TAP CHi KHOA HOC DAI H O C T A N T R A O ISSN: 2 3 5 4 - 1431 http.//tckh daihoctantrao edu v n / Tap quan an u6ng trong le cu-ffi cua toe ngucri San Chi ff thon Dong Tam, xa Tij-c Tran
Trang 1TAP CHi KHOA HOC DAI H O C T A N T R A O
ISSN: 2 3 5 4 - 1431
http.//tckh daihoctantrao edu v n /
Tap quan an u6ng trong le cu-ffi cua toe ngucri San Chi ff thon Dong Tam, xa Tij-c Tranh, huyen Phu Luong, tinh Thai Nguyen
Nguyen Thi Hoa"', Dao Ngoc Tan"
"Tnrdng Dgi hoc Su pham Thai Nguyen
Email: hoakhoasu(Wdhsptn edu.vn
Thong tin bai viet
Ngdy nhdn bdi:
25/4/2019
Ngdy duyet ddng:
10/9/2019
Tap quan, dm thuc, Sdn
Chi, Dong Tdm, Phii Luang
Tdm tat
Thon Dong Tara, xa Tftc Tmah, huyen Phu Luang, tinh Thai Nguyen la mdt trong nhitng noi tap dnng cu tni eiia ngudi San Chi Tai day, ngudi San Chi gift duoc nhieu net van hda tmyen thong, trong dd co van hoa am thuc Tuy nhien,
ho ciing phai doi mat mdi nhieu bien ddi do lac ddng ctia thdi dai, qua trinh edng
cu vdi eac loc ngudi khac Khi nghien cftu ve van hoa am thuc ctia ngudi San Chi d Ddng Tara, chiing tdi dac biet quan tam tdi tgp quan an uong trong le cudi ciia hp Bai viet lara rd ve ngudn nguyen lieu, each c h i biln, each trang tri va thudng thuc dd an uong, nghi thuc va nghi le, dac san ciia ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam trong le cudi Nghien cuu tap quan an uong trong le cudi se cho chung ta thay duoc dac dung van hda cua ngudi San Chi, tft dd giup chimg ta thay dupc gia In van hda can phat huy trong ddi song duong dgi, dong thdi chi ra nhihig mat cdn han che can phai co giai phap d l khSc phuc
I fiat van de
M6i viing mien, moi toe ngudi cd thdi quen an
-uong neng lao nen tap quan, van hda im thue dac dung
ciia ho Van hda am thuc bao gdm toan bp moi ti-udng
van hoa dmh dudng ciia con ngudi, nhu each dang Iri
va each thuc an uong, nghi thftc va nghi le, ihuc phSm
nhu bieu tuang ciia su tmh khiet hay tdi 16i, hoac dac
san khu vuc Van hda im thuc la net van hda tu nhien
hinh Ihanh dong cude song Van hda ira thuc khong ehi
la van hoa vl vat chat ma cdn la van hoa vl dnh than
Qua am thuc ngudi ta cd thi phan nao nhan dien duoc
dinh do van hoa ciia chii thi vdi nhung dao ly, phep tac,
phong tuc dong each an uong
J f l c ngudi San Chi co van hda 4m thuc dac sac,
nh4t la dong cac dip | | tit va cac nghi thue ehu ki ddi
ngudi nhu ll cud, Ngudi San Chi cd ngu^n g6c tft
Tmng Quie, sang Viet Nara each ngay nay khoang den
dudi 500 nara, sing rai rac d ph^n Idn cac tinh Dong
Bac nhu Thai Nguyen, Tuyen Quang, Hie Giang, Bae
Kan, Cao Bang Do dieu kien tu nhien d mdi vimg cimg vdi khoang thdi gian sang Viet Nam khac nliau,
ngudi San Chi d mdi radt khu vuc lai co s4c thai neng
ve van hda ndi chung va ve tap quan an uong trong le cudi ndi neng Do dd, viec nghien cim tap quan an uong dong ll cudi cua toe ngudi San Chi d thdn Dong Tam khdng chi co y nghia tim hieu ve van hda toe ngudi ma con giup chi ra nliung net van hda neng ciia
ho Trong bdi canh toan cau hda hien nay viec nghien cim do cdn cd y nghTa nhin nhan, danli gia nhftng bien ddi ciia van hda tdc ngudi, d l xuat kien nghi d l bao tpn
va phal huy gia di van hda ciia tdc ngudi
2 Giai quyel van de
Tac gia dua vap phuang phap luan cua chu nghTa duy vat bien chftng va chii nghia duy vat lich sft de nhan dien, xem xet va danh gia ve tap quan an upng trong le cudi cua ngudi San Chi d Ddng Tam hong dieu kien lu nhien, thon hdi nhat dmh
Trang 2Trong qua trinh nghien cuu, trinh bay ket qua
nghien cim, tac gia sft dung cac phuang phap chinh nhu
tong quan tai lieu, dien da dan tdc hoc, lich sft va logic,
tong hpp, sp sanh va phan tich, phucmg phap bao tang
