Sfl x u l t hien ciia cac quan ca phe tfl nda sau the ky 17 da dfla ra mgt kieu nha hang khdng chi n h l m cung d p dd an thflc ud'ng ma cdn de mgi ngfldi trong cong ddng giao tiep vdi n
Trang 1Xa W hot t\)t m Xa hoi hoc so 2 (106), 2009 95
BA HIEN Tl/ONG TU" H U 6 N G NHIN XA H O I HOC KINH TE
MAI DANG HIEN QUAN
I Ud DAU
Toan c l u boa t i e ddng len h l u nhfl mgi khia canh cua ddi sd'ng d h l u bet cac qudc gia, tfl kinh te, xa hgi den van hoa, sfl trao ddi rgng rai bang boa, dich vu va ca cac y tfldng Bai viet nay d i cap tdi viec nghien cflu ddng thai cung - c l u va tac ddng cua toan d u boa len ba hien tfldng xa bgi dfldc chu y d My la: 1 Cac nha bang dac san theo phong each, 2 Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh ding, 3 Du lich tinb due Nhflng phan tich dfldc dat ra tfl hfldng nhin xa hgi hgc kinh te
II VAI NET VE BOI CANH LICH SU"
CIc nha hang dac san theo phong cach^ ra ddi va phat trien g i n liin vdi viec thfldng mai boa thu vui an ud'ng Sfl x u l t hien ciia cac quan ca phe tfl nda sau the ky
17 da dfla ra mgt kieu nha hang khdng chi n h l m cung d p dd an thflc ud'ng ma cdn
de mgi ngfldi trong cong ddng giao tiep vdi nhau (Beardswortb, Bryman, 230) Sau nay, dd an ngoai phd' xuat bien nhfl d va khoai tay ran d nfldc Anh dfldc ban vdi gia hdp vdi tui tien cua ddng dao ngfldi tieu dflng Den nfla sau the ky 19, cflng vdi qua trinh cdng nghiep hoa d My, nhu clu cd cac mdn an nhanh, phong phfl de phuc vu cong nhan tai khu vflc dd thi dfldc dat ra va hang loat cac nha bang phuc vu bfla trfla, bfla to'i va cac bfla an lien hoan ra ddi Tfl dd, an tdi ben ngoai da trd thanh mgt boat ddng dac trflng, bdi d day cac thflc khach cd nhieu Ifla chgn Cac nha hang nay
cd hang ngan mdn an da dang che bien tfl mdn cd ban ban d l u (Pillsbury 1990, 225)
Dd cd t h i la nhflng nha hang d l u tien cd chflc nang cung d p mgt hinh thflc mdi cua cac bfla an tdi ben ngoai sau khi chuyen tfl cac nha hang thdng thfldng thanh nhflng nha hang dac san theo phong d c h
Viec sii dung ca phe va d c quIn ca phe cung cd lich sdf rieng Nhiiu nam sau
khi cac nfldc thudc dia gianh dfldc dgc lap, d c "mlu qudc" v l n gifl quyen kiem seat nganh cdng nghiep ca phe dfla tren d c loai ca phe lay tfl cac thudc dia cfl Cac nfldc san x u l t ca phe tiep tuc xuat khau ca phe cho cac nfldc tieu dflng, y het nhfl khi bg
v l n cdn la thuoc dia, (Linton et al 227) Do thieu cd sd ha t i n g va viec dgc quyin
d My, CO nhflng nha hang dSc san theo phong each Y, phong each Trung Quoc Tai day
khong chi do an, thflc uong dfldc che bien theo phong each Y hoae Trung Quoc ma each bai tri nha hang, trang phuc, khuon ph6p giao tie'p cua ngfldi phuc vu cung mang dam n6t Y hoae
Trung Qudc Nha bing dSc san theo phong each cung eo the la nhflng nha an nhanh, &n tu
ebon hoae an nhieu mon diJdc che bien tfl mot loai thflc pham (hai san, thit de, thit Idn )
Trang 2trong phan phdi san pham, cac nfldc san xuat ca phe g i n nhfl khdng the nang cae gia tri san pham ciia minh Cd qua nhieu khau trung gian nhfl moi gidi ban xfl, x u l t khau, nhap khau, che bien, rang va ca chii d l t de ca phe tfl d c n h a san xuat nhd den tay ngfldi tieu dflng Diiu nay giai thich vi sao mdt chu trang trai ca phe nhd chi nhan dfldc chfla d l y 4 cent trong khi ngfldi tieu dflng phai bd ra 3 USD cho mgt tich
