Bsi bs en 22313 1992 (1999) iso 2313 1972

BRITISH STANDARD BS EN 22313 1992 ISO 2313 1972 Textile fabrics — Determination of the recovery from creasing of a horizontally folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery The European Standard[.]

BRITISH STANDARD BS EN

22313:1992 ISO 2313:1972

Textile fabrics —

Determination of the

recovery from creasing

of a horizontally folded

specimen by measuring

the angle of recovery

The European Standard EN 22313:1992 has the status of a

British Standard

UDC 677.0741.076:677.017.832:620.1

This British Standard, having

been prepared under the

direction of the Textile and

Clothing Standards Policy

Committee, was published

under the authority of the

Standards Board and comes

into effect on

15 September 1992

© BSI 07-1999

The following BSI references

relate to the work on this

standard:

Committee reference TCM/24

Special announcement in

BSI News January 1992

ISBN 0 580 21182 7

Cooperating organizations

The European Committee for Standardization (CEN), under whose supervision this European Standard was prepared, comprises the national standards organizations of the following countries

Belgium Institut belge de normalisation

Finland Suomen Standardisoimisliito, r.y

France Association française de normalisation Germany Deutsches Institut für Normung e.V

Greece Hellenic Organization for Standardization Iceland Technological Institute of Iceland

Ireland National Standards Authority of Ireland Italy Ente Nazionale Italiano di Unificazione Luxembourg Inspection du Travail et des Mines Netherlands Nederlands Normalisatie-instituut

Portugal Instituto Portuguès da Qualidade Spain Asociación Española de Normalización y Certificación

Switzerland Association suisse de normalisation United Kingdom British Standards Institution

Amendments issued since publication

BS EN 22313:1992

Contents

Page

National annex NA (informative) Committees responsible Inside back cover National annex NB (informative) Cross-references Inside back cover

ii © BSI 07-1999

National foreword

This British Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee It is the English language version of

EN 22313:1992 “Textiles fabrics — Determination of the recovery from creasing of

a horizontally folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery”, which is identical with ISO 2313:1972, published by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) It supersedes BS 3086:1972 which is withdrawn

A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application

Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations.

Summary of pages

This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, the EN title page, pages 2 to 6, an inside back cover and a back cover

This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover

EUROPEAN STANDARD

NORME EUROPÉENNE

EUROPÄISCHE NORM

EN 22313

June 1992

UDC 677.0741.076:677.017.832:620.1

Descriptors: Textiles, fabrics, bend tests, crease retention, crumpliness

English version

Textile fabrics — Determination of the recovery from creasing of a horizontally folded specimen by measuring the

angle of recovery

Etoffes — Détermination de

l’auto-défroissabilité d’une éprouvette pliée

horizontalement, par mesurage de l’angle

rémanant après pliage

Textilien Flächengebilde — Bestimmung der Knitter-Erholfähigkeit einer horizontal gefalteten Gewebeprobe durch Messung der Erholungswinkels

This European Standard was approved by CEN on 1992-06-26 CEN members

are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which

stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a

national standard without any alteration

Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national

standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any

CEN member

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French,

German) A version in any other language made by translation under the

responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the

Central Secretariat has the same status as the official versions

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium,

Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland, Italy,

Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and

United Kingdom

CEN

European Committee for Standardization Comité Européen de Normalisation Europäisches Komitee für Normung

Central Secretariat: rue de Stassart 36, B-1050 Brussels

© 1992 Copyright reserved to CEN members

Ref No EN 22313:1992

© BSI 07-1999

2

Foreword

This European Standard has been taken over by

CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” from the

work of ISO/TC 38 “Textiles” of the International

Organization for Standardization (ISO)

The document was submitted to CEN members to

the Unique Acceptance Procedure and was approved

without any modification

National standards identical to this European

Standard shall be published at the latest

by 1992-12-31 and conflicting national standards

shall be withdrawn at the latest by 1992-12-31

Following the CEN/CENELEC Common Rules, the

following countries are bound to implement this

European Standard:

Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France,

Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland, Italy,

Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal,

Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the

United Kingdom

Contents

Page Foreword

Figure 1 — Apparatus with vertical guides for

Figure 2 — Instrument for measuring the

Figure 3 — Example for taking 30 specimens

EN 22313:1992

0 Introduction

Creases in textile fabrics diminish at varying rates

on the removal of the creasing forces The

magnitude of the crease recovery angle is an

indication of the ability of a fabric to recover from

accidental creasing

1 Scope and field of application

This International Standard specifies a method for

determining the angle of recovery of fabrics from

creasing The results obtained by this method for

textile fabrics of very different kinds cannot be

compared directly

Attention is drawn to the fact that for some types of

fabrics, the limpness, thickness and tendency to curl

of the specimen may give rise to very ill-defined

crease recovery angles, and therefore an

unacceptable lack of precision in making

measurements Many wool and wool mixture fabrics

come under this heading

2 Reference

ISO/R 139, Standard atmospheres for conditioning

and testing textiles

3 Definition

crease recovery angle

the angle formed between the two limbs of a strip of

fabric previously folded under prescribed

conditions, at a specified time after removal of the

creasing load

4 Principle

A rectangular specimen of prescribed dimensions is

folded by means of a suitable device and maintained

in this state for a specified short time under a

specified load This creasing load is removed, the

specimen allowed to recover for a specified time, and

the crease recovery angle then measured

5 Apparatus

5.1 Apparatus for loading the specimen (press)

This apparatus consists of the following parts:

a) A press to apply a total load of 10 N1) on an

area of 15 mm × 15 mm of the folded specimen

It shall be possible to complete the removal of the

load within a period of less than 1 s

b) Two flat pressure plates which remain parallel

to one another throughout the period of the application of the load to the specimen On the lower plate an area of 15 mm × 20 mm shall be marked or other provisions made to facilitate correct placement of the specimen

An example of a loading apparatus is shown in Figure 1

5.2 Instrument for measuring the crease recovery

angle

The instrument consists of the following parts: a) A circular scale divided in degrees and correct

to ± 0.5° It shall be possible to read the angle correct to the nearest degree without parallax error

b) A specimen grip to hold the specimen in such a manner that the fold lies in a horizontal line through the centre of the circular scale The edge

of the grip shall lie 2 mm from the centre of the scale, as shown in Figure 2

The specimen grip shall be rotatable about this axis to keep the free limb of the specimen in a vertical position

A suitable device is shown in Figure 2

5.3 Auxiliary devices 5.3.1 Stop-watch 5.3.2 Tweezers with broad, spade shaped jaws

5.3.3 Paper or metal foil not thicker than 0.02 mm.

6 Sampling

Cut the samples so as to be as representative as possible of the whole delivery Pending the publication of an International Standard for sampling, take samples in accordance with the national standards or established rules

Newly finished fabrics and fabrics that have been subject to washing, dry cleaning or pressing treatments may show a gradual improvement in crease recovery Store samples from such fabrics for

at least 6 days under room conditions before specimens are taken

The creasing propensity for cellulosic and protein fibre materials varies with time over a much longer period than 6 days, and to cancel any ageing effects, soak these fabrics in water at 20 °C for 30 min, centrifuge and steam press while still damp before

conditioning as in 7.4.

1) Weight of a body of mass 1.019 kg is approximately equal to a force of 10 N.

4 © BSI 07-1999

7 Test specimens

7.1 Selection

In order to ensure a representative average for the

fabric to be tested, take specimens in the manner

shown in Figure 3, and ensuring that specimens are

taken not less than 50 mm from the selvedges Do

not take specimens from creased, wrinkled, bent, or

deformed parts Mark the length, for example

(warp) direction on the face side of the fabric

7.2 Dimensions

Cut rectangular specimens each 40 mm long

and 15 mm wide

7.3 Number

Unless otherwise agreed by the parties interested in

the test results, prepare not fewer than 20

specimens for each test, half of them taken with

their short sides parallel to the warp (woven fabric)

or wales (knitted fabric) or the direction marked

“length” (non-woven fabric) and the other half with

their short sides parallel to the weft (woven fabric)

or courses (knitted fabric) or at right angles to the

length direction (non-woven fabric)

