79 fashionary bag design a handbook for accessories designers

79. Fashionary Bag Design: A Handbook for Accessories Designers Số trang: 126 trang Ngôn ngữ: English --------------------------------- Fashionarys Bag Design encyclopedia is the most comprehensive resource for bag designers and bag lovers. Focusing on the specific needs of bag designers, Fashionary has provided essential information on bag anatomy, manafacturing, materials and much more in one compact, convenient volume.

BAG DESIGN

A HANDBOOK FOR INE ECIESSORINES DESI ONES

FASHIONARY

BAG DESIGN

A HANDBOOK FOR ACCESSORIES DESIGNERS

FASHIONARY

CONTENTS

05 Bags & Small Leather Goods

05 e Clutch & Handheld Bags

05 ® Crossbody & Shoulder Bags

05 © Backpacks & Waist Bags

06 e Athletic & Functional Bags

06 e Trunks & Luggage

07 e Leather Belts

07 e Wallets & Purses

07 e Leather Belts

07 © Other Small Leather Goods

08 Historical & Folk Bags

17 e Bag Interior Design

18 Bag Embellishments & Accessories

18 e Metal Buckles & Sliders

18 e Plastic Buckles & Sliders

18 e Hooks & Rings

18 e Magnetic Snap Buttons

e Bucket Bag Pattern

¢ Boston Bag Pattern

e Briefcase Pattern

e Backpack Pattern

BAG LEATHERS & FABRICS

Leather Overview Common Leather Types Other Common Fabrics for Bags

Stabilizer / Interfacing for Bags

BAG CARE & BUYING

Bag Care Tools Bag Care & Maintenance

MISCELLANEOUS

Common Logo Placement Positions Books & Bookmarks

Trade Fairs, Museums & Courses

Spec Sheet & Range Plan

Bag Glossary

VII BAG TEMPLATES 103 Weekender

104 Sports Duffel Bag

61 Cluctch 106 Bowling Bag

64 Kiss Lock Clutch 109 Field Bag

67 Doctor’s Bag 112 Hiking Backpack

68 Boston Bag 113 Golf Bag

69 Gladstone Bag 114 Hardside Luggage

70 Handheld Handbag - Single Handle 116 Softside Luggage - Cabin Luggage

71 Handheld Handbag - Double Handle 118 Continental / Long Wallet

72 Handheld Handbag - Accordion Handbag 119 Zip-Around Wallet

73 Handheld Handbag - Trapeze Hangbag 120 Bi-fold Wallet

74 Handheld Handbag - Half Moon Bag 121 Key Case

75 Handheld Handbag - Ruffle Bag

76 Baguette Bag

78 Strawbag / Beach Bag / Kenya Bag

80 Shopper Bag - Cut-out Handle 124 Size Guide for Backpacks, Luggage and Small Leather

90 Quilted Sling / Crossbody Bag

91 * Lady Camera Bag

92 One Strap Bookbag / One Shoulder Backpack /

101 Security Pouch / Small Traveling Pouch

102 Wash Bag / Cosmetic Bag

LIBRARY

BAGS & SMALL LEATHER GOODS

HISTORICAL & FOLK BAGS

SIGNATURE BAGS

BAG DETAILS

BAG EMBELLISMENTS & ACCESSORIES

BAGS & SMALL LEATHER GOODS

CLUTCH & HANDHELD BAGS

(refer to P 60) (refer to P 61) (refer to P 62) (refer to P 63) (refer to P 64)

(refer to P 65)

CROSSBODY & SHOULDER BAGS

Baguette Bag Hobo Bag Straw Bag / Beach Bag / Muff Bag Shopper Bag /ToteBag Shopper Bag / Tote Bag

(refer to P 78)

(refer to P 87-88) (refer to P 89) Crossbody Bag (refer to P 94) Sling Backpack

BACKPACKS & WAIST BAGS

Belt Bag Waist Pack / Bum Bag Sports Waist Belt Bag - Day Pack Backpack Drawstring Backpack

