Artificial climbing structuresPart 1: Safety requirements and test methods for ACS with protection points BSI Standards Publication... NORME EUROPÉENNE English Version Artificial climbin
Layout and placement of individual protection points
If there are individual protection points, the height of the first point shall not exceed 3,10 m
The distance x between the placement of the individual protection points (see Figure 1) from height h shall be determined as follows:
The distance x may have a tolerance of 10 % h is the distance between the point and the ground measured vertically, in metres, beneath the point in all cases
For protection points, the maximum distance shall be measured from the lowest internal point of the attachment point
When installing permanent quick draws, the maximum distance should be measured from the lower end of one quick draw to the lower end of another To remove a permanent quick draw, such as a chain secure element or Maillon Rapide, tools must be used to disassemble it from the climbing wall (refer to Figure 2).
Protection points attached with bolts shall be secured, so they cannot come undone, e.g with lock nuts a) b)
Figure 1 — Layout of protection points a) b)
Figure 2 — Design and placement of permanent quick draws
Design of individual top protection points
General
The rope shall not be able to escape from the top protection points at an untimely moment, e.g single- snap-gate karabiner is not sufficient
Individual top protection points shall be attached to the structure by two or more points of fixation Each fixation point shall be calculated as a protection point
Each connection between fixing points must possess a resistance that is greater than or equal to that of the points it links This resistance can be confirmed through calculations (refer to Annex A), a compliance document, or tests outlined in Annex C.
Dimensions
The minimum dimensions for all protection and stance points, excluding individual and collective top protection systems, must adhere to the specifications outlined in Figure 3 Additionally, alternative designs that satisfy the criteria of Figure 3 are also acceptable.
The bar or device that supports the rope in both collective and individual top protection systems must be rounded, as illustrated in Figure 4.
Figure 3 — Design of individual protection points
Structural integrity
Structural integrity of an ACS
To ensure the structural integrity and stability of an ACS, calculations must be performed using the characteristic loads specified in Table A.1, following the guidelines outlined in Annexes A, B, and Figure 5 It is essential that the structure, including buildings, concrete platforms, and the ground, is capable of safely supporting the loads imposed by the ACS.
Permanent protection points shall be calculated in accordance with Annexes A and B (e.g glued protection points in concrete walls)
Non-permanent protection points shall have a breaking strength in the main load direction of a minimum of 20 kN
NOTE The larger arrow indicates 6,6 kN The smaller arrow indicates 1,6 kN
Figure 5 — Placement of the loads on collective protection systems
Structural integrity of a protection point connection
All components of an ACS must be validated through calculations; however, in exceptional cases involving protection point connections—specifically the assembly that secures the protection point to the subframe—a load test as outlined in Annex C is an acceptable evaluation method.
The protection point connection must withstand the design load without experiencing any permanent deformation Additionally, it should endure the breaking load without any breakage occurring.
Impact resistance and deflection of surface elements
When evaluated per Annex D, no surface element should exhibit any breaking or splitting The panels' deflection must be determined using a load of 0.8 kN (refer to Annex A) or tested according to the guidelines in Annex D, section D.5.
When fixed according to the manufacturer's specification, the maximum deflection of the surface element shall not exceed l/100: where l is the maximum length between the fixations of the surface.
Panel insert resistance
The panel inserts will be tested for breakage resistance during the installation of climbing holds and their use on the wall, following the guidelines outlined in Annex E.
After test step c) any resulting deformation shall not exceed 0,5 mm at 1,2 kN
After procedure e) there shall be no pull out of the panel insert
Five samples (panel-insert combination) shall be tested.
Proof testing
When tested in accordance with Annex F, after settling under load there shall be no breaking, tearing or destruction of the elements after testing.
Falling space
To ensure user safety, the falling space must be free of exposed obstacles or edges that could pose serious hazards This requirement excludes climbing structures and other surfaces or walls designed to absorb accidental impacts According to Figure 6, the horizontal falling space should extend 2 meters behind, 1.5 meters on either side, and 8 meters below the protection points.
Free space
The free space shall allow the climber to land safely and other users to move without being obstructed by obstacles.
Climbing surfaces
All accessible areas of the climbing surface must be devoid of sharp edges and burrs, ensuring safety Additionally, the design of edges where the rope passes should prevent any potential damage to the rope.
Gaps between 8 mm and 25 mm with a depth greater than 15 mm that could cause entrapment are prohibited, except for features specifically designed for climbing Additionally, holes in the climbing surface of the ACS for attaching holds are not subject to this restriction.
All ACS must display a visible notice that includes the manufacturer's name or trademark, the name of the importer or supplier, the European Standard number and date (EN 12572-1:2017), and the installation date of the ACS.
The instruction manual must include essential details such as the information specified in Clause 5, the location and type of protection points on the ACS, and the maximum number of protection point lines that can be used simultaneously on the ACS.
