Tạp chí Cabodia ASIA LIFE tháng 01/2014

Tạp chí Cabodia ASIA LIFE tháng 01/2014

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The first of January is a time for hangovers and, when

the fog clears a little, new hopes Who hasn’t started

the international New Year with the aim of kicking a

vice, like smoking or biting your nails, learning a new

skill, or losing an extra pound or two?

Yet, as months pass by, good intentions can fall by

the wayside Perhaps some ambitious aims, like giving

your life a total overhaul, are just too big to handle But,

worry not, rather than thinking of the big picture, there

are plenty of little ways to spice up your life.

This month, our cover feature details some practical

measures that can inspire you to fulfil a multitude of

goals, such as getting fit, finding your inner creativity and

making the most of the diversity Cambodia has to offer

We hope that our suggestions have the potential

to help kick-start 2014 in a positive way, whatever

your interests may be And don’t forget, if you feel

your resolve flagging, there’s always Chinese New

Year on Jan 31 and Khmer New Year in April to start

afresh, again.

Elsewhere in this issue, Marissa Carruthers has

sought advice from Cambodia Biker Club on how riders

can stay safe on the road It highlights the importance

of adequate insurance and a good-quality helmet, and I

have to agree Even if you are the best driver on earth,

the chaos of Cambodia’s roads (and its daredevil

drivers) is a force to be reckoned with And, after all, it’s

much better to be safe than sorry.

This edition also features a spread of children’s

photographs, sourced throughout Cambodia as part of

a nationwide competition The youngsters who took

part, especially when you consider their age, captured

the spirit and community of a nation, complete with a

unique view-point that only a child can bring.

So, as a New Year dawns, their excellent images

have ensured that my resolution is to make the most of

this wonderful country and the opportunities it brings I

hope it might be yours too.

Ellie Dyer

note from the editor

Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia:

Mark Bibby Jacksonmark@asialife.asiaManaging Editor Cambodia:

Ellie Dyerellie@asialife.asiaAssociate Editor:

Marissa CarruthersEditorial Assistant:

Joanna MayhewEditor-at-Large Cambodia:

Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen Siem Reap:

Joanna WolfarthDistribution:

Sorn Chandara

096 9999 351Printing:

Sok Heng Printing House

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke

jonny@asialife.asia Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh)oh@asialife.asia

Art Director Cambodia:Hilary FastierPhotographers:

Charles Fox & Conor WallSales Director Cambodia:Sorn Chantha

chantha@asialife.asiasornchantha@yahoo.comSales and Accounts: Seang Seiha

012 581 455Accountant:

Seang SatyaAsiaLIFE Group

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Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Gemma Mullen, Dr Lucy Haurisa, Paul Dodd, Abby Seiff, Clothilde Le Coz, Anna Clare Spelman, David Preece, Ryan Taylor and Cambodia Restaurant Association – for their contribution to this issue

Next time you're in Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download it from www.asialifemagazine.com

On the CoverPhotography: Conor WallArt Direction: Hilary Fastier

12 Picks of the Month

14 Openings

16 Dispatches

18 Phnom Penh Calendar

20 Photo Essay

24 Q&A: Kang Rithisal

26 New Year, New Start

32 Safe Ride, Safe Life

34 A Child's Eye View

46 Behind the Design

48 Wish You Were Here

style & design

34

012014

ISSUE85

46 38

20

Jan 2014

Tony Hawk Stops off At

Skateistan

Legendary skateboarder Tony

Hawk showcased his skills when

he stopped off at the Skateistan

centre in Phnom Penh on Nov

28 It was an emotional visit for

the American who was able to

meet Srey Neang, the child he

sponsored during a trip to the

country six years ago, for the first

time “Being given the chance

to see her here with all the other

kids is just amazing,” he told

AsiaLIFE Hawk sponsored the

17-year-old after visiting the

Cambodian Children’s Fund

and has been paying for her

education ever since Srey

Neang was able to hand over a

photo album of her life, before

being treated to a private skateboarding lesson “When I came here last time there was no sign of skateboarding anywhere,”

says Hawk, who is renowned for completing the first documented

900 — a 2.5 aerial spin — as well as a series of video games

“It’s incredible what they are doing here because skating

is a good way to get kids active and playing together but not necessarily against each other,” he says Skateistan Cambodia is an NGO that was launched in 2011 after proving

a hit in Afghanistan It provides educational and recreational facilities for vulnerable children

For more information, visit kh.skateistan.org

Great Britain by Tuk-Tuk

Cambodia is being educated

on Britain’s diverse culture after Ambassador Mark Gooding launched 300

“Great” British tuk-tuks onto the capital’s streets on Dec

3 Each tuk-tuk carries

an image representing the European country’s diversity, heritage, creativity and innovation Pictures include the Houses of Parliament, the Scottish Highlands, Stonehenge and the Angel

of the North The aim is to showcase contemporary Britain alongside the historic,

as well as highlighting the creativity of country as the birthplace of bands including The Beatles and artists such

as Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst and Banksy It also produced Shakespeare and is home to world-famous universities such as Oxford and Cambridge “I am delighted

to launch our Great British tuk-tuks to raise awareness

in Cambodia of Great Britain,

a country that is both familiar and surprising, a small island with big ideas,” Ambassador Gooding said For more information, visit the UK in Cambodia Facebook page.

On The Grid

The Asian Development Bank and Australia are expanding access to reliable energy for rural households in Svay Rieng and Kampong Cham provinces,

it was announced last month A

$6.1 million Australian Aid grant, administered by the bank, will finance the construction of

220 kilometers of voltage and 400 kilometers of low-voltage electricity lines in Svay Rieng province, where less than 20 percent of houses are connected to continuous energy The project will connect

medium-an additional 8,000 households

in the province to the electricity grid, while promoting the use

of up to 90,000 fuel-efficient cook-stoves in rural areas of Kampong Cham province

Showing Secrets

Artist Oeur Sokuntevy is presenting an exploration of

sub-conscious and dream-like imagery at Java Café on Sihanouk

Boulevard, Phnom Penh, until Jan 12 The new series of paintings

investigates the concept of personal secrets The works feature

scenes and portraits of fictional characters where something

is clearly going on beneath the surface, whether it is portrayed

by a hand signal or a facial expression Feminine iconography

is well represented while textiles, like traditional sarongs, are

depicted with intricate details The ever-present flower imagery

also takes on a different manifestation in every piece.

Sleep’in Cambodia

A new photography book that celebrates the humble nap has been

launched Sleep’in Cambodia by Greg Mo captures images of

indi-viduals slumbering throughout Cambodia The photographs feature

a myriad of subjects and locations Guards, merchants, tuk-tuk

and motorcycle drivers, as well as everyday people, have been

snapped in sleep, wherever the urge to doze struck The 52-page

book retails for $19 and is on sale at Monument Books, DisPlay,

FCC riverside, Carnet d’Asie and D’s Books.