BACKPACKS & WAIST BAGS (CONT'D)

books around campus

ATHLETIC & FUNCTIONAL BAGS

Security Pouch / Wash Bag / Cosmetic Bag Weekender Sports Duffel Bag Barrel Bag / Holdall

Small Traveling Pouch (refer to P 102) (refer to P 103) (refer to P 104) (refer to P 105)

(refer to P 101)

(refer to P 106-107) always made of canvas fabrics Courier Bag (refer to P 109) (refer to P 110)

(refer to P 108)

sides of a bicycle or motorcycle

TRUNKS & LUGGAGE (CONT'D)

(e.g French Horn Case) (refer to P 114-115) (refer to P 116-117)

woven belt with leather tab

and metal buckle

Western Belt Cartridge Belt Money Belt Snake Belt Sam Browne Belt Kidney Belt

OTHER SMALL LEATHER GOODS

KACX

BSAX s52 N P VG

RENAISSANCE PERIOD (15™ - 17™ CENTURY)

Sweetmeat Purse Sweetmeat Purse Tapestry Purse

AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT (17™ - 19™ CENTURY)

Tie-on Pocket Letter Case

Long Purse Knitted Silk Purse

c 1750

Reticule

England early 19th century

Workbag Leather Hand and

England Wrist Bag

c.1875-79 Germany

c 1880

Crocheted Coin Purse with

Perfume Bottle on Top

France

c 1855

Purse France

c 1830-49

Bag England

c 1850

Reticule England

c 1840-49

Reticule England

c 1850-59

Velvet Bag France

Leather Hand and Workbag

AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT (17™ - 19™ CENTURY) (CONT'D)

c 1890 c 1890 England 19th century 19th century Germany

FOLK AND TRADITIONAL BAGS FROM EAST TO WEST

Bayong

~ Alexander Wang — Alviero Martini — Anya Hindmarch — Balenciaga - Bottega Veneta — Building Block

- Christian Louboutin - Christian Dior - Christian Dior - Coach — Corto Moltedo — Dolce & Gabbana

Baguette Peekaboo Petite 2Jours Kanken Antigona Centenary

- Fendi with Bag Bugs — Fendi — Fjallraven — Givenchy — Globe Trotter

Bao Bao Chandra Clutch Pebble Leather Backpack K/Klassic Cedar Street Kalifornia Gommato Bag

Pretty Nylon Tote Stark Backpack Selma Matelassé Leather Bag Vitello Lux Bow Bag Alexa

Cabas Y Tote Classic Sac De Jour Classic Monogram Ginny Sofia Box Albion

Company

- Valentino — Valentino — Versace - Victoria Beckham — Viktor & Rolf

— Chanel — Chiyome — Céte & Ciel — Digest Design Workshop — Finell — Fleet Ilya

ĐÀN

— Niels Peeraer — Nila Anthony — Nila Anthony A Love Story Clutch - Yazbukey

— Olympia Le-Tan — Undercover

SIGNATUREBAGS 13

BAG DETAILS

HANDLES & STRAPS

Top Handle / Flat Top Handle Bamboo Handle Cut-out Handle Acrylic / Resin / Plastic Handle Wooden Handle

Beaded Handle Metal Chain Strap Leather-woven Chain Strap Curb Chain Handle / Leather Tote Handle with Toggles

Handle with Chain

BAG DETAILS 15

BAG SIDES

Gusset Accordion Gusset Side with Button Tabs Side Panel Winged Side Zippered

Multiple Stud Decorative Buckle Corner Reinforced Corner with Zippered Corner Eyelet Corner Folded Corner

Studded Bottom with Studded Bottom with Studded Bottom with Envelope Bottom Bottom with Corner Extra Leather Bottom for

Zipper Gusset Pocket Zipper Gusset Pocket with Zipper Pocket with Zipper Pocket with Tassel

BAG INTERIOR DESIGN

Full-sized Zipper Pocket Half-sized Zipper Pocket Zipper Pocket with Leather Trim Zipper Pocket with Shaped