hoc (nghien cim tai lieu hien vat hien co trong cpng
dong), Phuong phap dien da dan tdc hoe la phuang
phap ehu dao giiip khao sat, danh gia doi tuang nghien
cim, thi thap tu heu Tac gia sft dung cac ky thuat nhu
quan sat tham du tai thuc d}a, phdng van sau, thao luan
nhdm, chup anh va khao ta
Vdi cac phuong phap neu den, tac gia nghien ciru
va lam rd tap quan an udng dong le cudi cua ngudi San
Chi d thdn Dong Tara Bai viet de cap tdi 2 van de 1
Khai quat v l thdn Dong Tam va toe ngudi San Chi, 2
-Tap quan an uong dong le cudi ciia ngudi San Chi d
Dong Tam
3 Ket qua - binh luan
3.1 Khdi qudt Ma bdn vd ddi twang nghien cuu
Thon Dong Tam thudc xa Tftc Tranh, huyen Phii
Luong, each tmng tara thanh pho Thai Nguyen
khoang 20kra v l phia Bac Ddng Tam tiep giap vdi
thon Dong Tiln d phia B i c , giap thdn Quylt Thang d
phia Tay, phia Dong giap thdn Goe Mil va phia Nam
giap thon Ddng Ludng
Ve dia hinh tu nhien, Dong Tam nam trong vimg
chuyen tiep gifta vimg nui thap va vung bat ftp, dia
hinh drong doi phftc tap bao gom ca dong bang, doi
niii va nui da Day la vung dia hinh mang linh chat ciia
viing tmng du, nhilu ddi, it mdng Ve khi hau, Dong
Tara cd dilu kien khi hau da dang raang dara tinh chat
nhiet ddi am gid miia dac trung cua khi hau Viet Nam
Trong nam, khi hau duac chia lam 2 mua rd ret, miia
ndng am tir thang 4 den thang 10, nhiet dd trang binh
khoang 25-27°C, miia dong kho han va gia lanh, thdi
gian khd han keo dai tu thang i 1 din thang 3 nam sau
Trong dia phan, thon cd mdt ddng suoi tu nhien chay
qua, cung cap nguon nudc tudi deu cho ngudi dan
Dieu kien tu nhien nhu tren da tac dpng rat Idn den
qua trinh san xuat va phat tnen krah te thdn hpi tren
dia ban thdn
Ve dan eu, vdi 9 5 % SP dan thudc tdc ngudi San
Chi (Cu dan dia phuong thudng gpi la San Chi, San
Chay), thdn Dong Tam hien cd 170 hd gia dinh gom
650 nhan khau Tai Thai Nguyen, phan Idn cac saeh
ciing huong hda diu ndi den thdi diem di chuyen ciia
ngudi San Chi tft Trung Quoc sang Viet Nam vao thdi Minh va thai nha Thanh Trpng pham vi bai viet, cin
cu vao eac tu heu dien da tai thue dia va thong qua cac Idi ke ciia nguoi gia cung khdng thuc su ro rang khien chp viec xae dmh ngupn goe cua tdc ngudi San Chi 6 Phu Luong va cu the d Dong Tam la rat khd, chua dem lai ket qua ro ret
Ve dac dilm kinh te, nong nghiep trong liia nudc chiera vi tri quan trong dong nen kinh te cua thon Ngudi San Chi khong chi thanh thao lam raong nudc
ma edn thanh thao viec lam nuong ray, Ngoai eac loai cay Iuong thuc va hoa mau nhu ngd, khoai, san, Ddng Tam cd the manh dong cay edng nghiep Trong dd cay
ehe chilm vi tri ehu dao trong nen kinh te "Cdy che duac ngir&i ddn trong xdm trong lir nhimg ndm 1956 Hien nay xdm cd 100% so ho ddn iham gia Irong che vdi 75ha dien tich Nhd cdy che ddi song ciia ngudi ddn ngdy cdng ndng cao Hien nay li 14 ho ngheo ciia xdm gidm con 1 hd, can ngheo cdn 13 hp- 70% hp khd
vd gidu, thu nhdp binh qudn Iren 4 tniu dong/ngirdi/thdng" [1] Ngoai trong trpt, Dong Tam
eon day manh chan nuoi gia siic, gia cam nhu trau,
bd, Ian, ga, vit de cung cap nguAn thuc pham, sfte keo va phan bdn cho dong raong, lam vat hien le trong
ma chay, cudi xm, cimg bai Cung vdi trdng dot, chan nudi, ngudi San Chi thudng xuyen quan tam den nguon loi tren rimg, dudi sdng suoi Nen kmh te trong trpt, chan nudi k i t hop vdi viec thu hai va danh bat eac san vat tft tren rirng, dudi suoi, trao doi buon ban nhd
le tac ddng rat Idn din van hda am thue cua ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam
