Tài liệu kỹ thuật mã hàng quần âu, áo sơ mi, áo jacket, áo veston của công ty may phần 1

* ALL MEASUREMENTS REFER TO SAMPLE SIZE ONLY... * ALL MEASUREMENTS REFER TO SAMPLE SIZE ONLY... * ALL MEASUREMENTS REFER TO SAMPLE SIZE ONLY... 3760 CHANGES - no changes WORKMANSHIP - sn

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* ALL MEASUREMENTS REFER TO SAMPLE SIZE ONLY

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PO position COMMENT TYPE

( KW = calendar week)

- MEASUREMENT ([Werte]) 34 sample new

measurement

52 sample new

measurement

FISTR

Z sleeve hole height (Z1+Z2)/2 23,0 23,0 29,1 30,0

T elbow width (width at 1/2F) 33,0 32,0 43,0 42,0

P neckhole (seamline inside) 48,0 48,5 57,0 57,0

- regarding your comment for sleeve length: F1 sleeve length changed from 64,4 cm

to 65,9 cm, then F1 sleeve length (F1 + 1/2E) by 86,5 is possible -> see MCFABRIC - samles are in original fabric -> checked in Col 3760

CHANGES - no changes

WORKMANSHIP - snapper at the upper cf overlap is not on the same level

- overlap attachment seam is uneven

- underlap: to cancel the topstitching on the underlap (under the zipper teeth)

- hood: to fix the front hood drawstring in the cf with a bartack (invisible) to avoid the drawstring pulls out

TRIM - missing: carelabel, all HTG´s

- substitute: Gore Tex sideseamflag (has a new design)GENERAL

COMMENTS

Pls action all comments and improve it for the bulk production!

You can start with the bulk!

POONG SHIN

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comment: Size chart approval

prototype salesman bulk

(release after pps = original material) bulk

Z sleeve hole height (Z1+Z2)/2 23,0 23,5 24,0 24,4 24,9 25,4 26,4 27,3 28,2 29,1

R upper arm width 41,0 42,5 44,0 45,0 45,5 47,5 49,5 51,0 53,0 54,5 no

T elbow width (width at 1/2F) 33,0 34,0 35,0 36,0 37,0 38,0 39,0 40,0 41,5 43,0 23.06.16KD

H sleeve hem (width) 28,0 28,5 29,0 29,5 30,0 30,5 31,0 31,5 32,0 32,5 23.06.16KD

P neckhole (seamline inside) 48,0 49,0 50,0 51,0 52,0 53,0 54,0 55,0 56,0 57,0

P1 collar width 50,0 51,0 52,0 53,0 54,0 55,0 56,0 57,0 58,0 59,0

Q2 back collar height 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0

Q1 front collar height 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0

new grading table DJALL15

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code ag / m description dim qty x position VK 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

2000068 Interlining underlay 11x200 Bdm 074 0,15 5x interlining for embroidery VK 074 074 074 074 074 074 074 074 074 074

4005533 group: eyelet metal HCS 3 mm,

kl+U-S+U-S felt metal antique 2col

4005907 BG om:eyelet Met flat 7x3mm,

kl+U-S+U-S felt col:metal NEW

4006010 cord stopper singlehanded oval

FO/D4,5mm bluesign

4006010 cord stopper singlehanded oval

FO/D4,5mm bluesign

4006194 tab transparent UTX/DURAFLEX

bluesign

4006194 tab transparent UTX/DURAFLEX

4006187 label GORE-TEX guarantee rhomb

woven sew in label 50x50mm

050 1 inside left front VK 050 050 050 050 050 050 050 050 050 050

4006189 seam flag label HCS Gore-Tex

40x22mm

040 1 left side seam VK 040 040 040 040 040 040 040 040 040 040

4006072 Hangtag HCS long Fair Wear / FO 150 1 see folding 2 VK 150 150 150 150 150 150 150 150 150 150

4006073 hangtag GORE-TEX bluesign insert 00 1 between Gore-Tex HTG

#4005900

5000074 Sp.36tg 1W utb DFL fb /FO 016 1 left inner pocket VK 016 016 016 016 016 016 016 016 016 016

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code ag / m description dim qty x position VK 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