Leather Trim and Key Holder

Laptop / Tablet Protective Pocket Laptop / Tablet Protective Phone Pocket with Full-sized Zipper Pocket with

and Pen Holder

BAG DETAILS 17

BAG EMBELLISHMENTS & ACCESSORIES

?IN BUCKLES & SLIDERS

BAG / PURSE FRAMES CORD EMBELLISHMENTS

Uniformed Breadth and Thickness, Delicate and in Finer Width

with Mount

Non-lock Slider Auto-lock Slider Pin Lock Slider Double Pull Key Lock Slider Cord Pull Paracord Pull

Celine Clasp Lock Chanel CC Twist Lock Chloe Turn Lock Ferragamo Gancio Hermés Turn Lock Louis Vuitton Versace

METAL PLATES

BAG CHARMS

Clochette Key Holder

Safety Rope

BAG ACCESSORIES

Shoulder Pad / Luggage Handle Wrap Purse Hook / Shoulder Strap Pocket Waterproof Handbag Waterproof Backpack

21

Handle Holder / @ vượng

Handle Attachment Tab ——————————————qzzb the Front Flap

Bag Tag / Fob

Interior Zipper Pocket

Front Flap

Snap Button Metal Eyelet

Elastic Compression Strap

Elastic Compression Strap

Interior Open Pocket

Bag Bottom

ANATOMY 25

CAMERA BAG ANATOMY

Metal Ring

Front Flap Top Stitching

Side Pocket Flap

Protective

Velcro Laptop Pocket

Removable

Zipper Pocket

Camera Insert

Name Tag / Business Card Holder

pss Bag Bottom

LUGGAGE ANATOMY

Telescopic Handle

Top Handle

Add-a-bag Holder Corner Guard / Trim

Front Zipper Pocket

TSA Combination Lock

Side Handle

Polycarbonate Case

EXPLODED VIEW OF A LUGGAGE

Flexible Divider with

ANATOMY 27

ATTACHE CASE ANATOMY

Top Handle

Combination Lock

Frame

File Divider Pocket

Open Pocket

Business Card Holder

Pen Holder

Removable Spacer Velcro Strap Laptop Holder

Card Pockets

Gusset

ANATOMY 29

BAG MAKING TOOLS

GENERAL BAG MAKING TOOLS

=—<S

Dressmaking Scissors Pinking Shears Duckbill / Appliqué Scissors Rotary Point Cutter Finger Presser

Scissors specifically for Reduces the bulkoftheseam The flat, semi-circular With its point cutter and Used for pressing seams,

can reduce the bulk of bag seams

a fabric tube inside out to to quickly thread it through a opened to any required width when hand-stitching

create a fabric strap fabric tube and used to create a parallel

line as a guide for cutting

Bo Ee

Used for keeping fabric Used for stitching in places Leaves marks before sewing Creates subtle creases on Opens or closes metal

together when sewing where the sewing machine fabric for easy stitching hardware e.g for attaching

An alternative way for Holds seams together when Create marks on fabric when A flexible tape made from a Aruler strong enough to

option

SEWING MACHINES & MACHINE FEET

A must-have tool for bag Machine Walking Foot Ithas aroller attached andis Made ofresin with a super

The tunnel groove onthe sole A foot used specifically for Also known as a ‘Patchwork It gives maximum freedom Being transparent, it offers

LEATHER BAG MAKING TOOLS

A cutting knife with a very A knife used as a skiver Comprising a circular blade A pair of super sharp blades Aself-healing synthetic

sharp blade, used for pattern § Round beveled, hand that rotates, it is a practical for cutting lighter weight cutting surface used for

straight and curved lines

It can easily cut through multiple layers of fabrics,

which cannot be done

precisely with scissors

i

Leather Edge Paint

eee

adhesive on leather pressure to the surface of used for attaching leather edges of leather of straps and all soft leather

of different sizes on leather slight stretch piercing patterns or passing through tough setting rivets and eyelets

materials to create location materials such as leather, points as a guide for cutting suede and vinyl without