Ve van hda - xa hdi, ngudi San Chi tai thdn Dong Tara smh song xen cai vdi eac toe ngudi Tay, Nung, Kmh, San Diu, Dao Ngudi San Chi ed nhilu ddng ho, M6i hp khdng cd tmdng tPC, khdng ed nha thd hp, Trpng mpt hp khong phan biet nganh tmdng, nganh thu Ho quan mem, ai sinh ra tmdc, ai nhin thay mat trdi tmdc la anh la chi, ai smh sau lam em Gia dinh ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam la gia dinh nhd phu quyen, mdi gia dinh la mdt don vi kmh te, thdn hpi tuang doi ddc lap Ngudi San Chi d Ddng Tam con Imi gift dupc nhieu net van hoa duyIn thong ca v l vat chat lln tinh than, dac biet la hat Sang Co, mua Tac Xinh va cac nghi l l trong chu ky ddi ngudi (dong do
cd le
Trang 3cudi)-3.2 Tap qudn dn uong trong le cudi cua tpc
ngudi Sdn Chid thon Ddng Tdm
3.2.1 Vdi netve li cudi cua ngudi Sdn Chi
Hon nhan hay cudi hdi la viec he trong trong cudc
ddi mdi con ngudi, la budc
ngoat trong cuoc sdng ciia mdi ea nhan L l cudi la
den hanh cac nghi le cudi hdi cho con Irai hay con gai,
nham rauc dich chinh ihuc hda moi quan he gifta hai
con ngudi, hai gia dinh thdng gia Day cung la dip de
ho hang, lang xdm, ban be gan xa din chung vui,
chung kien va chuc mftng cho ddi vo chong tre cung
gia dinh hai ben ndi, ngoai Vi vay, cac gia dinh San
Chi d Dong Tara to chuc le cudi cho cac con rat chu
dao, coi dd la raot trong nhftng ylu to quan trong, tao
nen gia dinh bin vftng
Quy trinh dam eudi ftuyin thong cua ngudi San
Chi phai trai qua cac bude iheo mdt trinh tu nhat dinh,
dd mdi budc hdn le phan anh van hda, loi ung xft gifta
con ngudi vdi con ngudi, ca nhan vdi cdng dong rapt
each ro net
Mdt la Le danh tiing - dara hdi (heng lu) Sau khi
lua chon ngudi con gai cd y dmh lay lam vo, nha dai
se bao trade cho nha gai v l ngay, gid nha dai sang ndi
chuyen Nha trai mang theo le vat va sang chi uong
nudc che, noi chuyen rdi xin thong dn cd gai ve xem
so Hai la Viec so so (leo slo), nha dai nhd thay cung
xem neu hop se cho ngudi sang nha gai ban ngay an
hdi va ban le vat thach cudi Ba la Le an hdi (tiu vd)
Nha trai cft doan an hdi sang nha gai mang theo sinh
le Hai ben thuang Iuong le vat thach cudi Trade day,
viec Ihuong luong ve le vat Ihach cudi dien rat lau, cd
khi raat ca buoi, chi khi nao hai ben thoa thuan, thong
nhat duoc vdi nhau v l le vat thach cudi, nha gai radi
thit ga, lam dee dai khach Bfta dee le hdi thdng
thudng tir 3 din 5 mam com Trong bfta dec tai nha
gai, dng mpi dai dien ho nha trai se dao doi vdi nha
gai ve du kiln hdn le ngay, gid ddn dau Bdn la
Chuan bl chp le cudi Cdng viec ehuan b| le cudi cua
ngudi San Chi dupc chuan bi chu dap tft rat sdm, co
tlie tmdc dd mot hoac hai nam Nha trai phai chuan bi
day du do le thach cudi eua nha gai, tat ca dd le thach
cudi phai dupc dua sang nha gai trudc dam eudi mdt
ngay Le vat cua nha dai mang sang nha gai la mot
eon ion cdn song, mou, gao, trau cau Con lan duac
nha trai tinh loan sao cho cd dong luong gan sat vdi
so thit ma nha gai thach cudi dung d l lam cd Le vat mang sang nha gai cd mpt so dilu cam ki nhu khi rdt mou cho nha gai khdng duoe rdt het, ma phai de lai mdt it vdi y nghia de lay phiic cho ddt dai gai, thit Ian
xong can len neu thieu 10 kg ixb len thi phai bii, thfta
10 kg thi duac mang vl, dudi 10 kg thi khdng phai bu Thft nam la ngay cudi (hach chau hay dam chau) Le cudi tmyIn thong ciia ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam thudng diln ra trong 3 ngay ngay thii nhal chuan b) thit Ion, thit ga, gia banh giay, ngay thft hai la nha trai dua ll vat sang nha gai ddn dau va dua dau d nha gai; ngay thft 3 (sau 3 sang) con gai, con r l ve lai mat nha
bo me va va an tong kit (dau Ion) dam cudi Trong dam cudi tmyen ihong cua ngudi San Chi, hai gia dinh to chftc bita tiec ehung radi anh em ho hang den chung vui Ngoai ra, hai gia dinh bao gid ciing chuan