Inspired by pagoda murals, the respected artist’s striking lacquered pieces capture ordinary people

performing daily activities, exploring the line between the common and sacred The talented Takeo-born artist left Cambodia as a child in

1980 and, after graduating from the Fine Art School in Paris, returned to revive the Kingdom’s arts and crafts The exhibition runs until Feb 28

Handicrafts Celebrated

This month’s Angkor Handicraft Fair will bring together more than 100 exhibitors from across Cambodia to celebrate traditional Khmer arts and crafts Over the course of five days, visitors can expect live demonstrations of crafts such as silk weaving, stone carving, ceramics, lacquer- work and jewellery making

There will also be a fashion show, circus performances and traditional music, dance and puppet shows The event takes place in Raffles Gardens, Siem Reap from Jan 9 to 13

Gibbon Release

A pair of pileated gibbons was released into the Angkor forest last month, as part

of a joint initiative between conservation group Wildlife Alliance, the Apsara Authority and the Forestry Administration Gibbons were once native to the area but were hunted to eradication over the last few decades The reintroduction of the animals marks the start of a project that hopes to reestablish communities of wildlife that were once indigenous to Angkor

Lovers of British comedy will no

doubt be familiar with the flawed

character of Alan Partridge

Created by comedian Steve

Coogan, Alan is a narcissistic

and socially incompetent

radio-DJ-slash-TV-presenter

hailing from the British county of

Norfolk The hilarious

feature-length movie Alpha Papa,

released last year, finds Alan with

a slot at North Norfolk Digital, a

radio station that has just been

taken over by a trendy media

conglomerate called Shape

As jobs are axed, a bizarre

police siege develops, perhaps

offering a chance of salvation for

Partridge’s lacklustre career.

Listen: Memory from Darkness

Try: Flyboarding

PICKS OF THE MONTH

Visit: Bighistoryproject.com

Big history is an emerging academic discipline that explains

the scientific origin of the universe from its beginnings 13.7

billion years ago To make this massive timeline a little more

digestible, leading scientists and scholars have created

bighistoryproject.com The site condenses the history of the

universe and presents it as lessons designed for high school

students Short episodes map out how simple things, such

as salt, significantly influenced the evolution of the first land

animals, and in turn humankind

Watch: Alpha Papa

This 25-minute classical work for piano, cello and violin reflects

on the experiences of the prisoners, workers and farmers that Him Sophy met during the Khmer Rouge years “Life was a nightmare,” says the Cambodian composer "The memories were dark; fear became a deadly companion both day and night." Though first penned in 1990, the piece made its world debut last July when performed by the New York New Music Ensemble A CD of the haunting, yet at times uplifting, tracks will

be available to buy from Cambodia Living Arts and Monument Books this month for $12.

Download: Sleep Time

Ever been awoken by your alarm clock, only to feel like you’ve been raised from the dead? Sleep Time may be able to help The app tracks and graphs sleep cycles — identifying when you are in deep and light sleep through your movements The morning alarm, which you set with a 30-minute time window, will identify when you are in a light sleep before going off, ensuring that you have a bright and breezy start to the day

The sunshine paradise of Otres

beach in Sihanoukville has a new

activity to tempt the masses —

besides its yellow sands, delicious

seafood and gently lapping

waves Flyboarding involves

strapping yourself to

high-powered water-jets that

will, in theory, propel users

up to nine-metres into

the air and above the

waves like an aqua

Demining Rats

Memorandum of Understanding signed to test out rats

trained to sniff for buried ordnance.

Tony Hawk

Superstar inspires Cambodia’s boarders on recent trip to the Kingdom.

Intellectual Property Rights

Newly launched Motion Picture Association of Cambodia set

to take on pirated DVDs in Phnom Penh.

Import Prices

Government crackdown on customs corruption could lead to

price hikes for imported goods.

Auld Lang Syne

We all sang it at New Year, but who knows the words?

Chinese Barbecues

Beijing destroys more than 500 open-air barbecues in an

ongoing war against air pollution.

then voluntarily returns.

World’s Ugliest Dog

R.I.P Elwood, a Chinese-crested Chihuahua mix who had the dubious accolade of being the planet’s worst looking dog before his death aged eight.

Imagination is key for standing out in the capital’s competitive hotel industry, and it is something Teav Boutique Hotel has got down to a tee Pitching itself as a modern art hotel, the venue screams urban chic with

a smooth mix of grey, black and white stone Simple drawings depicting scenes from the Angkor period, including the traditional tragic love story of Tum Teav, adorn the walls, with each of the 12 rooms decorated with the designs The luxurious rooms (from $80 to $200 a night) come complete with huge bathrooms containing a deep stone bath, a power shower and balconies overlooking the pool The hotel also has a conference room and office space.

14 Street 310, Phnom Penh Tel 017 989 191.

The idyllic Spring Valley resort in Kep has opened a new restaurant, which is taking a fresh look at traditional Cambodian cuisine The menu features street food-style lunches and set multi-course menus as night, with dishes such as Kep crab with peppercorns (plucked from Mr Mab’s micro-plantation) and delicious duck curry served up With the promise

of jackfruit rum smoothies, Mekong martinis and cool jazz, it’s bound to

be an exciting new edition to Kep’s rapidly evolving dining scene

Spring Valley Resort, Phum Thmey, Khum Prey Thom, Kep Tel: 036 666

6673 Email: mr.mab@springvalley-resort.com

Offering an oasis of tropical calm, La Librairie hotel and restaurant

is the perfect place to unwind The décor is a simple but elegant

fusion of Chinese, Vietnamese and French, with a splash of Khmer

thrown in Exposed brickwork combined with terracotta tiles gives

the hotel a modern feel The 20 rooms (from $45 to $90 per night)

ooze contemporary cool, with black four-poster beds sitting alongside

classical whites and wooden floors An impressive staircase stretches

up three floors to an airy skylight, and dangling lanterns cast a soft light

in the evening The first floor is home to a small library where guests are

invited to exchange books On the ground floor, a lengthy swimming

pool sits next to a restaurant serving up Asian and Western food, which

is also open to outside visitors.

22 Street 184, Phnom Penh Tel 023 221 812

DESIGN EMPORIUM CRASH TEST DUMMIES

Phnom Penh’s cool crew has got a new place to dress up thanks to

Crash Test Dummies The latest venture from The Dollhouse team offers

designers a space to showcase their work The quirky store sits above

Mumoo’s on hip Street 240½ and contains an eclectic mix of men’s and

women’s clothes, shoes, jewellery and accessories from 14 designers

The collections offer cute dresses, casual daywear, denim from Javo’s

Vintage Jeans, evening gowns and vintage-inspired jewellery Menswear

takes in a range of printed t-shirts, jackets and trousers, with sister

company Paperdolls adding its Paperboys collection to the rails Owner

Ryan Drewe Taylor says: “There is a lot of talent out there, so we

wanted to offer them a platform.”