ca phe moca tai Starbuks mdi budi sang D l y chinh la nguyen n h a n dan den sfl ra ddi cua Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang
Con cd sd lich sd va van hoa cua hien tfldng mai dam la gi? Tai Amsterdam, hien tfldng mai dam cd lich sii lau ddi (Wonders, Michalowski, 553) Mai dam va sd dung ma tuy khong phai la cac v l n de tdi pham, vi chinh phu Ha Lan cd truyin thd'ng tfl do ve mat chinh tri va chap n h a n ve mat xa hgi "Luat phap hiem khi dfldc
sd dung de kiem soat cac van d i xa hgi nhfl hien tfldng mai dam, vi khd cd the dat dfldc sfl thoa hiep xung quanh cac v l n de dao dflc cdn nhieu t r a n h cai." (Brants, 1998) KhIc vdi Amsterdam, Habana khdng cd lich sii chap n h a n nan mai dam Ngfldi ta coi mai dam la "soc", vi chflng ta (nhflng ngfldi Cuba) khong quen vdi viec tha'y mgt xa hgi cd gai diem tren dfldng phd" (Wonders, Michalovski: 562) Tuy nhien, Habana da chflng kien thflc te p h I t trien ciia du lich tinh due sau sfl sup dd ciia Lien
Xd va viec hdp phap h o i ddng do la My Tai Habana, du lich tinh due ngay nay da phd bien tdi mflc mgt g l i diem dang kiem dfldc nhieu t i i n hdn mgt bac sy
III DONG THAI CUNG - CAU
Cac nha hang dac san theo phong each la sfl minh hoa thu vi cua cd che cung
-c l u bien dai Ngay nay, vi -con ngfldi sd'ng trong mdt xa hgi hdi ha va d l y fl-c -chi^, ngfldi ta den nha hang khdng chi vi dd an, thflc ud'ng Viec di an d ngoai cflng la each
de tim kiem mgt ndi cho phep hg tam rdi "sfl te n h a t va vo nghia cua cugc sd'ng hang ngay"(Bryman, 1995,176) Hg cung chd ddi c h i t Ifldng phuc vu td't Cac nha hang dac san theo phong each la ndi d i p flng nhu d u dd Trong xa hgi hien dai, thflc an mang mgt y nghia xa hgi Idn hdn nhfl nd vd'n cd An ud'ng gid day khdng chi de lap dly cai
da day trd'ng rdng, ma cdn de thoa man thi hieu am thflc va thfl gian Loai nha bang dac san theo phong d c h cung d p mgt khung d n h vdi muc dich thu hut k h i c h hang den nha hang de tan hfldng bfla to'i va vdi muc dich cuo'i cflng la sinh ldi cang nhiiu cang td't Phong d c h dac san hoa nha hang la mgt dang phan hoa cd the mang lai y nghia xa hdn d c dac tinh cua thflc an thdng thfldng Phong d c h hoa nha hang dfldc chip nhan de lam mgt phfldng sIch marketing; nd theo sau ky t h u a t kinh doanh cd ban cua sfl hdp ly hoa, chuan mflc h o i , nd n h l m vao tinh hieu qua, sfl dac quyin de quang cao va budn b i n
Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang cung la nhflng vi du rd net cua ddng
t h i i cung - d u Khi gia ca phe giam den mflc khung hoang nhfl vao nam 1990, cac chu trang trai phai giam dien tich trdng ca phe de tranh thua Id Thi trfldng ca phe mat can b l n g nghiem trgng Tuy nhien, d c nha boat ddng tich cflc nhfl d Global
Trang 3Mai Ddng Hien Qudn 97
Exchange va Oxfam da cd g l n g de giai quyet mat cung va mat d u cua thi trfldng Vdi viec ap dung nhflng chinh sach dam bao gia san, cho ndng dan vay vdn va day manh mdi quan he lau dai gifla cung va d u , phong trao nay da khich le nhflng chu trang trai nhd trdng ca phe, gifl cho thi trfldng d mflc quan binh Ngfldi ta cd the coi nhflng phong trao kieu dd mang tinh nhan dao t h u l n tuy, song khong chi nhfl vay, trong thflc te nhflng phong trao nay lai cd y nghia kinh te r l t Idn
