease from delicate fabrics

To remove stains from linen and cottongoods A formula for making mothpreventative.

CLEANING FLUID.

(Formula.)

2 ounces Chloroform

3 ounces Wood Alcohol

2 ounces Sulphur Ether

2 ounces Spirit of Wine

3 ounces French Castile Soap.

DIRECTIONS TO MIX:

Cut the French Castile Soap in fineshavings, dissolve them together with theBorax, in four quarts of boiling water,cool this solution, being careful that all thesoap is dissolved, then strain throughmuslin or thin woolen cloth, to removeany sediment Then add the other sevenchemicals, mix and shake well This willmake five quarts Cleaning Fluid

This cleaning fluid may be used on anygarment with good results, as it will notinjure the fibre of the cloth Always rinsespot good with clean water and sponge,after using cleaning fluids

HOW TO PREPARE A SIMPLE CLEANING

FLUID.

(Formula.)

4 ounces Ammonia

4 ounces Bay Rum

1-6 ounce Salt Peter

To this add one pint of clean water, pour

in a small neck bottle, keep well corked toavoid evaporating

This preparation will remove fresh orhard paint, tar, grease, oil and in fact anyspots from clothing, dress goods, carpets,rugs, and all woolen goods without injury

to the fabric The above may be obtained

at any drug store

HOW TO PREPARE MOTH

PREVENTATIVE.

(Formula.)

4 ounces Powder Borax

4 ounces Powder Alum

4 ounces Powder Camphor

Mix all three chemicals togetherthoroughly This will make a whitepowder Sprinkle freely around and undercarpets before laying, also over clothingnot in use This powder will not leave astain, and is easily brushed off Use freely

wherever moths appear.

HOW TO USE THE

CLEANING FLUIDS.

Dampen a sponge or woolen cloth (whiteflannel is the best as there is no color tocome out) by dipping it in the cleaningfluid, which has been poured into a basinfor that purpose and convenience Rub thespot to be cleaned with the dampenedsponge, woolen cloth or flannel) with thethread or nap of the cloth until the greaseand dirt is loosened, then rinse with cleanwater, (always rinse sponge, cloth orflannel in clean water before cleaning thestain a second time with pure water) untilstain entirely disappears

Always clean garments before repairing

See that the dust and dirt is thoroughlyremoved from the pockets, then returnpockets to their place This is a veryimportant part and one which is very oftenneglected and overlooked The garment isthen ready to be cleaned Proceed as

above explained If one application is notsufficient to remove the spots, repeat untilspots are thoroughly removed.

Coats are usually very dirty and greasyaround the collar also down the fronts,great care should be taken to cleanthoroughly and rinse often, therebyremoving all stains

All coats, vests, trousers, overcoats,ladies' jackets, coats, waists, and all kinds

of skirts should be cleaned by this samemethod

HOW TO STEAM CLEAN.

To steam clean coats, vests, trousers,overcoats, ladies jackets and skirts and all

wool garments:

Place each garment in a basin of warmwater first, and with soap and a brush goover the entire garment thoroughly,including sleeve lining

Second—pour water off and fill basinagain with warmer water than at first, andwash with stiff brush and soap as before,using three waters or until garment isthoroughly cleaned

Remove soap water (do not wringgarments but allow to drip, or squeezewater out) and rinse in hot water, thenwarm, then cooler, and so on until cold,adding one tablespoonful of coarse salt.(Dissolve salt in cold water beforeplacing in basin) This will prevent

garment from shrinking Place on hanger toretain their shape, allowing water to dripout Straighten out wrinkles as much aspossible when drying, thus making thepressing easier, and when thoroughly dry,proceed to press as explained If any spotsremain after this process, remove withammonia.

For those who perspire under the armsfreely, dress shields placed in the bottom

of the arm holes of coats will be of greatbenefit

HOW TO DRY CLEAN.

Use a basin large enough to hold onegallon of gasolene and the garment to becleaned (Being careful to keep gasolene

away from the stove or a lighted candle,lamp, or gas.)

Place one gallon of gasolene in the basinwith the coat, and swash up and downuntil all grease and dirt has beenloosened, then place on hangers in theopen air, allowing to dry and gasolene toevaporate

Before dipping the coat in the basin, seethat all dust and dirt is removed from thepockets by turning them inside out andbrushing, also brush all seams

Use half a gallon for the vest, and onegallon for the trousers The more gasoleneused, the better will be the results

Gasolene may be used a second time on

black goods, after filtering or settling, butnever on light colored materials, ladies'jackets, coats, wool waists, and skirts may

be cleaned in the same way

Gasolene, benzine, naptha, turpentine andammonia should be of the best and purest,when used for cleaning purposes

The secret of success in cleaning, is bydipping the garment in a large quantity ofthe liquid Not less than a gallon ofgasolene, benzine or naptha should beused for a coat, jacket or skirt Twogallons will do the work better Oneshould remove all spots if possible beforedipping in the liquid It is a good idea tosurround each spot with a basting thread

as when wet, some spots do not show.Soak each garment in the clear liquid, then

soap all spots thoroughly, rub gentlybetween the hands until spots disappear.Then wash and rinse garment in clearliquid Place on hangers in the open air, ordrying room, allowing odor to pass away.Soap may be used for cleaning inconnection with gasolene with goodresults One may use a little ammonia withthe gasolene and soap The goods should

be well shaken, and pull all folds outstraight with the threads of the goods.Velveteen, velvet and corduroy may becleaned with gasolene, when pile or nap

is not much worn

When cleaning velvet, or any other fabric,the most important part is to have all thedust and dirt removed, by brushing thegarment or fabric thoroughly

To clean a velvet collar that is not toogreasy, and the nap not worn off: Wet apiece of woolen cloth or flannel ingasolene and rub lightly, until the greaseand dirt is loosened Then apply moregasolene with a clean woolen cloth, andremove all grease and dirt Place onhanger in the open air to dry and toevaporate before steaming When muchgasolene is used hang coat so that thecollar hangs down, to allow the gasolene

to drip out and evaporate, beforesteaming Always being careful not to usegasolene near a stove, lighted candle,lamp or gas

When using gasolene for cleaningpurposes, have it in a gasolene or benzinesafety can, used for that purpose, which