Street 240½ Open Tuesday to Sunday from 8.30am to 6.30pm.

From shrimp to squid, string-ray, crabs, oysters and clams, Island

Soup and Grill Seafood is embracing all the sea has to offer Set on

Street 184, the cozy restaurant is crisp and clean, featuring classy

wooden tables and cheerful striped walls Beers cost from $1 and

glasses of house wine from $2.75, but it’s the seafood that takes

centre stage Try the special squid soup ($7) or, for non sea-lovers,

the phnom plerng (volcano mountain) grill with beef for $5.50 New

customers in January will recieve a loyalty card, valid until June,

entitling them to a 10 percent discount on future visits.

36E Street 184, Phnom Penh Tel: 012 480 077 Open from 11am

to 9.30pm

If you’re after funky household goods, then DisPlay will satisfy your needs The shop sells a range of interior items — all hand-selected or created by co-owners Alain Tang, Coralie Chea and Pascal Koy Light fills the spacious shop, which is painted in white A rainbow of towels, cushions and quirky storage boxes add splashes of colour, while carefully crafted furniture, including unique stools made from crates, add a touch of sophistication Other items include super-soft pillows and Snack Bar coasters that smell of chocolate and cheese “We like

to mix classic with modern with our designs and choose items that look really designer at affordable prices,” says interior architect Tang.

178 Street 63, Phnom Penh Open daily from 10am to 9pm

Travel news from around the region and beyond

An Indie Paradise

The crystalline pop of Glaswegian trio Chvrches, the

psychedelic riffs of New Zealand’s Unknown Mortal

Orchestra, and the new-wave beats of Singapore’s

Vandetta are just some of the rising indie acts to

discover at St Jerome’s Laneway Festival in Singapore

on Jan 25 Organisers of the festival, which is marking

its 10th year, have curated a sweet lineup of 18 new and

seminal artists that will grace the stage at The Meadow

in Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay, the country’s

outdoor urban garden and events venue Tickets are

$150 and can be bought at singapore.lanewayfestival.

com/buy-tickets.

Got Rice?

Sydney’s Tropfest, the world’s largest short film festival,

extends to Southeast Asia for the first time on Jan 24 and

Jan 25 Tropfest Southeast Asia, hosted in Malaysia, will

feature shortlisted films from 11 regional countries including

Brunei, East Timor and Myanmar Each film submission

can be no longer than seven minutes and must incorporate

a loose interpretation of the Tropfest signature item or

concept, with this year’s being the word ‘rice’ Tropfest,

which is open to the public, has been running for 21 years

in Australia and has satellite festivals in the US, the Middle

East, Paris and more Visit tropfest.com

Winter is Coming

For half a month, more than 15,000 workers carve four million cubic feet of ice for the Harbin International Ice and Snow Culture Festival The festival runs from Jan 5 to Feb

28 in Harbin, China’s northernmost city This temporary ice metropolis includes four ice parks and amusement zones, containing 1,000 sculptures made from ice carved out of the Songhua River Guests can marvel at the ice architecture and enjoy festivities, including an ice lantern show, a sculpture competition, alpine skiing, dog-sledding, Siberian tiger watching, a carnival and a fireworks display Check out tours and pricing at icefestivalharbin.com

17 19

JAN

Billy Page from the UK and Adelisa Concepcion from

The Philippines kick-start New Year's at Equinox on

Street 278

Cine Saturdays at the Bophana Centre on Street 200

from 4pm Enslaved tells the story of real people affected

by human trafficking in Cambodia, while Butterfly (Korean

with English sub-titles) explores the journey of six-year-old

Jin Young after he is sold into a child trafficking ring.

Core by artist Ben

Thynal runs until Jan

19 at Romeet Gallery

on Street 178 The

show explores ideas

around the individual

and the community in

Cambodian society

Ben plays with the

eye through optical

by a group exhibition curated by photographer

Sovan Philong Events include Moto Moto, a physical

theatre performance raising awareness of the dangers of motorbike driving in Cambodia at 4pm on Jan 18, a village festival in the White Building from 5.30pm to 8.30pm on Jan 18, and an artist parade

of Cambodia Living Arts musicians on “yarn-stormed” cyclos at 4pm on Jan 19 Visit ourcityfestival.org for more venue information.

Building a Sustainable Future - Kouk Khleang Youth Centre (KKYC) exhibition and presentation from 6pm

to 8pm at Meta House The show aims to promote sustainable building practices and materials by presenting the design and construction process Komitu Architects will facilitate a free tour of ecological architecture of the sites on Jan 25 from 9am to 3pm, leaving from Meta House.

CALENDAR PHNOM PENH

Have an event coming up?

Send information and dates to

ellie@asialife.asia

Jorng Jam

exhibition opening and artist talks at the Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre

on Street

200 from 3pm to 6pm, running until Feb 8 The show brings together artists and members of the community to reclaim, reinvent and remember family photographs and stories from Cambodia’s past.

On the Streets exhibition at Java Café from 6pm to

9pm Inspired by vendor cultures in Southeast Asia, this exhibition is a comparative look at the effects of globalisation on public communities worldwide.

JAN

25

MobileCamp Asia runs at the Institute of Technology

of Cambodia, Phnom Penh, from 8am to 5.30pm

The mobile app-themed edition of tech conference

BarCamp aims to bring together mobile enthusiasts,

explorers, developers and professionals to share

their visions for the future of mobility in the region

For more information, visit mobilecamp.asia.

The Last Refuge screens at the Bophana Centre

from 4pm The film follows the Bunong in Eastern

Cambodia as they confront land issues and forest

of his friends and family.

book launch and opening exhibition

at Sa Sa Bassac Gallery from 6pm to 8.30pm The show includes a 90-minute screening featuring 12 videos and documents by nine artists.

-EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm • Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh

Sweat and Samadhi at 8am, YogAbs/YogButt at 12.15pm and

Beginner's Flow at 5.45pm See yogaphnompenh.com

EVERY TUESDAY

Swing dancing at Doors with lindy-hop specialist Janice Wilson from

7pm Classes are $3 or $25 for 10 lessons • Beginner salsa lessons

at The Groove on Street 282 from 8pm to 9pm, $5 per person • Latino

Time at Cabaret on Street 154 at 6.30pm

EVERY WEDNESDAY

Latin Fever at The Latin Quarter • Trivia in the garden at The Willow,

$2 entry and 7.30pm start • Salsa with DJ Jimmy at Equinox on

Street 278 • Acoustic music at Kep’s Sailing Club by guitarist Mr Rya

from 6pm to 9pm

EVERY THURSDAY

Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Sports Bar • Art House Sessions at

8.30pm at The Flicks Community Movie House Enjoy the secret

trea-sures of the big screen for $3.50 • Steak Night at The Empire Weekly

special at a big discount • Women’s Night at The Riverhouse • Movie

nights on the beach at Kep’s Sailing Club from 7pm • All About Jazz at

Cabaret from 7pm, wine and beer happy hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm.