Neu khdng cd sfl khich le nay, viec giam cung se day gia len cao va hau qua la sflc mua ca phe giam xud'ng Diiu nay d i n tdi viec lam tang sang kien cua ngfldi tieu dung tim den nhflng san pham khac hoac san pham thay the ca phe Bdi vay, Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang khdng chi cd ich cho ndng dan ma cdn co ich cho ca ngfldi tieu dflng Mdi khi ban nham nhi mgt tach ca phe thfldng mai binh ding va cam thay de chiu vi minh da lam mgt diiu td't cho ndng dan ngheo thi hay dflng quen
r i n g ban cung dang giup ban than minh Qua trinh nay dfldc md ta chinh xac nhfl sau: "canh tay san xuat vfldn tdi viec kiem seat thi trfldng va xa hdn nfla viec dieu chinh tinh chat ciia thi trfldng va do dfldc hanh vi xa hgi cua nhflng ai nd phuc vu" (Michalovski :69)
Nhfl da ndi d tren, trong khi muc dich ciia cac nha hang theo phdng each la dat ldi nhuan tdi da b l n g d c h tan dung triet de mgi phfldng sach marketing, thi muc dich cua Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang khdng chi la thu ldi tflc ma cdn nhlm thuc day ngfldi tieu dung phan anh cac gia tri xa hgi va dao dflc d i n den viec hg thay ddi hanh vi tieu dflng Vi vEiy nd gio'ng vdi mgt chien dich giao due hdn la mgt cd glng marketing Theo dinh nghia cua Kotler va Amstrong (Kotler va Amstrong Group 2002) dfla ra "marketing khong chi la nghe thuat tim tdi cac each khdn kb^o n h l t de phan phdi san pham ma cdn la nghe thuat tao ra nhflng gia tri dich thflc cua ngfldi tieu dflng" Tuy nhien, nhflng pheng trao nay cflng cd the dfldc coi la cac phfldng phap marketing thanh cdng vi chung thu hflt dfldc sfl chfl y tfl truyin thdng - cac nha cung cap thong tin manh me nha't Bdi vay, ta cd the k h l n g dinh r i n g phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang da day manh viec tieu thu ca phe mgt each gian tiep
Dong thai cung - d u trong trfldng hdp mai dam hen quan chat che den ddng ngfldi xuyen qudc gia ngay cang tang d hai dang chinh : du lich va nhap cfl Khi nhap cfl vao mdi trfldng mdi, dan nhap cfl phai dd'i mat vdi nan that nghiep Cflng vdi ne la
sfl nH hod lao dong nhap cfl Vi vay, trong nhiiu trfldng hdp, mai dam trd thanh Ifla
chgn tdt n h l t , ddi khi la duy n h l t dd'i vdi phu nfl d i so'ng sdt va de cd thu nhap Phan tich hien tfldng du lich tinh due cung d n phai quan sat d hanh vi mua dam Kieu hanh vi nay dfldc biet den nhfl khia canh clu Nhu c l u cua cac khach hang dan ong
cd nhiiu t i i n da anh hfldng Idn den dich vu giai tri, gdm ca du lich tinh due Sfl tfldng tac kinh te gifla cung va c l u trong du lich tinh due cd t h i dfldc md ta ddn gian nhfl sau: nhu d u cua dan dng lam cho viec tao ra dich vu tren than xlc phu nfl trd thanh hien thflc
Trang 4Ta cd the t h l y sfl gidng n h a u v i ddng cd va dfldng hfldng tfl gdc do c l u trong trfldng hdp du lich tinh due va d c nha hang dac san theo phong d c h Ngfldi tieu dflng sLf dung cIc dich vu nay de thoat khdi cugc sd'ng ddn dieu h a n g ngay Dich vu mai dam cho phep khach mua dam giai t h o l t khdi nhflng r a n g huge cua gia dinh hg