bl mpt bfta tiec danh neng cho b^n be nam nft eua cd dau (d nha gai), ciia chii r l (d nha trai) Bfta tiec duoe
to chftc vap buoi tPi, tu hop nhung nam thanh, nu Hi den du tiec chiic vm cho ed dau chu re cung gia dinh Trong bfta dec (hach bdn) cdn cd cac hpat ddng van hda van nghe nhu hat vi, hat doi dap , Nha trai cft doan dl don dau Khi vao nha gai, dai dien nha trai la dng quan lang, dng mdi cung ngoi ndi chuyen vdi dai dien nha gai tmdc ban thd gia tien nha gai Nha gai sap bfta com rat thmh soan de tilp dai nha trai Trong bfta com, nha gai cft nhftng ngudi cd kha nang an ndi
va CO kha nang uong mou tdt dl chiic mou nha trai, sau dd doan ddn dau ngii lai nha gai I dem Trong dem do 2 ben nam nft thanh men cd Ihl hat Sang co Sang hom sau, tmdc gid ddn dau v l nha trai, nha gai don c6 cho nha trai Sap din gid don dau, th4y ciing lam ll ra ma cho co dau Sau do, nha gai co doan dua dau sang nha Irai Sang ngay hdm sau ll cudi, co dau
va chu d l thuc hien nghi thftc L l lai mat {vui mm) gia
dinh nha ed dau va nha ong m6i 6 hai noi diu \h chftc
bua com 4 - 5 mam
Nhu v5y, trong 15 cuo, coa ngum San Chi 6 DSng Tam CO cac bOa fSc nho 4-S mam va co 2 b8a Uec Chung Ion va, chuc mam tuy li,„„g khi,^_ ^„ ^,_^^ cila gta dinh Trong cac blla an, nguoi San Chi 6 d,a phuong c6 tip quan neng iro ihanh thanh Ic chung cua cac g,a dinh v l mon an, nghi ihirc, di4u c V k, trong an uong
isa
Trang 43.2.2 An uong Irong li cu&i cita ngirdi Sdn Chi
Ve Nguon nguyen vat lieu duac khai thac d l e h l
biln, phuc vu viec an udng N l u nhu trong thdn hdi
tmyen thong, nguon thftc an cd tft khai thac va eanh
tac nong nghiep chilm vi tri chu dao Nguyen heu chu
dao van la gao nep, gao te, thit Ipn, thit ga, ben canh
do la thit trau, thit bd, tdm, ca va cac loai rau cu,
qua, cay la
Dieu dac biet, doi vdi nha gai, hau het cac nguyen
lieu chinh d l chuan bi cho viec an uong trong le cudi
la do nha trai mang den Vi nhu, Sinh le an hdi gdm
CO mdt ddi ga thien, 2 chai FUOTJ trang, 2 dau gao nep,
2 dau gao te, dau cau le vat thach cudi gom co, 60 lit
mou, 100 kg thit Ion, 60 dau gao vdng bac tay mdt
doi, khuyen tai bac mdt ddi, nhan mot ddi, mdt chan
chien (Dd thach cudi cd the xe dich tuy theo su
ihuong luong gifta ddi ben nha Irai va nha gai) Ganh
le cua doan di ddn dau gdra cd 24 chiec banh day
nho, 2 chiec banh day to, 2 tam vai, radt tam nhudm
cham, radt tam trang (gpi la vai khd udt) de tra cdng
sinh thanh, duong due cua bo me ciia cd gai, 2 con ga
thien, 2 eon ga dd, 2 chai ruou
Ngay nay nguon Iuong thue, thuc pham do raua
ban, trao doi duoc ba con su dung nhieu hon bdi su
tien dung cua nd Cung vi thi ma ngay nay, mam cd
cudi cfta ngudi San Chi d day phong phu hon nhieu
Moi mam cd deu duoc bay ihera radt so mdn mdi
duoc ngudi dan rat ua chudng nhu hai san Tuy nhien
gao, thit Ion, thit ga, rau cu qua vSn la nguyen heu chu
dao Chinh vi su thay doi nay nen sinh le, le vai thach
cudi cung thay ddi khdng cdn yeu cau thil, banh, mou,
gap Trong gia dinh ngudi San Chi khi ed con trai con
gai Idn den tupi dung vo ga chong, thudng nudi hai
den ba con Ion de lam do thach eudi hoac de che bien
CO dai khach trong ngay cudi Ngoai lan, mdi gia dinh
con nuoi ga, nuoi vit,ngan ngdng, , chuan bi thu
luom cac san vat san ed trong thien nhien nhu mang
khd, mdc nhi, nam huong , cdn lai la mua, hoac
khong tu trong, chan nudi duac thi raua loan bd
Ve Ipai hinh va each thftc che bien dd an - liong su
dung trpng le eudi Doi vdi mdn an trong cac ngay le,
dac biel la trong ngay cudi dupe chuan bi rat cau ki va