EVERY FRIDAY

Special happy hatha yoga classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, 5.45pm

discounted happy hour class • Seafood Haven at Korean Grill

restaurant, NagaWorld, from 5.30pm to 10pm $20 per person

excluding beer, $30 per person including free flow draft beer Tel: 023 22

88 22, www.nagaworld.com • Rhymn sessions at Doors from 9.30pm •

Intermediate salsa lessons ($12) and a dance party at The Latin Quarter

on Street 19 from 8.30pm.

EVERY SATURDAY

Cine Saturday at the Bophana Center, 64 Street 200, at 4pm • Art

classes for both children and adults at Romeet Gallery on Street 178,

costing $8.50 per session or $65 for 10 All material is provsided

Register interest with Sreymao at romeetgallery@gmail.com or by

calling 077 55 07 59

EVERY SUNDAY

Escape at the InterContinental hotel’s Regency Café from 11.30am

to 3pm Free-flow wine at $36 plus taxes per person • Morning

meditation with Beth Goldring, a zen Buddhist nun teacher Sessions

held in a private home close to the national museum, all religions

welcome yogaphnompenh.com • Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’

run Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station

EVERY DAY

Yoga classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, close to BKK market For

information visit yogaphnompenh.com or enquire at 012 739 419 •

Daily four-hour photography tours with Michael Klinkhamer Starts at

FCC, 363 Sisowath Quay, at 1.30pm $35 per person (for groups of less

than four people add $10pp) Call 060 873 847 or visit klinkphoto.com

EVERY WEEKDAY

High tea at Public House on Street 204½, 3pm to 5.30pm Scones,

finger sandwiches, sweets and tea $9pp for high tea, $14 with a glass

of sparkling wine, $30pp with a bottle, $50 with a bottle of champagne

Book for a min of two guests at least one day in advance 017 770 754

EVERY MONDAY TO SATURDAY

Cultural performance at the National Museum at 7pm Adult tickets

are $15, with discounts for advance puchases For booking and

information call 017 998 570 or email events@cambodianlivingarts.org

EVERY WEEKEND

Fishing trips on the Tonle Sap river from 3.30pm to 6.30pm For

more information, visit fishinginphnompenh.wordpress.com or

email fishingboattrip@yahoo.com • Kids Sessions at 2pm at The

Flicks Community Movie House $3.50 for adults, $2 for under 18

• Weekend brunch at Public House on Street 240½, from 10.30am to

2pm $25 per person including bellinis or bloody Marys, $15 per person

if you’re on the wagon Book in advance: 017 770 754

PHOTO ESSAY

Solomon Smiles

The 900 isles of the Solomons, east of Papua New Guinea, make up one of the least explored island groups

on the planet Writer and photographer Tom Perry lived

in the Solomon Islands for three years and recently

published SOLO: Life in the Solomon Islands, looking at

contemporary life across the country

Visit tomperry.com.au for more information.

K a n g R i t h i s a l

Amrita Performing Arts celebrated its 10-year anniversary late last year The dance and theatre company’s newly appointed executive director, Kang Rithisal, plays a key role in ensuring that contemporary artists take centre stage Interview

Why was Amrita founded?

Amrita was created to help

the revival and preservation of

Cambodian cultural performing

arts Amrita is a Sanskrit word

which means eternity, so there

was an intention of trying to

say the arts should continue,

should always be perpetual

Officially in 2011, we shifted to

being committed to the creation

of contemporary dance and

theatre Our vision is nurturing

a young generation of artists,

who are ushering their ancient

performing arts heritage from

the past into the future

What do you mean by

contemporary dance?

We have 15 young artists, aged

20 to 30, who are all classically

trained in Cambodian dance

Because they are classically

trained, the contemporary

dance of Cambodia is not

something that’s inspired by

the Western ballet form, or

K-pop, or whatever These

are people who were born in

the art, in the classical form,

and they are encountering

international artists who

bring new experiences, new

techniques, or new thought in

dance These artists get inspired

by it, and choose to express

their own story or movement

from that

Has this been controversial?

People are still thinking about

the revival and preservation of

dance 34 years after the Khmer

Rouge They fear that further

development of the form will

pose a kind of potential threat, or destruction, to the classical form

Keeping an art form stagnant

is not a good thing The classical form is actually the inspirational base for younger artists to have courage to create new things Without it, tapping into the new thing would not be possible We have to carefully nurture the process

so their dance development

is good — it’s Cambodian

Maintaining that balance is like walking on a tightrope.

What do contemporary performances mean for Cambodia?

Having this contemporary dance that the artists choose

to express in their art, and that corresponds to the social and political context that they’re in now, is very new

Five years ago, if you were doing something like this,

it was not received in the way it is received now The economic and technological developments mean Cambodians have access to the world People’s minds are broadened a bit more, and that really contributes to the change in their perspective I see that has happened and will continue to happen

How would you describe the local arts scene?

I say the Cambodian arts scene

is like a garden If it’s only one particular flower, then that garden, you know, it’s beautiful but it’s not so interesting I

like the fact that there are artists who really work on the classical form, artists who really explore creativity in the classical form, and artists who are making the artistic choice

To answer, I would be easily attracted to the big shows

we have done — like Where

Elephants Weep , the first bodian rock opera However, recently in Singapore we had one of our artists receiving questions from the audience

Cam-With amazing confidence, he grabbed the microphone and explained the classical form and how they moved into cre- ating this work, with no sense

of fear, representing dia And now I’ve decided that that’s actually the remarkable achievement we have made

Cambo-We have produced numerous productions, but now we have these young artists who will

be potential young leaders in the cultural scene And seeing them flourishing is actually, I believe, the biggest achieve- ment of Amrita.

What is the significance of a decade completed and your new leadership?

I would call it a new phase of Amrita I’ve been with this

organisation for 10 years I am part of the Amrita family I believe in what we are doing Now, after years of momentum working with international collaborators, we have the courage to say that we are building choreographers for contemporary dance, and I am nurturing this as the new leader because I am a Cambodian So I have this advantage of having a dialogue with my artists [and] choreographers

Our dancers and staff see this as a remarkable moment for them The mission has gone deeper into their blood They feel the responsibility that they have as the young generation of Cambodians, and that includes myself Together

we look forward with great anticipation to the next 10 years and beyond

What’s the future for Amrita?

In the short term, Amrita

is going to further its artist development in terms of their choreographic and artistic de- velopment In the long term we are becoming an internationally

or regionally recognised dance company from Cambodia, showcasing the work of Cam- bodia, by Cambodians.

We are making this new generation of leaders And they are contributing back to their own art community and making their rightful place locally and

in the international arena.