de lam mgt cugc phieu Iflu ngoai lai cd kha nang thoa man hg Cac nha hang dac san theo phong d c h cung d p cho nhflng ngfldi theo chii nghia t h o l t li thflc te nhflng bfla tdi trong khung canh d i chiu Nhfl vay la hanh vi tinh due va h a n h vi tieu dflng thflc pham xua't p h I t tfl phia d u da tao nen cac tfldng t i e vdi phia cung, mang den ldi nhuan cho phia cung Trong ca hai trfldng hdp l y nhflng t r a n g thai thoat li thflc te
da dfldc sii dung de ldi keo cang nhieu khach hang cang td't n h a m tang ldi nhuan Chu nghia tieu thu la mgt dang chu nghia thoat li thflc te dfldc xa hgi cha'p nhan, no khdng gio'ng vdi viec sii dung ma tuy hoac rfldu de giai thoat, Phai chang cugc sd'ng trong xa hgi hien dai q u i flc che va buy hoai den mflc cd nhieu ngfldi nay sinh nhu
d u thoat li thflc te, dan den sfl t h a n h cdng cua d c dich vu dfla tren y tfldng cua chu nghia thoat li thflc te? Va neu chu nghia tieu dflng la met dang giai thdat dfldc xa bgi chap nhan khong dii li do tdn tai thi ngfldi ta cd quay lai vdi d c hinh thflc thoat li khdng dfldc xa hgi chap nhan chang han nhfl ma tuy va rfldu khdng?
IV TAC D O N G CUA TOAN CAU HOA
Ta cd the tha'y toan d u boa cd tac ddng Idn nhfl the nao len ca ba trfldng hdp dfldc coi la do'i tfldng phan tich tren day nhflng theo nhflng each khac nhau Du lich tinh due la van d i kha li thu de nghien cflu tfl quan diem toan d u h o i Gai mai dam khdng ban sflc lao ddng, ma bg ban than the minh nhfl mgt thfl hang h o i , de tao ra thu nhap dfldi sflc ep va nhu d u manh me cua toan d u boa Nghien cflu van d i nay cho thay d c the lflc toan d u boa cd the tao nen sflc ep va dinh hfldng lai d c quan he kinh te va ca d c chuan mflc xa hgi tai cac dia phfldng, vfldt qua ca rao can cua y thflc
be Cac tac gia da cong nhan r i n g mai dam khdng phai la van de cua mgt nfldc rieng
le va ngfldi ta khdng t h i chi len an gli diem vi hg b i n dam Ma, vdi quan diem cd ban hdn, ngfldi ta phai len an cac the lflc toan d u , vi chflng lien quan chat che den dac diem cua du lich tinh due
Toan d u hoa cflng cd tac dong to Idn len qua trinh san xua't va phan pho'i ca phe Cau chuyen ca phe khdng phai la cau chuyen duy nhat Cd the thay d c vi du khac tfldng tfl: Viet Nam la nfldc xua't khau hat dieu Idn thfl nha't, xuat k h I u gao Idn thfl hai va x u l t khau che Idn thfl nam tren the gidi nhflng t h u nhap ciia ngfldi Viet tfl xua't khau van chfla the d i thien d i n g ke mflc so'ng cua hg, p h l n Idn bg phan ndng dan v l n sd'ng d mflc ngheo; Venezuela v l n phai t r a n h da'u ve tai chinh cho dfl
hg cd mgt Ifldng Idn d l u dfl trfl Va nhan dan d mgt so' nfldc thudc the gidi thfl ba, tai chau Phi van phai sd'ng dfldi mflc trung binh cho dfl hg la nhflng nha cung d p kim cfldng va d c tai nguyen quy hiem khac Toan c l u boa la nguyen nhan d i n den nghich canh nay Ta cd the tha'y Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh d i n g la d n thiet, nhflng khdng phai la cd ban nhat Cung d p cd sd ha t i n g va cac phfldng tien
Trang 5Mai Ddng Hien Qudn 99
san x u l t hien dai hdn chd nhflng nfldc ngheo de hg cd the canh tranh vdi cac nfldc
giau, cho dfl dieu nay r l t khd, nhflng lai la phfldng each cd ban hdn Ddi vdi cau bdi:
sau Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh ding, lieu nhflng phong trao khac nhfl