5000115 Sp.36tg 1W utb DFW fb 016 2 2x lower pockets VK 016 016 016 016 016 016 016 018 018 018

5031268 Zipper puller plastic logo for pocket /

X-Trail Mountain bluesign

4006271 [BG DK Kappe Grip-Fix neutral Metall

4004411 assembly group snapper, LUK 4/11,

part C + D

4004451 assembly group snapper, LUK not

024 1 front placket top of overpap VK 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024

4004451 assembly group snapper, LUK not

visible, part A + B

024 1 lower front placket overlap VK 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024

4006269 [BG: Kugelteil Grip-Fix 24"] 024 2 2x collar at front VK 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024 024

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Main Material pattern-number

lining-/facing fabric

wadding / interlining

adapted trim list for NAV

C 0011251 2L GTX PES Perf.Shell plain 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH [S01 (jacket, sleeve, hood,

collar, cb facing)]

2,07 meter 3760 8180 9102

C 1021041 Fabric Taslan 223354 Carol Textile Co.Ltd [S02 facings (cf facing,

sleeve flap and back/underside of underlap, hem facing, sleeve facing)]

0,24 meter VK 9870 8890 9870

1181965 poly lining (bluesign) 209059 J&B Co., F01 (lower body, sleeve,

1181964 meshlining filet bluesign 209059 J&B Co., F03 (upper body middle part) 0,11 meter VK 3031 8890 9102

1181965 poly lining (bluesign) 209059 J&B Co., [F20 (pocket bags facing

2000001 E01 interlining without glue 211001 Lainiere de Picardie E01 (hood shield) 00 0,15 meter VK 0000 0000

2000004 E11 Art 201 206005 Freudenberg Interlining SE & Co KG [E11 (front placket, underlap,

1x layer sleeve flap, collar, 1xlayer pocket flaps,

underneath #1000005]

00 0,35 meter VK 0000 0000

2000145 Adhesive Film VK 202089 local procurement [f22 to fix the pocket flap] 000 0,01 meter VK 1000 1000

23.06.16KD 2000145 Adhesive Film VK 202089 local procurement [E11 2b - 1x layer sleeve

flaps, 1x layer pocket flaps]

000 0,04 meter VK 1000 1000

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2000001 E01 interlining without glue 211001 Lainiere de Picardie E01 (hood shield) 00 0,15 meter VK 0000

2000004 E11 Art 201 206005 Freudenberg Interlining SE & Co KG [E11 (front placket, underlap,

1x layer sleeve flap, collar, 1xlayer pocket flaps,

underneath #1000005]

00 0,35 meter VK 0000

2000145 Adhesive Film VK 202089 local procurement [f22 to fix the pocket flap] 000 0,01 meter VK 1000

23.06.16KD 2000145 Adhesive Film VK 202089 local procurement [E11 2b - 1x layer sleeve

flaps, 1x layer pocket flaps]

000 0,04 meter VK 1000

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Adapted trimmingslist for ERP_IX

210 2000068 Interlining underlay 11x200 Bdm 202089 local procurement 074 0,15 pcs 5x interlining for embroidery VK 0000 0000

300 3000004 Gore-flap 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH 050 0,32 meter 4x hood connections VK 0000 0000

300 3000004 Gore-flap 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH 050 0,32 meter 2x sleeve connection VK 0000 0000

300 3000021 Gore tape Jumbo 2L, 6mil, 100mm 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH 100 0,24 meter 4x embroideries 1110 1110

300 3000095 Gore Schwb 2L, DIM 22 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH 022 4 meter cf zippper, neckline 1110 1110

Y 400 4005533 group: eyelet metal HCS 3 mm,

218083 Tin Shing Accessories Co Limited 00 4 pcs 2x cf hood outside VK 305500 818000

400 4005907 BG om:eyelet Met flat 7x3mm,

218083 Tin Shing Accessories Co Limited 00 2 pcs cb collar VK 977000 977000

Y 410 4006008 cord stopper standard 4,5mm

bluesign

Y 410 4006010 cord stopper singlehanded oval

FO/D4,5mm bluesign

300000 UTX-Duraflex of China 00 1 pcs back hood adjustment VK 305500 818000

FO/D4,5mm bluesign

Y 412 4006194 tab transparent UTX/DURAFLEX

bluesign

300000 UTX-Duraflex of China 00 1 pcs back hood adjustment VK 100001 100001

bluesign

Y 420 4006065 Gore TPU Label bluesign 219049 Universe Fashion Accessories 00 1 pcs lower right sleeve VK 999000 999000