For more information, visit amritaperformingarts.org.

NEW YEAR NEW START

Want to shake up your life for 2014, but don’t know how? AsiaLIFE has the answer, with five pages of practical tips to help keep New Year’s resolutions on track

Words by Ellie Dyer, Marissa

Carruthers and Joanna Mayhew

Photographs by Conor Wall.

Play ul timate Frisbee

phnompenhul timate.c

om

Scale a w all

kidscity asia.com

Getting fit: It’s that nagging resolution

that always turns out to be as fleeting

as Cambodia’s cool season Luckily, the

country has numerous opportunities to trick

your body into shape without your social life

missing a beat

For a start, try learning the ropes at

Kid’s City The multi-coloured building on

Sihanouk Boulevard, opened last year, offers

the first indoor climbing in the capital Don’t

let the name deceive you The 10-metre-high

walls — including rotating holds and timed

climbs — will challenge adults’ strength and

flexibility week to week The centre also

boasts ice-skating and laser tag, with all

activities two-for-one on Mondays.

For a more local experience, check

out Olympic Stadium for sunset aerobics

classes At least 10 groups, spread across

the rim of the stadium, exercise to a

variety of tunes and charge just 1,000 riel

per workout The sprawling complex also

offers tennis courts for rent ($3 per hour)

and a 50-metre swimming pool with diving

platforms ($1.50 for foreigners)

Setting exercise goals is key, and

Cambodia is now home to several races

to train for Run near the beaches in May’s

Sihanoukville Half-Marathon or tour the

temples with December’s Angkor Wat

International Half-Marathon Siem Reap’s

inaugural full marathon is also set to take

place in August In Phnom Penh, take

advantage of the 14 races listed on the

Running in Cambodia website, or train for April’s Mekong River Swim

You don’t have to go

it alone Tri-Cambodia organises regular swims, runs and bike rides, the Phnom Penh Hash arranges runs and walks every Sunday ($5 for foreigners), while the Phnom Penh Runners host long runs on Sunday mornings

For cyclists, the Phnom Penh Bike Hash rides through the countryside once a month ($12 per a trip) For more leisurely rides, rent a pushbike for as little as $1 at travel agencies on Street 278.

Team sports are also a great way

to expand social circles and stay in shape, and here you’re spoiled for choice Co-ed netball is on tap every Monday at Hope International School, ultimate frisbee takes place three times a week at various locations, and the Cambodian Eagles Australian Rules Football offer annual memberships ($50) with training twice a week

With fitness options for every day of the week, your FOMO (fear of missing out) will stay in check despite the inevitable bar invites And your body will thank you for finally checking the peskiest resolution of all off the list.

WAYS TO GET FIT

Learn a new skill

2014 the year to get the creative juices flowing.

January is the perfect month to start thinking outside of the metaphorical box, thanks to the Our City Festival, which is set to take over Phnom Penh from the 17th to the 26th Events include a village festival at the White Building on Sothearos Boulevard on Jan 18, with sunset performances on the iconic structure's roof

If you’re inspired to pick up a paintbrush, a dizzying range of paper and art materials can be found

at stationary stores like the IBC and independent retailers — a good one

is located on Street 19 near the Royal University of Fine Arts But if you’re hesitant to go it alone, there are also plenty of group lessons to help spark your inner van Gogh.

Sao Sreymao teaches art classes

at Romeet Gallery on Street 178 every Saturday, with children’s sessions starting at 11.30am and adults at 2.30pm Each lesson focuses on a different artistic technique, from still

life and portraiture to illustration and watercolour All materials are provided Phnom Penh Community College is another good stop-off The college, on the corner of Street 294 and Street 63, hosts accessible classes where pupils can learn a range of new skills Sessions provisionally booked in for January include a double photography workshop and a wine-tasting course, with mid-week art lessons also in the works.

If craft is your passion, Stitch ‘n’ Bitch is a thriving group that holds informal gatherings for knitters, crochet enthusiasts and embroiderers Attendees normally bring supplies along, but free knitting lessons and materials are being provided on Jan 7 and 16 at Java Café from 6.30pm as the group works on knitting cyclo covers as part of a "yarn- storming" project for the Our City Festival For amateur dramatics, join The Phnom Penh Players — a well-established group that puts on an annual pantomime among other performances And, with the beauty

of Cambodia at your doorstep, why not make the most of your camera skills? Nathan Horton runs weekend workshops for all ability levels, which include practical lessons and field trips to locations such

as Silk Island and Kampong Chhnang Photographer Michael Klinkhamer also runs daily four-hour tours and workshops starting from the FCC.

THINGS TO TR

Y

TIPS FOR BEL

Eat on the s

treet

Cutting down on living costs can free

up much-needed income, but slim-lining

a monthly budget is often easier said

than done

Using technology to do some of the

hard work for you, by keeping track of

outgoings via your phone, is a good

first step Free apps like GoodBudget

enable users to divide up a monthly

income into categories — like food,

travel, savings and accommodation —

and then track payments to ensure

pre-set budgets are met.

Making the most out of the capital’s

wealth of bargains and free attractions

can also help Why not peruse the city’s

multitude of free art galleries, take the

family on a walk around the Grecian

monuments of Diamond Island, or use

your legs as transport with a dusk

stroll along the riverside (the free gym

equipment is an added bonus for

your waistline).

If you can’t cut out consumer spending

or need to source household essentials,

then shop sensibly Local markets are a

great start, as are the wave of 2,500 riel

shops that have spawned in the capital

over the last six months.

Second-hand shops, especially those

offering Japanese goods, are also a good

source of cheap yet classy crockery Thrift

store Toto on Street 47 is a treasure trove

of unexpected items, including household

goods, furniture, clothes, bags and shoes

Buying indulgent items at canny times can also benefit your wallet Many bakeries, including the Cambodiana hotel (from 5pm to 8pm) and Kirya coffee (after 5.30pm), offer a range of goods at half price late

in the day

For fashion addicts, hand clothing can be found at BKK market; or shop vintage at Color

second-on Street 13 or Lost 'n' Found Vintage on Street 63 With expats constantly leaving Cambodia, and their belongings, behind, try holding a clothes swap Get a group of friends to bring any surplus or abandoned wares to

a central point, and pick out your favourites for free.

Facebook groups like Phnom Penh Buy and Sell often feature cut-price kitchen items being sold by departing foreigners And, while we’re in the kitchen, cutting down on food costs doesn’t mean taking a hit

on taste Street food is cheap and

tasty Try our favourites, grou-aj anng

(grilled quail) for around 4,000 riel a

pop, or a bowl of sweet plai ai cake

balls for about 1,000 riel

$ave $ave

$ave

!!!

Living or working in the Kingdom doesn’t necessarily come hand-in-hand with expansive knowledge of the country So, if you’re not local, why not make it your New Year’s resolution to delve deeper into what Cambodia has to offer?