thfldng mai binh d i n g v i lua gao, v i ch6, hay v i kim cfldng cd the xuat hien nfla
khong? Cau tra ldi cd le la khdng •
Cflng vdi d c bien ddi kinh te, sfl toan c l u boa cung d i n den nhflng bien ddi ve
van hoa d h l u k h l p cac nfldc Am thflc la mgt yeu td quan trgng trong dinh nghia
mdi n i n van hoa Britanica nhan dinh: "am thflc la vat mang van boa lau ddi nha't
tren toan d u " do vay, thdng qua I m thflc de nghien cflu tac dong cua toan d u boa
ddi vdi van boa la r a t hflu ich Bai viet cua Beardswortb va Bryman trinh bay mgt
khai niem thfl vi: sfl "McDonald hod" McDonald thoat d l u dfldc thiet ke kbdng phai
la nha hang dac san, tuy nhien, vi no qua phd bien nen hien nay nd dfldc xa hgi cdi
nhfl vay Ta cd the sii dung mang Ifldi dd an McDonald nhfl mgt trfldng hdp dien hinh
de nghien cflu tac ddng cua toan c l u hoa len cac nha hang dac san theo phong each
Giao sfl Ritzer tfl dai hgc Maryland k h l n g dinh "Net dac biet cua Mc Donald,
theo nghia nao do, da trd thanh vi du diin hinh va hiin nhien cua sfl hdp ly trong xa
hgi hien dai" (Ritzer: 142) Mgt trong nhflng h do khien McDonald cd the dflng nen binh
anh nhfl vay la sfl dac quyin tfl chinh sach hanh trfldng anh hfldng cua no ra nfldc
ngoai - bfldc khdi d l u Cd ban cua toan clu boi Qua trinh toan c l u boa chic chan da ho
trd mang Ifldi dd an McDonald d sfl nd'i tieng l l n kha nang thu nhap Trfldc kbi dfla
McDonald vfldt qua bien gidi, dd an nhanh h l u nhfl chfla dfldc biet den McDonald la
cdng ty d l u tien d glng x u l t k h I u tinh yeu cua nfldc My dd'i vdi dd an nhanh va lam
thay ddi ca thdi quen an ud'ng cua cac qudc gia khac" (Ritzer, 147)
Sfl toan c l u hoa van boa dd an nhanh cflng chflng td kiiu thflc p h l m nay dflgc
Ua thich tai d c qudc gia nd ddn va dan chflng d dd hfldng flng chflng nhfl the nao Td
China Pdst cho r i n g : "Khi van boa xe hdi cua My lan ra nfldc ngdai, thi hamburger
theo sau McDonald da md cda hang tai 119 qudc gia va phuc vu 52 tri^u ngUdi hang
ngay" va "Ldi mdi goi k i i u My" dfldng nhfl da xuyen qua mgi bien gidi Khi McDonald
md nha hang d l u tien tai Kuwait vao nam 1994, 15 000 ngfldi da xep hang thanh
mot ddng dai 7 dam Kdt qua nghien cflu cflng cho t h l y viec dfla mang Ifldi do an
nhanh nhfl McDonald vao cac qudc gia da van h o i cdn Idn hdn nhieu Hamburge
dfldc cdng n h a n trong khi nhflng thay ddi tfl phia khac l,i bi coi la de d o , loi song
d a ' d t a ! n h i i u thd ky Khdng t h i xem thfldng mdt sfl t h a t la "McDonald cung c^.p
dd an re ca phe ngon va sfl giai tri thoai mai cho cac ban tre, cung can ke den mgt
t sa ad cd t h i ^L cho d c bac p h huynh y n tam hdn v tinh - n d^n^ ^ - ^ g
cua con cai hg K h l p thd gidi, b i i u tfldng ngay cang ndi tieng nay cua n.dc My (du
ban thich hay khdng) dang khuydn khich mgt cugc c n h tranh ^^^[^J^'^ canh t r a n h ma, trdng n h i i u trfldng hdp, dan den vigc cai thign ^ ' ^ ^ ^
sinh thflc p h l m va ca d c quan he giad tidp Mgt sd ngfldi khdng thich y tfldng tdan
u h o T n d ' c h u n g va coi McDonald nhfl mdt b i i u tfldng cua y tfldng nay, b u qua
Trang 6la hg do ldi cho toan cau hoa Van de dat r a la: sfl toan d u hoa ciia McDonald cd
anh hfldng tich cflc hay tieu cflc len d c nen van h o i khac n h a u d nhieu quo'c gia?