da dang, Cac mdn an thi tiiy thudc vao tin nguong cua
moi ddng ho va dilu kien kinh t l cua raoi gia dinh
Trong mam cd ed ca do an khong cd nudc (do nudng
xao, kho, an sdng, gio cha, cac loai banh trai, ) va dd
an cd nudc (cac loai canh, khau nhuc, ) Thdng thudng, mot mara cd trong dam cuth cua ngudi San Chi thudng cd 1 dia thil Ion lupc (chui nhdc), I dia gid lua (gio), I dia long (chieng chui chong), 1 bat till canh (vun hoong va), 1 dia thit ga luoc (chiera cay nhuc), 1 bat xuong bung du du (rade qua ap cpt) 1 bat canh ehuoi nau vdi xuong Ipn (chiu chay trai), 1 (Ka thit kho tau (nhoc cau), 1 dia thil nudng (chlch nhuc),
I td com (chin mdi phdn), 1 dTa banh day (tiec xdi et)
Thit Ipn la mdn khdng thi thieu va la mdn chu luc trong CP cudi, vi du nhu cac mdn thft Ion lupc (chui nhdc), thit Ion nudng (lo mau chlch), khau nhuc, sudn ran gid
Sudn ran sudn Ion chat doan sudn to chat radt de, sudn nhd chat hai de, radi doan dai 3cra Cho mdt bat
an com nudc luoc qua, vdt ra de rao nudc Dun md ndng gia, eho sudn vao ran Ran nho lua d l sudn chin roe xuong Khi mieng sudn da vang deu, gap ra dia Cung cd the tam hot my vao d l ran
Gid - Cha Ngudi San Chi biet gdi kha nhieu loai gio Dong bao thudng lay thit ihu thai nho roi xao ky vdi cac loai gia vi nhu mdc nhi, nam huong, hanh va mdt so gia vi khac roi bd lai bang la chuoi hoac la dong sau dd lay tre che thanh to ep chat cho nd chay bdt mo, nudc goi la gid Ihu, Ngoai gid thu con cd gio
md, gid lua Ben canh cac loai gid, dong bao cung biet lam cac loai nem, cha Cha cua ngudi San Chi cung kha ddc dao Ho khdng goi thit vao ran ngay ma lay thit nam lai luoc qua roi mdi dem ran
D I lara cha nem, nguyen lieu gom cd thit ba chi, mdc nhT, miln, du du xanh, hanh hoa, banh da nem, nudc cham, muoi, hat tieu dam, dt dudng, my chinh Thit Ion nia sach, bam nhd, udp gia vi Mdc nhi, nam huong ngam nd nia sach, bd chan, thai chi Gia dd rua sach, nhat r l , de rao nudc Dap tning danh nhuyin Cho lat ca thit, nam huong, mpc nhi, mien, gia vi vao trdn diu, banh da nem da tham mot ehiit nudc du am dat len mam Lay thia xuc nhan dat vao gifta roi cudn gdi lai, dudng kinh banh khoang 2cm, dai 5-7 cm Cho md vap chao, dun ndng gia,ran nem chin vang ca cac mat, vdt ra d l rao md, rdi cat mdi chile thanh ba doan bay len dia Pha nudc ehara bang nudc mam, dam, dt, tdi, dudng, my chinh va mdt chut nudc sdi d l ngudi, an vdi nudc cham va bun
Trang 5cho do dinh roi 1
bang long ban lay up t
Khau nhuc la mot mon an ngon doi vol ngua,
Chi Khau nhuc duoc Ch4bi4n til Ihit ta Nguoi la lUa
chon loai thu ba chi ngon, it mo, cat Ihanh limg kho 10
va day Vice Ai bijn mon an nay rdt cau ky bang
nhiju cong doan ph»c tap cimg vol v,ec sii dung cac
loa, 6,a v, nhu hanh, 16,, giing my chinh, ngu v
Thong thuiing, dSng bao diing th,l ba chi da do Banh dSy
bat banh Banh day co nha lam nho hai cat vao nhau thanh mot cap,
ha, mat ho ben tren va ben dil*i co dai tren la chuoi cat Iron vita vcn cai banh
Co hai loai banh day - banh day IrSng va banh dSy trang duoc lam Iron dan Iren la chuoi
r Z c h r " : : : : : ^ " : - - ^ " - « S k g g a o h i d u o c k h o a n g , S : O c h c b a n h a a m
6, nhon Cham d k vao phSn da bi, iSy „han binh, nguoi ta chon do xanh long vang, cho vao
ra b « mS Khi cham xong c& xay vo dJu hai nila r i l ngam vao nuoc nong cho
Ngam xong, dem ii ra dai sach vo, nhat
Dimg que Ire vot r
lay bop k j cho Ihit Het r
dim nuoc giing dim gao mu6i, duong phen pha vdi d6 roc v6
xi dSu sa vao phin bi rSi ran ,ua va ti^p luc cho vao ,an r6i cho cho i& chin, sau do gia nho toi Dung do