Getting off the beaten track is

an excellent way to experience the Kingdom’s diversity With an abundance of eco-tourism trips springing up across Cambodia, you can also help protect its natural resources while having fun

The village of Chi Phat, in the Western province of Koh Kong, provides a gateway into the Cardamom Mountains, with a large waterfall and historic burial jars hidden on rocky crags nearby Homestays can cost from as little as $3 a night, with eco-lodge options from $13 to $20 per night.

To Cambodia’s east, the sleepy town

of Kratie is not only home to freshwater dolphins but also the rare Cantor’s Soft-shell Turtle The Mekong Turtle Conservation Centre (free entry) is set in the grounds of an impressive 480-year- old pagoda and runs a fascinating breeding project.

For those who think they already know

the country inside out, why not learn how

to survive in the wild? Former French Foreign Legion soldier David Minetti, who spent five years training in the depths of the South American jungle, runs K1 Cambodian Jungle Trekking, which specialises in tailor- made trips that teach survival techniques and take avid adventurers deep into the Sre Ambel jungle

For a child-friendly taste of the wild, try Phnom Tamao Zoo, about 40km outside

of Phnom Penh, where visitors can walk among enclosures full of deer and get up close to sun and moon bears at the on- site sanctuary.

And if nature doesn’t appeal, educate yourself from the comfort of a seat Both the Bophana Audio Visual Resource Centre on Street 200 and Meta House

on Sothearos Boulevard regularly screen Cambodia-centric documentaries and films Sports fans can spend a free afternoon watching kick-boxing live at the CTN arena, near Japanese Bridge From 2pm,

a string of fighters take to the ring, but be warned it gets hot ringside Or perhaps get

in on the action yourself by trying out the ancient martial art of Yutakhun Khom at the Selapak school of Khmer arts on Street

110, where pupils can also learn the ful art of Apsara dancing.

Chill Out

More

The chaos of Cambodian life can leave

your chakra off-balance and, with

relaxation essential to leading a healthy

and balanced life, New Year is a perfect

time to recharge those batteries

Get started at Wat Langka on Street 51

The temple offers free one-hour Buddhist

meditation sessions on Mondays,

Thursdays and Saturdays at 6pm, though

donations are welcome

If an hour of silence and focusing on

your breathing is too much, spend an

afternoon poolside — and don’t feel

guilty, you’re allowed to take time out For

$7 worth food and drink purchases, you

can spend the day around Patio Hotel’s

infinity pool, which features stunning

views of Phnom Penh

Sometimes, life in the smoke can get

too much, so try heading out of town Get

a beachside massage by the calm waters

of Rabbit Island off Kep, lounge by the

river in Kampot, or head to the thriving

arts community of Cambodia’s “rice bowl”

of Battambang

Alternatively, laze the day away in a

hammock at one of the many bars that

line the Mekong about 10km outside

of the capital on National Route Six,

or spend a day messing about on the

Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers Phnom

Penh Fishing Tours ($15 including dinner and drinks) visits some of the best spots to land a prize catch, with a fish cooked

up with pepper sauce and sour mango at the end of the day

Leaving the hustle and bustle of city life can be as easy as jumping in a tuk-tuk over Japanese Bridge and getting on the small ferry to Koh Dach, which sits about 15km from the city centre The island

is the perfect place to enjoy

a peaceful picnic, explore the paddy fields and be serenaded by the gentle clack of the community’s silk looms.

But taking time out doesn’t have

to mean peace and quiet Beefing up your social circle is a sure fire way to get the serotonin levels flowing With

a string of networking events taking place across the city monthly, there’s no shortage of places to find new friends Try the monthly Tapas Fever night at Doors

on Street 47, with free flow tapas and selected wine from 7pm to 9pm ($20

A sea of gleaming Harley

Davidsons and Hondas cruise

along National Road 3; the

deafening roar of powerful

engines ensuring that the

hard-ened bikers don’t go unnoticed

Wearing red bandanas, kitted

out in leather, and all sitting

astride giant gleaming metal

machines, it’s easy to conjure

up images of Hells Angels

But smashing stereotypes is

something that the Cambodia

Biker Club (CBC) has perfected

since its launch two years ago

Contrary to the tales of

criminal biker gangs that

often appear in the media,

this group of more than 100

local motorbike enthusiasts

is on a mission to promote

road safety, while raising the

profile of Cambodia’s biking

opportunities across the region

“As more bikers come to

Cambodia, it is ever-more

important that people take

care on the roads,” says CBC’s

president Khor Woh Hock

“You must know the culture

of driving in Cambodia to stay

safe A lot of people when they ride into here are shocked with the way people drive.”

Road Safety

Sadly, fatalities and accidents

on Cambodia’s roads are rife

A 2012 study by Handicap International Belgium revealed that a staggering five people die each day on the country’s roads, with a further 40 suffering injuries Motorbike riders accounted for 70 percent of total fatalities, with the majority suffering from head injuries.

Stepping off his brand new 1300cc Honda Fury, CBC member and avid motorbike fan Fredrik Carlsward remembers two recent serious crashes involving careless drivers and fellow members

“There’s a saying that loud pipes save lives, as in people can hear us coming,” he adds

“I say loud pipes and wearing a helmet saves lives.”

The message is becoming even more key as Cambodia cements its reputation as a

bikers’ destination in Southeast Asia More riders than ever are crossing the border to cruise past paddy fields, forests and coastline on the Kingdom’s winding roads, with multiple parties working together to encourage the trend.

CBC is currently linking up with the Ministry of Tourism to try and attract more bikers into the Kingdom where, despite some roads needing major work, relaxed borders offer few restrictions and visas are easy

to attain

“If you’ve got all of your documents then you can pretty much just ride straight into Cambodia,” Hock explains Clubs from Vietnam and Thailand often head to Cambodia for road trips, with Sihanoukville and Siem Reap being the most popular destinations

Taking Precautions

But riding in the provinces presents a new set of problems for bikers “Here, there are no

rules If you see another vehicle less than 30 seconds away from you, then be aware It might suddenly U-turn or cross the road, and that’s when accidents happen,” Hock warns.

This scenario led to Hock’s friend being airlifted to Bangkok two years ago, after he swerved

“You have

to be really careful, but remember cows will go left or right and buffaloes

straight.”

to avoid a car that suddenly

crossed the road Another

vehicle smashed into him,

causing life-threatening injuries

Being constantly alert is

essential on the country’s

“chaotic” roads, Carlsward says

Wearing a helmet and specialist

clothing, such as a jacket with

elbow, shoulder and spine

protection, is also vital, and a

measure that CBC advises its

members to invest in

With many Cambodian

safety helmets offering little

protection, Hock recommends

buying a quality helmet from

Thailand or Malaysia, which

are also better quality than

those from Vietnam and China

Helmets complying with

European, Australian and

United States standards can be

found in Phnom Penh but are

expensive But when buying a

helmet, Hock adds it is vital not

to sacrifice quality for cost

Insurance is another

essential that many expats

ignore CBC recommends

taking out motorbike

insurance from Forte Insurance or Lonpac, as well as investing in health insurance that includes medical evacuation to either Bangkok or Singapore

And, on top of other motorists, there are some natural threats to be aware

of, such as cattle roaming the roads “You have to be really careful, but remember cows will go left or right and buffaloes straight,” Hock says.