Ngoai van hoa ra, mgt v l n de nfla phai dfldc tinh den la "Vdi svf ndi tieng cua
McDonald, cac n h a hang ban dia - it ndi tieng hdn va c h i c c h i n la it tiem lflc kinh
te hdn McDonald - cd hi pha san khdng? C i n nhflng nghien cflu Idn hdn de tra ldi
cac cau hdi nay Pha san thi chfla ban, nhflng canh t r a n h se ra't khdc liet bdi quy
luat cua thi trfldng la "cl Idn nud't c l be"
• ' i- ^ : -• ' ;•• i-rii
';if.-Phan tich trfldng hdp cac nha hang dac san theo phong each, du lich tinh due va
Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang cho thay ro cac tfldng tac xa hdi chi phdi
ddng thai cung - c l u nhfl la yeu to' cd ban nhat cua quan he kinh te Toan c l u boa da
tac ddng den ba trfldng hdp ndi tren khdng chi d chiiu canh kinh te ma cdn d chiiu
canh xa hgi, van hoa
Cd the dan ra hai nhan dinh quan trgng thay cho ldi k e t : Trong niia dau the ky
XX, Milton Friedman, nha kinh te hgc ndi tieng dfldc giai Nobel, da dfla ra mgt hgc
thuyet cd anh hfldng Idn, trong dd ndi r i n g thfldng mai tfl do lam ldi cho ca Cung l l n
C l u cua n i n kinh te Bdi vay nhflng ngfldi iing hg toan d u hoa da ly luan rang sfl
toan c l u boa ma y tfldng chu dao la tfl do thfldng mai, se lam ldi Idn cho ca hai phia
cung va clu, vi vay nd dang dfldc ung bg ,, Tuy nhien, nhflng nghien cflu mdi day v i toan d u h o i lai nha'n manh r i n g sfl
toan d u boa gay ra vd so' nhflng van d i dang quan tam, ndi bat la v i b i t binh
dang Joseph Stiglitz, mgt nha kinh te hgc cflng dfldc giai Nobel, cho r i n g d c quy
t i c dieu hanh sfl toan d u boa iing hg cac nfldc p h I t trien, trong khi cac nfldc dang
phat trien lai lun sau vao ngheo khd Hdn nfla, d c nfldc dang p h a t trien bi toan clu
boa kiem soat va nhflng mat ban che ciia qua trinh dd cd the huy hoai nghiem
trgng n i n dan chu tai cac nfldc nay Ngoai ra, d c nfldc dang p h a t trien vay mgt sd
vdn Idn tfl d c nfldc khac va Ngan hang the gidi thfldng huge hg phai rdi bd ldi ich tfl
nen dan chu cua minh do nhflng diiu kien rang huge g i n lien vdi viec tra nd Vi
nhflng gi dfldc coi la "thfldng mai cdng blng", quan diem cua Stiglitz la: thoat dlu,
thi trfldng dfldc md cda vdi hy vgng giup dd n i n kinh te; tuy nhien, q u y i n ldi gifla
d c nfldc phat trien va d c nfldc dang phat trien da bi bop meo, va nhflng hdp ddng
thfldng mai sau cflng thflc chat da dat cac nfldc ngheo nha't vao tinh the cdn te hdn
ca khi bat dau (Stiglitz :147) j :,•, hpi^s'
Bflc tranh toan d u hoa vdi nhflng mang dam hai mau sang to'i la nhfl vay Nd
d n dfldc d c nha hoach dinh chinh sach nhan thflc de d i xuat cac giai phap kinh te,
xa hgi, van hoa hfldng vao viec md rgng thi trfldng va k h I c phuc d c bat binh d i n g
tren binh dien quo'c gia va hdp t i e quo'c te./
Trang 7Mai Ddng Hiin Qudn 101
Tai lieu trich dan va t h a m khao
1 Breadsworth, Alan and Bryman,Alan: Late modernity and the dynamics of
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