nuoc nong d£ bi co do x6p Lai cho gia vi sat dju vao , „ va mo Ion viii banh theo y thich Banh day lam miJng Ihit va uop trong vong mot gio dSng h i Sau do ^„„g phia tring, deo, do b o lot thom ngon
thai mi4ng thit thanh cac p h k neng, mSi phSn co kich „ j , ^ , ,^,„ j ^ „ j j ^ j ^ „ans smg nha g/» ng«in thudc khoang 2,5 X 2,5 cm nhung o m6i phSn deu phai ^^ ^^^^ ,^„, „,i;, ^^, jd„A iron thai to (liltoang 2l<g moi g,0 duoc ca Tron ISn cac loa, g,a Vl nhu girng, toi, dia ^^^^ , _ ^ ^ ^ , „ „ g ^ j „ „,s, irSng hom ram Day la loai hSn, hat sen, nSm huong lam nlian LSy hat ticu, nSm j ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ j j ^ „ ^ „,,^„ ,t,i hien su linh lOiiil dang
bo hom gia nat de lay nuoc bop qua thit rot de vao bat ^^^^ ^^^^ j ^ ^^ „ j „ [4^ ,r 99]
con Cling cac loai gia VI da Iron Khi mieng thit ngam
da dli gia vi, ngucii ta oho Ihit vao trong not hap
khoang 2 giir diing h6 thi chin Thit chin se rat mem
va CO mau mat mia Dem iip nguoc bat lat de phan thit
hp xuong duoi, phan bi vang uom noi tren mieng bat
trong that hdp cimg Ihom quyen ril Khi bay co, moi
mam bao nhieu nguiii thi dat bay nhieu bat
Dac biel, c6 cuoi cua nguoi San Chi khong the
thieu dl bat tiet canh Bat tie! canh co mau do, tuong
trung cho hanh phiic va nhiirng gi may mdn nhat
Mon til thit ga, chii yeu la Ihit ga luoc (chigm cay
nhuc)
-Muin lam xoi dd xanh ngtlin la phdl ngdm gao vdo nuac Iniac khi ndu l<hodng 1-2 glir dl xanh phai xay VS bo vo Dimg cho ddi nung di do xoi Gao nip
di phia dum dd xanh di len Khi chin Idy ddu xanh
ra cho vdo chao ddo diu vai mu6i ma sau do mm cho XOI vdo Iron Ihdnh xoi dd xanh Con doi vai xoi do bdo idy la bay san rim sach dun so,, loc Idy nuac mdu dd con bd bd di Ngdm gao nip vao nuac mau do cho gao Ihdnh mdu do roi dd vao cho ( co cho Ihim mudi I xdi se cd mdu do def [3, Ir 253, 254]
Trong mam c5 cum nguoi San Chi con co dia banh chung Ngucii San Chi thuting goi banh chung dai Cac loai banh Banh ddy ia mot loai banh ngon va Logi hanh nay do lan dupc ky nen khi an rat den va
a do le khong the thieu trong tuc cuoi hoi cua nguoi ^gon De lam banh nay, nguiii ta chon gao nep cat hoa San Chi Banh day duoc lam tir gao nep va do xanh
De lam banh day ngon, ngucii ta chon gao nep cai
hoa vang khong lan te Phai chon loai hat gao rong,
nhat sach thoc, san lan trong gao , sang say sach het
nhat sach san, thoc lln trong gao ngam trong nucic sach Ngam dooc 3-4 dong h6 Ihi vol ra ra, dai
k j roi de rao nucic Ihi trgn gao vao mot ohut muoi trdng Do xanh diing de goi banh la loai do khong bi dau may thi banh moi deo Cho gao vao ngam khoang mot, may deu, d6 duac xay v 5 dot roi ngam vao trong
3 gio dong ho lay ra vo, da, sach vol gao ra ra de roc nudc nong cho troc vo Ngam xong cho do vao ra oe nuoc rot do vao ch5 do xcii, dun soi khoang 30 phut dai sach vo xay roi them mot it muoi trang vao nhan gao no mong la duoc Cho xoi vao coi, diing chay cao d6 cho banh co vi dam da Thit dimg de goi banh gdn bdng ddu nguoi gia, hai ngucn m6i nguoi mot chung la loai thit 1cm ba chi, thit duac thai mieng day chay, ngucn nhdc len, nguoi gia xuong cho hai dau khoang 1-1,5 cm, dai 7cm Thit nay duc?c tdm gia vi, chay cham vao nhau Thinh thoang phai boi mo Ion muoi va hat tieu La diing de goi banh la loai la dong vao ddu chay de xoi khoi dinh, khi nao thdy mau Irong banh le Khi got banh la diroc nia sach, lau kho ro
Trang 6dupc dpc bdt phan cuong va than la cho d l gdi, cung
cd the ludc qua la cho m I m Lat gdi banh lay tft cay
giang, pha thanh cac thanh nhd, Idt mdng
Khi gdi banh dat mdt chiec la dong xuong d l la goi
len tren lat (dung 2 den 3 la) lay bat an com vuc nfta
