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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 193

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Tiêu đề On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen
Chuyên ngành Food Science and Cooking
Thể loại book
Năm xuất bản 2013
Định dạng
Số trang 2
Dung lượng 122,38 KB

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Custards are tenderest when heated gently, and so are best cooked in an open water bath — one, however, that is sure to reach at least 185ºF; otherwise the mix may never completely set..

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in a thick cast iron pan or passes through infrared-transparent glass than is transmitted by thin stainless steel So in a moderate oven, a cast-iron water bath may reach 195ºF/87ºC, a glass bath 185ºF/ 83ºC, and a stainless one 180ºF/80ºC If the pans are covered with foil, then evaporative cooling is prevented, and all of them will come to a full boil

Custards are tenderest when heated gently, and so are best cooked in an open water bath — one, however, that is sure to reach at least 185ºF; otherwise the mix may never completely set Many cooks take the precaution of folding a kitchen towel in the bottom of the water bath so that the custard cups or dish won’t be in direct contact with the hot pan, but this can backfire: the towel prevents the water from circulating under the cups, so the water trapped there reaches the boil and rocks the cups around A wire rack works better

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cheesecake as a custard, probably because the presence of eggs is masked by the richness of the filling they bind together, which is some combination of ricotta cheese, cream cheese, sour cream, heavy cream, and butter The

proportions for cheesecake are similar to

those for other custards, approaching 1 egg per cup/250 ml of filling, though the greater richness and tartness of the filling demand more sugar for balance, around 4 tablespoons per cup (60 gm per 250 ml) instead of 2 Flour

or cornstarch is sometimes included to

stabilize the gel and, in the case of ricotta

cheesecakes, to absorb water that may be

released from the fresh cheese

The thick texture and high fat content of cheesecake filling necessitate more delicate treatment than a standard custard Instead of a preliminary cooking on the stovetop, the sugar

is first mixed into the cream ingredients, and the eggs then incorporated along with other

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