“See we’re not gangsters who are here to mark our territory,”

adds the Malaysian, mounting his shining Harley Davidson Road King “We’re here to educate the community and enjoy our biking experience, because there’s no better way to explore Cambodia than on the back of a bike.”

CBC holds weekly short rides and regular long rides for its members along with charity events, including the annual Phnom Penh Bikers’ Week For more information on the club, visit cambodiabikerclub.org

Exploring Cambodia on the back of a motorbike can be one of life’s great joys

Marissa Carruthers asks the Kingdom’s biking community for advice on the

best ways to stay safe on the roads Photography by Conor Wall

Safe Ride

Safe Life

Best rides National Road 3 runs to Kep and Kampot and is

a popular ride that contains great scenery from Kampot to Bokor Mountain, and also Kep beach

It’s CBC’s favourite route, as it has less traffic than National Road 4.

National Road 4, running from Phnom Penh to noukville via Kampong Speu province, is popular, but can be busy with buses, lorries and other traffic Tak- ing National Road 3 to Veal Renh before cutting onto Route 4 for the final stretch to Sihanoukville means riders can take advantage of lighter road conditions National Route 1, which connects the capital with Svay Rieng province bordering Vietnam, is another recommended route Hock describes it as “smooth” and recommends the Neak Leung ferry, which carries traffic across the Mekong

Siha-A Child's eye View

Remember what the world seemed like as a child, when everything appeared bigger, better and somehow more exciting? It’s that sense of youthful wonder that these images portray

All were taken late last year

by youngsters aged between 11 and 16 as part of a nationwide photography project launched

by property development group Hongkong Land in partnership with Cambodia’s Acleda bank and camera company Nikon

Thirty schools across the country were given a digital camera, and their students challenged to submit images

of their lives in categories including art and dance, education, family, nature and rural life

Of the 4,000 entries, subject matter varied from scenes

of farming, fishing and fruit picking, to family meals,

karaoke nights and village celebrations, as well as some pure childhood activities such

as skipping and hopscotch

“We have been delighted and, quite honestly, surprised

by the quality of the photos

by the children,” says Daniel Parkes, general manager for Hongkong Land’s Landmark and Ounalom sites in Phnom Penh “I have personally been very impressed by the entries from Ratanakiri, Anlong Veng and Preah Vihear.“

Eight winning entries are due

to be displayed on billboards near Wat Ounalom, on Phnom Penh’s riverside, later this month The triumphant young photographers are due to be taken to the capital to see their work on display and receive photographic training from Nikon The winning schools will receive books, pens and educational materials.

Words by Ellie Dyer

Man Feeding Elderly Woman by Kheav Phangoun from Stung Treng

Boy In Field by Chan Tonida from Svey Rieng

In those magic evening hours

when the sky turns blush,

amateur pétanque players can

be found tossing steel balls in

the shadows of Phnom Penh’s

Olympic Stadium

The rules are simple: teams

of three players throw large

metal balls in an attempt to

reach a smaller ball, called a

cochonnet, at the far end of a

dirt pit The team whose ball

is closest wins points, and the

first team to 13 is victorious

Even if it sounds

compli-cated, the fact that many locals

know the rules is testament to

the Kingdom’s French colonial

past, and experts say the sport

is increasingly gaining traction

in modern-day Cambodia.

“There are definitely more

competitions organised, and

Cambodians are good at it,”

says Soreaksmey Ke Bin,

co-founder of Avanti — the

sole distributor of the French

pétanque ball brand Obut

in Cambodia “There are

now lawns in Siem Reap,

Sihanoukville and Kep, for

example And wealthy

Cambo-dians might have some in their

own homes.”

A Historic Sport

Pétanque can trace its origins back to the Roman Empire, but its current format was created

in Provence, Southern France,

in 1907 A game called jeu

provençal was adapted to allow

players to throw balls, or boules,

from a stationary position

This is reflected in the name pétanque — derived from the phrase for “feet anchored” in the local Occitan dialect.

The game went professional

in Cambodia in 1992, when the Fédération de Boules et

de Pétanque du Cambodge (FBPC) was created As of mid- December 2013, Cambodia was ranked third in the world behind Thailand and France, according to a list published

by the International Federation

of Pétanque and Jeu Provençal.

Last year, Cambodia won one gold, one silver and three bronze medals at the 17th Asian Pétanque Champion- ships in Bali, Indonesia, as well

as medaling at the Southeast Asia games in Naypyidaw, Myanmar

This year will mark another landmark event for the sport

with the first French Pétanque Tournament set to take place at Olympic Stadium on Jan 18

Cambodian-“It is apparently the first time French and Cambodi- ans will play together on the lawns,” says expat Emmanuel Scheffer, who is co-organising the matches with online fran-

cophone publication Le Petit

Journal and the FBPC

French purists may say that Cambodia has adapted the rules — locals play with three balls instead of six, and the dis- tance between the smaller ball and the players is sometimes not the same — but the game is

also about joie de vivre

“Everyone is very excited and will play in a friendly atmosphere,” Scheffer adds, explaining that each team will comprise of a member of the Cambodian national squad and two French players

Elite Connection

And although the sport is becoming more popular in the Kingdom, it still has an elite touch Generals and minis- ters alike tread upon the few

pétanque pitches of the capital and the Deputy Prime Minister

of Cambodia, Sok An, is dent of the federation.

presi-“Most of my clients are very rich people, or they come from the national team,” explains Phat Panha Socheat, owner Sambo Sport shop in Phnom Penh, a wholesaler of Obut pétanque balls.

But change is on its way In

2013, some schools in Phnom Penh started initiation classes

in order to promote the sport at

a young age

“More and more people are buying this game, and I also have more requests coming from the provinces as well But this is not yet a big market

in Cambodia,” says Socheat, adding that it remains “a very serious” sport.

It’s an opinion that is no doubt shared by Cambodian trainer Em Heang, whose team will have to train hard for the upcoming 2014 Pétanque World Championship in Tahiti This time, Cambodia could claim a medal among the 48 countries set to be represented

at the games

With Cambodia known as the Kingdom of Wonders, journalist Clothilde

Le Coz finds that the traditional French game of pétanque makes the list

Photography by Charles Fox.