The number of protection point lines must match the number of top protection points; if there is a discrepancy, the manufacturer should provide clarification in the manual and label the ACS accordingly Additionally, it is important to note the maximum additional load permitted per square meter for large removable elements, such as volumes, and to adhere to the specific use, maintenance, and inspection requirements outlined in Annex G.
The documentation provided to the client must include essential information such as a detailed calculation of the structural frame's stability and protection points, the specific locations of these protection points, and reports on the impact test of surface elements, proof test of the ACS, and connections test of the protection points as per Annex C, if applicable Additionally, it should contain a report on the panel insert resistance test, proper marking, and an instruction manual.
The proof tests shall be made at the first installation and all reinstallation only
For all further reconfigurations only the new calculations and visual verifications according to the standard and the manufacturer's instructions are necessary
The permanent effects consist of the self-weight of the structure and of the entire structural frame
The variable effects consist of: a) user loads (static and falling); b) snow loads; c) wind loads; d) effects of temperature; e) seismic loads; f) special loads
Load produced by falling climber on a protection point a 6,6 6,6 20,0
Proof testing serves as a verification of proper installation practices but does not substitute for calculations Experiments indicate that it is not feasible for multiple climbers to generate peak impact forces simultaneously during a fall.
Snow loads shall be taken from the Eurocodes for actions on structure, i.e EN 1991-1-3
Impacts of temperature shall be taken from the Eurocodes for actions on structure, i.e EN 1991-1-5
Seismic loads shall be taken from the Eurocodes for actions on structure, i.e EN 1998-1
Special loads can be generated e.g by ropes courses, rescue techniques, zip wires and slacklines
Method of calculation of structural integrity
Each structure and structural element, e.g connections, foundations, supports, shall be calculated taking into account the load combinations of B.2
The calculation method should adhere to the general principles and definitions for limit states outlined in the relevant structural Eurocodes 1 to 6 or equivalent national standards Limit states refer to conditions where the structure fails to meet the criteria set by this European Standard.
In symbolic form, a limit state can be written as: γF ∙ S ≤ R/γM (B.1) where γF is a partial safety factor for effects; γM is a partial safety factor for materials;
R is the resistance of the structure
In order to allow for uncertainties in the actual loads and in the model used for determining loads, loads are multiplied by a partial safety factor for loads (γF)
To account for uncertainties in material properties and force determination models, the structural strength is reduced by a partial safety factor for materials (γM).
Ultimate limit states to consider encompass: a) the loss of equilibrium of the structure or any of its components, treated as a rigid body; b) failure due to excessive deformation, rupture, or instability of the structure or its parts.
NOTE Ultimate limit states are those associated with collapse, or with other forms of structural failure which can endanger the safety of people
B.2 Combination effects for the ultimate limit state
The following combinations shall be used for verification: γG k G +γQ k,1 Q +∑ i>1 iψ γQ k,i Q (B.2) where
Gk characteristic value for permanent effects;
Qk characteristic value for variable effects as given in
A.2; γG partial safety factor for permanent effects; γQ partial safety factor for variable effects; ψ combination factor for variable effects
The following partial safety factors for effects shall be used: γG 1,0 for favourable effects; γG 1,35 for unfavourable effects; γQ 0 for favourable effects; γQ 1,5 for unfavourable effects
In case of several variable effects, the simplified method of calculation with the following combination factor may be used: ψ = 0,8
To ensure the integrity and stability of an ACS, the loads from a falling climber must be applied at the least favorable protection point Additionally, the load from the climbing team, which is twice that of a single climber, should be considered at the most unfavorable protection point for each subsequent protection point on either side of the falling climber.
The loads for both the falling climber and the climbing team, which is twice the load of a single climber, should be calculated at the most unfavorable angle of ± 12.5° from the vertical axis.
Load testing of structural integrity of protection point connections
This test assesses the static strength of protection point connections in an ACS when calculations are not feasible It is crucial that no permanent deformation occurs under the design load, and no breakage is permitted when subjected to the breaking load.
Strength measurement device, loading hook ỉ 12 mm
The protection point connection and the required ACS background structure must be manufactured from the same materials and through the same processes as the corresponding elements of the ACS they represent.
Set up the relevant protection point connection with the necessary background structure as intended in the relevant ACS
Ensure the protection point connection is loaded in the direction of a fall Apply a load equal to the design load (characteristic load multiplied by 1.5) with a tolerance of ±1% for a duration of 1 minute (±5 seconds) Permanent deformation is not acceptable.
Settling of the protection point connection is acceptable
Continue testing by applying a load corresponding to the breaking load (±1 %) of Table A.1 to the protection point connection for 1 min (±5 s)
There shall be no breakage acceptable which leads to the failure of the protection point connection
Impact test of surface elements
This test is designed to reproduce a shock perpendicular to the surface of the ACS, when the ACS is used under normal conditions
Indenter in accordance with Figure D.1