7.4 Conditioning

a) Condition the specimens for at least 24 h in one

of the standard atmospheres for testing textiles

according to ISO/R 139, (20 ± 2 °C and 65 ± 2 %

relative humidity, or 27 ± 2 °C and 65 ± 2 %

relative humidity) ensuring exposure of all

surfaces to the air, for instance by placing the

specimens on wire-gauze or mesh Take suitable

steps to ensure that equilibrium is approached

from the dry side, but in no circumstances expose

the specimens to a temperature above 50 °C

After the specimens have been conditioned,

handle them solely with tweezers or rubber

fingerstalls Strict observance of all test

conditions in respect of preparation and handling

of specimens is essential if reliable values of

crease recovery angle are to be obtained

b) For high humidity determinations, condition

the specimens for at least 24 h at a temperature

of 35 ± 2 °C and 90 ± 2 % relative humidity

8 Procedure

8.1 General conditions

Conduct all testing in the test atmosphere chosen

[see 7.4 a) and 7.4 b)] Screen the testing equipment

from draughts, from the operator’s breath and from

excessive heat radiation from lighting appliances

8.2 Loading

Fold the specimen end to end and hold in this position by tweezers, gripping no more than 5 mm from the ends Where the surfaces of the specimens show any tendency to adhere, place a sheet of paper

or metal foil 18 mm × 15 mm between the limbs of the specimen (see Figure 4) Then place the specimen on the marked area of the lower plate of the loading device, and apply the load gently, without delay

Fold half the number of test specimens face to face, the other half back to back Load the specimens for 5 min ± 5 s Thereafter remove the load quickly but smoothly so that the specimen does not

suddenly spring open, completing the removal in less than 1 s By means of tweezers, transfer the specimen directly to the specimen holder of the measuring instrument To make the transfer, hold

in the flat of the forceps that arm of the specimen which is to hang down and gently introduce the other arm between the two parts of the grip as far

as — but no farther than — the back stop, taking care not to disturb the existing crease formation

8.3 Measurement of the crease recovery angle

While the specimen is in the holder, adjust the instrument continuously to keep the suspended free limb always in a vertical position

Read the crease recovery angle 5 min after the removal of the load and the paper or metal foil from the folded specimen

If the free limb twists or curls slightly, use a vertical plane through its centre and the axis of the circular scale to serve as a basis for reading the crease recovery angle

9 Expression of results

Calculate the mean value, to the nearest degree, for the following:

1) crease across length (for example, warp) direction

a) face to face, b) back to back;

2) crease across transverse (for example, weft) direction

a) face to face, b) back to back

10 Test report

The test report shall include the following particulars:

a) reference to this International Standard; b) simple designation of the tested cloth;

EN 22313:1992

c) whether a standard or high humidity

atmosphere was used;

d) date of beginning of pre-conditioning and

conditioning, and duration of exposure of the

specimens to the standard atmosphere for testing

textiles;

e) date of test;

f) number of specimens evaluated;

g) mean values calculated in accordance with section 9 for face and back of the sample, to the nearest degree in both longitudinal and

transverse directions;

h) standard deviation and confidence interval, if required

Figure 1 — Apparatus with vertical guides for loading the specimen

Figure 2 — Instrument for measuring the crease recovery angle

6 © BSI 07-1999

Figure 3 — Example for taking 30 specimens and marking length direction

Figure 4 — Folding of specimen

BS EN 22313:1992

© BSI 07-1999

National annex NA (informative)

Committees responsible

The United Kingdom participation in the preparation of this European Standard was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/24, upon which the following bodies were represented:

Association of Consulting Scientists

British Nonwovens Manufacturers’ Association

British Polyolefin Textiles Association

British Textile confederation

British Textile Machinery Association

British Textile Technology Group

British Throwsters’ Association

Confederation of British Wool Textiles Ltd

Furniture Industry Research Association

International Wool Secretariat

Ministry of Defence

National Wool Textile Export Corporation

North East Lancashire Textile Manufacturers’ Association

SATRA Footwear Technology Centre

Soap and Detergent Industry Association

Society of Dyers and Colourists

Textile Finishers’ Association

Textile Institute

National annex NB (informative)

Cross-references

ISO/R 139, which is referred to in EN 22313, has been replaced by ISO 139:1973 The corresponding

British Standard is BS EN 20139:1992 “Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing”.