Khmer

STEEL

Looking over the mountainous

valley I felt the ground sway

below me The long train ride

from Hanoi to Lao Cai had

been followed by a bumpy

90-minute drive to our

accommodation and I was

having trouble convincing my

body it was no longer moving

Located 45 minutes from

the mountain town of Sapa,

Topas Eco-lodge is perched

on a hill jutting out into the

valley With sweeping views

of steep mountains, deep

valleys and lush rice fields,

the location alone makes the

lodge undeniably worth the

journey Having caught the

night train, my husband and

I had arrived in the early

morning, ready to enjoy the

cool mountain air, experience

a new part of Vietnam, and

conquer Fansipan, the highest

mountain in Indochina The mountain, which rises out of the Hoang Lien Son mountain range in Northwest Vietnam, has been coined the “roof of Indochina” At 3,143 metres,

it was a challenge too good to pass up

The day before our trek, we decided to explore the area around the eco-lodge — and warm up our legs for Fansi- pan — so we set out for the nearby Red Hmong village The Red Hmong are one of eight ethnic minority groups in the region With an entourage of six local women, we descended through rolling rice paddies that extended to the horizon The harvest was due to commence

in the coming month and the tall stalks of rice glowed bright green and gold in the midday sun Climbing up to a village,

we were welcomed by barking dogs and screaming children en- joying their last days of summer freedom before the start of the new school year the following week The village was a hive of activity At the school, a group

of girls were rehearsing a dance for the commencement assem- bly, while a women’s group was meeting to discuss the class- room repainting, which was currently underway outside

That evening from our hotel balcony we watched as darkness engulfed the valley and small lights flickered throughout the hills like distant fireflies The cool, clean air was

a relief after the heat and noise

of Hanoi, and we watched

in peaceful silence as distant lightning bounced off the mountainous horizon

We awoke early the next

morning to flashes of lightning cutting through the foggy darkness Last night’s storm was suddenly not so distant As rain pounded on the balcony

we hastily tried to contact the tour agency, assuming our Fansipan trek would be cancelled due to the weather

No such luck — we had paid and so we would go

As the wet grey dawn broke over the mountains

we arrived at the start of the trail Although fog remained low, the rain had slowed to

a heavy drizzle Pulling on raincoats, we headed into the damp forest, our guide silently leading the way towards the mountain Once we’d resigned ourselves to wet feet, the first third of the walk was fairly easy Despite the cautions against doing the trek in a

Starting off from the comforts of a Vietnamese eco-lodge,

Katie Jacobs ignores the advice of locals and decides to

tackle the tallest mountain in Indochina in one day.

day, it wasn’t until we reached

the first real hill, with steep

slippery boulders and mud

shoots rising above us, that we

realised the challenge we had

set ourselves

Stopping regularly to catch

our breath, we were briefly

rewarded with clear views The

green mountains, previously

invisible below, emerged

through the grey clouds that

blanketed the valley Dense

forest shielded any signs of

human habitation from this

height As the only hikers on

the path, we experienced a

rare moment of solitude In the

final hour before reaching the

top, our steady pace slowed

dramatically As we hauled

ourselves up steep rocky slides

we had to pause every minute,

out of breath, legs burning and

hearts thumping The frequent

rain, endless mud, slippery boulders, hidden tree roots, and the race against sunset made the challenging walk even harder But we reached the summit in five hours

Scrambling to the top we were greeted by dense fog and a woman selling canned soda

Seemingly oblivious to the terrain, she was not only in full control of her breathing, but also spotless, despite the rain and mud

The feeling of light relief

as we began the long descent down was short-lived The slippery boulders and small streams we had fought our way

up only minutes before were

a whole different challenge on the way down For the next few hours we spent the majority of our time crouched low, blindly grasping for whatever we could

get hold of Eleven hours after

we started, we emerged back onto the road, tired and muddy but proud we had summited the mountain in one day

Despite the alluring challenge of conquering Fansipan, the construction

of a tram linking Sapa to the mountain's peak began last month, which could reduce it to another roadside attraction.

Back at the lodge that

evening I had to coax my legs to walk to dinner With

a sense of accomplishment

we raised our wine glasses

in triumph before falling into

a deep blissful sleep half an hour later

Our final day at Topas was spent with as little movement

as possible: reading on the balcony, drinking coffee and playing a slow game of pétanque Feeling refreshed,

we were ready for the long train journey home to Hanoi, away from the land of endless mountains and quiet, fresh air.

A guide is required to climb Mt Fansipan and all tour operators

in Sapa (and many in Hanoi) can arrange one to three day treks depending on your preference Topas Eco-lodge is located 45 minutes outside of Sapa Visit topasecolodge.com for details

The frequent rain, endless mud, slippery boulders, hidden tree roots, and the race against sunset made the challenging walk even harder.

Ancient monuments enveloped

in giant strangler fig trees scatter a sub-tropical forest alive with the sounds of birds and insects This was once the city of Isanapura — the capital

of the Kingdom of Chenla, which thrived under the reign

of the 7th-century monarch Isanavarman I.

Although Chenla’s precise history and makeup is still a subject for scholarly debate,

it is thought to have gained independence from the ancient Kingdom of Funan in 550AD, absorbing neighbour- ing territories during a period

of expansion before breaking

up into separate states in the 8th century.

Today, despite the rise and fall of several kingdoms and capitals since, many of its 7th- and 8th-century temples that pre-date Angkor by hundreds

of years remain at Sambor Prei Kuk, around 40 kilometres from Kampong Thom town.

Of the 100 temples that once dotted the area around

50 remain recognisable today, grouped together in three main areas They may lack the grandeur or scale of Angkor Wat or Preah Khan in Siem Reap, but this is possibly one

of the most atmospheric temple complexes in Cambodia

The square towers built in sandstone are similar to sites dating back to early Angkor, but other octagonal brick temples are, stylistically, very

different These structures reveal artistic and architectural influences that originated in India combined with something uniquely Khmer — a mixture

of styles that reached its apex with Angkor Wat.

Many still have original reliefs clinging to exterior walls and incredible brickwork remains where such stucco has disappeared Figures peer down from ornate false windows and stone lions guard colossal doorways

Inside the temples, gigantic

yonis (pedestals that symbolise

female genitalia) hint at the

sizeable lingas (phallic symbols

representing the Hindu god Shiva) that were once the focus

of worship here

The towers are in remarkable condition considering their age, the forest setting and the 20th- century civil war during which some temples sustained damage Indeed, the École Française d'Extrême-Orient first cleared the site in the 1960s, but factional fighting meant that it was closed off to visitors until 1998

A team from Waseda University in Japan is now working alongside the Ministry

of Culture on restoration projects, and the temples are included on a tentative list

of suitable sites for future inclusion on UNESCO's World Heritage List The Sambor Prei Kuk Conservation and

Joanna Wolfarth visits Cambodia’s lesser-known

temple site of Sambor Prei Kuk in Kampong Thom province to discover a forest full of pre-Angkorian

wonders Photography by Phil Butterworth.

Temple

Hideaway