bat gao da duoc vo dai sach rai d i u theo chieu cfta la
Sau do dat mdt luot thit Ipn da udp hat tieu rdi lai cho
mpt luot do kin thit va mdt Iut?t gao kin dd Dung hai
tay chap hai mep la vao nhau quan long vao sat banh,
mdt tay gift d gifta, mdt tay vuot thang ra dau roi doi
cho tay kia sau do bupc xoan chiec lat d gifta d l giftu
CO dmh va gap rapt dau banh lai Dung chile banh len
don cho chat gao, phia dau kia ctlng gap la rdi buoc lat
luong tu Banh gdi xong cho vao noi do ngap nudc d l
luoc Banh chung ludc cang ky cang ngon nhung it
nhat Cling phai du 12 gid dong hd mdi duac Banh
chin ky thi vdt ra cho vao nudc sach rua hit ma dinh
ben ngpai sau dd cho barih len mam va lay tay lan
manh C\i Un di Ian lai cho banh chay hit nudc dpng
trong la de banh duoc den va rain Khi an bdc mdt dau
roi lay day giang tudc nhd de xat mieng, bay tren dia
Ben canh dd an cdn la thiie uong Trong mam cd
cudi, mou la thuc uong chii yeu Ngudi San Chi
ihudng nau raou lu gao nep, gao te, san, ngd
Tmdc kia de nau duoc raou ngudi San Chi phai
lu che bien men m o u Ho vao ning tim cay chi thien
(pie tui mieng) cay gieng (kiesng liiejo), cay dam (lot
heo) ve gia nhd, u cho len men, trdn vdi bdt gao te,
nan thanh banh nhd rdi phai khd, cat len gac bep de
diing dan Kmh nghiem cua nhftng ngudi nau raau
cho biet thdi tilt la y l u to anh hudng den su thanh
cong hay that bai ciia mdt me m o u cdn so luang va
chat luong cua m o u lai phu thudc vao qua trinh len
men co tdt hay khdng
Ve each nau mou, ho raang gao n i p hoac gao te
dem nau chin, do ra, khi sd tay thay hai am thi rac
men vao cho diu (neu la mua ddng) hoac d l ngudi
(neu la miia he) roi cho vao chau lot nildng hoac vai u
khoang 2-3 ngay (neu la mua he) hoac 4-5 ngay (nlu
la miia ddng), do nudc vao u tiep nfta, rad ra thay
bong m a u noi len thi dem di nau Do nau raau gom
mot chile noi bang dong hoac nhdm, mdt bd phan lam
lanh chuyen hoi raau thanh m o u lam bang chap de
dung d l dung nuoc dat tren mdt chiee chd (neu la eho
go, nay ho dung cho nhdm da gom ca bd phan lam nat
gom 2 tang), trong cho cd mot bd phan b§ng gd (nlu
la chd gd) d l hftng raou chay ra 6ng din bang d e Ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam cd quan mem "khach den nha, tmdc uong tra, sau uong m o u " Vi vay, trong
le cudi khong the Ihilu nudc tra pha tft thanh pham che do chinh ngudi dan trong Tra duoe mdi khach tmdc va sau bfta an Ngoai ra, ngudi San Chi cung thich uong cae loai nudc dun tft eay, la rimg, bdi theo
ho, uong cac loai cay nay se tot cho sfte khde
Mara cd duac bay bien don gian, khdng cau ki Xua ngudi San Chi chi ngoi 4 ngudi dong mdt mam
cd bdi dong bao tin rang so 4 la eon so tot, la tir lm, nd cdn tugng trung chp bon phuong trdi Trong ngay trong dai, cac mam co dupe bay dat d cac vi tri trong nha ngoai san nhung vi tri duoc cpi la quan trong nhat trong ngdi nha la d gian gifta, gan cfta ehinh, phia tmdc ban thd gia tien Day la vi tri duoc danh cho thay cung, dng mpi va ngudi bac tren trong hai ho noi ngoai ciia co dau, chu re Trong gia dinh, con dau khdng ngoi chung mam vdi bd chong va anh chong Cung vdi su bien doi ve nguon nguyen lieu va do
an thi each ftng xft trong an uong ngay le cudi cua ngudi San Chi d thon Dong Tam cung cd su thay doi Tuc giup nhau trong ngay cudi cung cd su thay doi Xua, ngudi la thudng giup nhau ve thung thdc, thung gao, con Ion, con ga roi ca nha den an cd Nay,
ai di an co diu phai theo le mftng tiln (phong bi) So ngudi trong mdt mara cd cung thay doi Ngudi ta khong ngoi bon nhu trade nfta ma tat ca deu ngoi m6i mam sau ngudi Trft nhftng ngudi ed vai ve dong lang, trong ho cdn ihanh men nam nft deu ngoi cung vdi nhau trong rapt mara Cd cudi cung duoc bay bien ra ban trong rap