BAG MAKING TOOLS 33

BAG PATTERNS

ENVELOPE CLUTCH PATTERN

Interior Zipper Pocket

Bag Side Facing

BUCKET BAG PATTERN

Main Body

Main Body Facing

Main Body Lining

BOSTON BAG PATTERN

Side Panel Lining

Bottom Stud Reinforcement

BAG PATTERNS 37

Gusset Front Panel

Gusset Front Flap

— COMMON LEATHER TYPES

"=3 COMMON FABRICS FOR BAGS

"= STABILIZER / INTERFACING FOR BAGS

Oe eee eee ee ene eeeseeeseveneeesiasianes Best Value, 13% of the hide

Good Value, 30% of the hide

isi itg6 6 6/8/4)610060019/014G01010011G001GG200100-208210 Fair Value, 32% of the hide

Poor Value, 25% of the hide

#i©ÐÖEwiSi45094)0A05G0086:0814i84Si06040i06i6iÀ G483 Jxainh ng Grain line

COMMON TANNING METHODS

Vegetable-tanned leather

Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannins and other ingredients found

in different vegetable matter, such as tree bark prepared in bark mills, wood, leaves, fruits and roots and other similar sources

Chrome-tanned leather

Also known as wet blue, chrome tanning is the most common tanning method due to its cost and time needed It is more supple and pliable than vegetable- tanned leather and does not discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned leather More esoteric colors can be dyed

Aldehyde-tanned leather

Also known as wet white, aldehyde tanning uses glutaraldehyde or oxazolidine

CGrade - 10-20% imperfection 2 cite

BE Aniline Full Grain

Sanded surface, artificial

Created from the fibrous part Bycast Leather

THICKNESS SYSTEM CONVERSION

42 COMMON LEATHER TYPES

Most leather is made of cattle skin

Structure varies across the whole hide, strong

Good heat insulation Thin, soft, loose

fibrous structure Loose grain surface and light substance with soft feel, very porous

Low durability

Usage: Bag shell material, lining

Tough, soft, supple, very stretchy

Washable and abrasion resistant

Common hide for suede

Usage: Quality bag shell material

Great variation according to the type of snake, distinctive pattern, lightweight,

strong, papery feel

Usage: Luxury bag shell material,

Slightly rubbery, fine grain, little variation

across the skin

Usage: Higher quality handbags

The softest, thinnest, most supple type of

skin Buttery texture and finely grained

Elastic, very form-fitting, stretches well and tends to reshape after wearing

Thick in the bend and thin in the belly

and limbs Scaly, supple (belly), tough, durable

Usage: Luxury bag shell material, Hermés_

Kelly

Lightweight, thin, strong, great variation

Usage: Bag shell material, decoration

One of the finest and most durable types of

skins in the world Unique bumpy texture

strong

Usage: Bag shell material, favored by

many major fashion houses such as

Hermés, Prada, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton

Fine scales, pliable, strong and elegant

Usage: Wallets, handbag:

Smooth skin, scaleless Easily recognizable

thanks to its dark spots and ‘stripes’ which

-are due to the friction of marine rocks

Usage: Belts, wallets

Very smooth in touch with an elegant

horizontal pinstripe-like pattern

Lightweight, supple, incredibly strong

Usage: Handbags and wallets with distinctive stripe pattern

Strong, lightweight, papery feel and thin

KANGAROO : Ạ

Very strong (10 times the tensile strength

of cowhide and is 50% stronger than

goatskin), thin, lightweight, uniform fiber

Its skin has finer scales than salmon,

but its texture is more varied, sometimes

smooth and sometimes rough

Usage: Wallets, purses

TILAPIA ae

Compared with salmon skin, the pattern

of tilapia leather is more beautiful, but the

skins are smaller in size

Usage: Wallets, purses

‘Small in size, thin and fragile

Usage: Handbag shell material, decoration

COMMON LEATHER TYPES 43