420 4006187 label GORE-TEX guarantee rhomb

217878 SML (Central Europe) GmbH 050 1 pcs inside left front VK 999000 999000

10002117

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210 2000068 Interlining underlay 11x200 Bdm 202089 local procurement 074 0,15 pcs 5x interlining for embroidery VK 0000

300 3000004 Gore-flap 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH 050 0,32 meter 4x hood connections VK 0000

300 3000004 Gore-flap 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH 050 0,32 meter 2x sleeve connection VK 0000

300 3000021 Gore tape Jumbo 2L, 6mil, 100mm 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH 100 0,24 meter 4x embroideries 1110

300 3000095 Gore Schwb 2L, DIM 22 207003 W.L Gore & Associates GmbH 022 4 meter cf zippper, neckline 1110

Y 400 4005533 group: eyelet metal HCS 3 mm,

218083 Tin Shing Accessories Co Limited 00 4 pcs 2x cf hood outside VK 910200

Y 410 4006008 cord stopper standard 4,5mm

bluesign

FO/D4,5mm bluesign

bluesign

Y 420 4006065 Gore TPU Label bluesign 219049 Universe Fashion Accessories 00 1 pcs lower right sleeve VK 999000

420 4006187 label GORE-TEX guarantee rhomb

217878 SML (Central Europe) GmbH 050 1 pcs inside left front VK 999000

10002117

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Y 420 4006189 seam flag label HCS Gore-Tex

40x22mm

450 4005900 hangtag GORE-TEX PRODUCTS 217878 SML (Central Europe) GmbH 00 1 pcs see folding 2 VK 000000 000000

450 4006072 Hangtag HCS long Fair Wear / FO 213038 Nilorn East Asia Ltd 150 1 pcs see folding 2 VK 111000 111000

450 4006073 hangtag GORE-TEX bluesign insert 217878 SML (Central Europe) GmbH 00 1 pcs between Gore-Tex HTG #4005900 VK 000000 00000023.06.16

460 4006007 velcro loop bluesign 219037 Universal Trim Supply Co Ltd 010 0,05 meter collar flap VK 905700 818000

Y 461 4006021 ribbon bluesign 203008 Chun Wo Ho Co Ltd 010 0,1 meter twilled ribbon loop in sideseam VK 305500 818000

Y 461 4006091 grosgrain ribbon with debossed logo 203008 Chun Wo Ho Co Ltd 090 0,1 meter cb loop VK 305500 818000

Y 468 4006181 Elastic cord round 2.5mm

uni-colored bluesign

203008 Chun Wo Ho Co Ltd 00 0,01 meter back hood adjustment VK 305500 818000

480 4000392 Saba c 100 thread 202089 local procurement 00 10 meter sewing stitching and overlocking VK M M

x 512 5000074 Sp.36tg 1W utb DFL fb /FO 221028 YKK Global Marketing Group (GMG) 016 1 pcs left inner pocket VK CC CC

x 512 5000115 Sp.36tg 1W utb DFW fb 221028 YKK Global Marketing Group (GMG) 016 2 pcs 2x lower pockets VK CC CC

10002117

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Y 420 4006189 seam flag label HCS Gore-Tex

40x22mm

450 4005900 hangtag GORE-TEX PRODUCTS 217878 SML (Central Europe) GmbH 00 1 pcs see folding 2 VK 000000

450 4006072 Hangtag HCS long Fair Wear / FO 213038 Nilorn East Asia Ltd 150 1 pcs see folding 2 VK 111000

450 4006073 hangtag GORE-TEX bluesign insert 217878 SML (Central Europe) GmbH 00 1 pcs between Gore-Tex HTG #4005900 VK 000000

460 4006007 velcro loop bluesign 219037 Universal Trim Supply Co Ltd 010 0,05 meter collar flap VK 910200

Y 461 4006021 ribbon bluesign 203008 Chun Wo Ho Co Ltd 010 0,1 meter twilled ribbon loop in sideseam VK 900700

Y 461 4006091 grosgrain ribbon with debossed logo 203008 Chun Wo Ho Co Ltd 090 0,1 meter cb loop VK 900700