Trong le cudi, an uong la viec rat quan dpng va duac gmp dd bdi ho hang Vi vay, ngudi nau bep duoe
d l cao Khi cd dau duoc don ve nha dai, nghi le dau tien ia viec ba nau com phuc vu dam eudi lay cat re noi hoac dng tmdng bep dat cai ro Ion ra can dudng, eo dau phai da may dong xu roi mdi duoc di tilp
4 Ket luan - Kien nghj Tdc ngudi San Chi d thdng Dong Tam, xa Tue Tranh huyen Phu Luang, tinh Thai Nguyen cd van hoa tmyen thong ndi chung va nghi thftc cudi xm dac sic, dac biet la tap quan an uong dong le cudi Van hda am thuc trong le cudi phan anh dac diem kinh te
Trang 7-xa hdi, van hda ciia tdc ngudi d dia phuong Qua
nghien cim chung ta da thay su bien dpi khdng nhd
su mai mdt va nguy eo bi biln mat ciia van hda eudi
xin tmyIn thong, tap quan an uong trong le cudi ciia
ngudi San Chi do tac ddng ciia co che thi tmdng, ihdi
k>' hdi nhap
Hien nay, viec bao ton va gift gin ban sac van hda
dan toe San Chay d ihdn Ddng Tam da va dang duac
chinh quyen rat quan tara Ngay 15/5/2017, tai thon
Dong Tain xa Tftc Tranh, UBND huyen Phii Luang to
chftc Hdi nghi triln khai Du an bao Ion va phat huy
ban sac van hda dan tdc San Chay gan vdi phal tnen
du lich cdng dong xdm Ddng Tara xa Tftc Tranh giai
doan 2017 - 2020, dinh hudng din 2025 Do cung la
du an quang ba ve xdra Dong Tam vdi nhftng net van
hda dac tmng cua tdc ngudi San Chi Viec bao ton tap
quan an uong trong le eudi se gdp phan lam cho du an
quang ba trd nen da dang va hap dan hon doi vdi
kliach du hch, lao d i m nang Idn v l phat triln du hch
tinh Thai Nguyen, huyen Phft Lucmg ndi chung va cua
thdn Dong Tam, xa Tftc Tranh noi neng De thuc hien
dd can cd su quan tam cua Dang va Nha nudc, su vao
cuoc cua chinh quyln dia phuong, su chung tay cua Idc ngudi San Chi d day
TAI U E U T H A M K H A O
1 Lan Anh (2016), ,Vom Ddng Tdm don nhdn tdng nghi che truyin thdng, phuluong thainguyen gov
vn/-/xom-ong-lam-on-nhan-lang-nghe-che-tmyen-thong
(11/04/2018)
2 Hoang Quoc Bao (2013), Ddi sdng vdn hoa cita ngirdi Sdn Chay a huyen Dmh Hoa linh Thdi Nguyin (1986-2010) Tmdng Dai Hoc Su Pham Thai Nguyen,
Tmng tam Hoc Lieu - Dai Hoc Thai Nguyen
3 Khong Diln - Tran Binh (2011), Ddn tdc Sdn Chay d I 'lel Nam Nxb Van hoa dan tdc Ha Noi
4 Nguyin Thu Minh (2016), Tuc cudi hoi ciia ngudi Cao Lan - Sdn Chi a Bdc Giang Nxb My thuat,
HaNdi
Custom of culinary in wedding ceremony of san chi ethnic in Dong Tam hamlet, Tuc Tranh commune, Phu Luong district, Thai Nguyen province
Nguyen Thi Hoa, Dao Ngoc Tan
A r t i c l e info
Recieved
25/4/2019
Accepted:
10/9/2019
Keywords
Custom, culinary San
Chi Dong Tam, Phu
Luong
Dong Tara hamlel, Tuc Tranh commune, Phu Luong dislnct, Thai Nguyen province
IS one of the places where San Chi people gather Here, the San CIn people retain many Uadidonal cultures, including culinary culture However, they also face new changes due to the unpad of the era, the process of eo-hving with other etimic groups When studymg the culinary culture of the San Chi people in Dong Tam, we were particularly interested in their wedding eating and dnnking habits The article clanfies the source of raw matenals how to prepare, decorate and enjoy food, ntuals and cereraonies, specialdes of the San Chi people m Dong Tam at the wedding Studymg the eadng and dnnking habits at the wedding will show us the culdiral charactenstics of the San Chi people, thereby helping us to see the culhiral values of pure customs and traditions that need to be promoted in life Contemporary, at the same time discovenng the limitadons that need soludons overcome