203008 Chun Wo Ho Co Ltd 00 0,01 meter back hood adjustment VK 900700

480 4000392 Saba c 100 thread 202089 local procurement 00 10 meter sewing stitching and overlocking VK M

x 512 5000074 Sp.36tg 1W utb DFL fb /FO 221028 YKK Global Marketing Group (GMG) 016 1 pcs left inner pocket VK CC

x 512 5000115 Sp.36tg 1W utb DFW fb 221028 YKK Global Marketing Group (GMG) 016 2 pcs 2x lower pockets VK CC

10002117

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Y 539 5031268 Zipper puller plastic logo for pocket /

219049 Universe Fashion Accessories 00 2 pcs 2x lower pockets VK 376000 818000

Y 539 5031314 Zipper puller plastic logo for cf /

620 6000065 hang tag HCS for code label, long

standard

28.04.16

WU

400 4006271 [BG DK Kappe Grip-Fix neutral

Metall 24" +Federteil]

215070 Prym Fashion Asia Pacific & Co 024 2 pcs 2x front of hood VK 977000 977000

400 4004411 assembly group snapper, LUK 4/11,

part C + D

211068 LUK`S BUTTON INDUSTRIAL

LIMITED

00 1 pcs lower left front part VK 977000 977000

400 4004451 assembly group snapper, LUK not

024 1 pcs front placket top of overpap VK 977000 977000

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Y 539 5031268 Zipper puller plastic logo for pocket /

219049 Universe Fashion Accessories 00 2 pcs 2x lower pockets VK 900700

Y 539 5031314 Zipper puller plastic logo for cf /

620 6000065 hang tag HCS for code label, long

standard

28.04.16

WU

400 4006271 [BG DK Kappe Grip-Fix neutral

Metall 24" +Federteil]

215070 Prym Fashion Asia Pacific & Co 024 2 pcs 2x front of hood VK 977000

400 4004411 assembly group snapper, LUK 4/11,

part C + D

211068 LUK`S BUTTON INDUSTRIAL

LIMITED

00 1 pcs lower left front part VK 977000

024 1 pcs front placket top of overpap VK 977000

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[# Bedeutet Farbe GEÄNDERT / * bedeutet NEU]

[Stückl.Farbkarte in Auftrag] TD[Stückl.Farbkarte ausgefüllt] PM[Stückl.Farbkarte geprueft [KE]

spezielle Zutaten geprueft [KE]

[Stückl.Farbkarte übertragen] TDcolorcard done Des

Descolorcard revised/changed

CC material [Montage] description position 3760 Color ref 8180 Color ref 9102 Color ref.

C 0011251 2L GTX PES Perf.Shell plain [S01 (jacket, sleeve, hood, collar, cb

1181965 poly lining (bluesign) F01 (lower body, sleeve, hood)

1181964 meshlining filet bluesign [F02 (upper body, front-and side part)]

1181964 meshlining filet bluesign F03 (upper body middle part)

1181965 poly lining (bluesign) [F20 (pocket bags facing pocket bag)]

1000005 brushed trickot mesh [T07 (collar inside,top of underlap

C 1021041 Fabric Taslan [S02 facings (cf facing, sleeve flap and

back/underside of underlap, hem facing, sleeve facing)]

Y 4005533 group: eyelet metal HCS 3 mm, kl+U-S+U-S

felt metal antique 2col.

Y 4006008 cord stopper standard 4,5mm bluesign hood cf

Y 4006010 cord stopper singlehanded oval FO/D4,5mm

Y 4006194 tab transparent UTX/DURAFLEX bluesign back hood adjustment 100001 100001 100001

Y 4006194 tab transparent UTX/DURAFLEX bluesign cb of collar 100001 100001 100001

Modellname noch nicht im Pool angelegt

DOM1\kerler 18.08.2015 08:15:57DOM1\keinath 22.10.2015 11:57:55

DOM1\kerler 22.10.2015 14:18:04

Tiêu đề	Technical Document for Men's Trousers, Shirt, Jacket, and Vest of the Sewing Company Part 1
Trường học	University of May Garment Technology
Chuyên ngành	Textile and Garment Technology
Thể loại	Technical Document
Năm xuất bản	2016
Thành phố	Kerler

Định dạng
Số trang	41
Dung lượng	2,19 MB